Smith And Wesson Forums banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Anyone have any issues with a 14lb rebound spring?

I feel like the reduced weight does wonders for single action and double action, however the trigger feels like it's slow to get back into the proper location on the follow up shot.

Is this normal? Anyone else experience this?

It's currently affecting my 629 and 625.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you.

Moe

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,955 Posts
Hey Moe,

I usually just take one (or a hair more) coil off the Factory Spring, making sure to polish the rebound slide inside and out.

Then, you will want to stone the mainspring....one direction only....(this "aligns" the molecules/imparts eddy current? in the spring, ensuring the spring bends over its whole length, not kinks)

Later, Mark
 
  • Like
Reactions: Injunbro

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Awesome advice.

I noticed my set spring was not all the way screwed into the slot for the mainspring /rib spring slot.

What's the proper seating placement? All the way down?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,452 Posts
Most Performance Center guns that I work on come with a power rib mainspring. Springs do not an action job make! Careful stoning of the correct parts in the correct places is the most important part of the job. Also lapping the rebound slide and frame does wonders for trigger reset. I use a 13# spring most often with excellent results. Also a 10-32 X 1/2" allen set screw with thread lock will give you infinite adjustment of the mainspring for reliable ignition in S/A and D/A modes. Mcmaster.com has the set screws. The power rib spring usually requires a longer strain screw due to the rib.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
See now that's some good advice. I'll make sure to grab one at the shop tomorrow and give it a shot.

It's disappointing that no real work is done to a PC trigger.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I've been dry firing my 629 for a while and with my Wilson Combat springs installed I screwed my set screw all the way down and I can achieve 2lb sa and 8m5 da. I am not complaining but before sinking it all the way the da was 6.5 and it seemed like the sync was off with the cylinder and hammer.



Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,955 Posts
  • Like
Reactions: series guy

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
My trigger stop doesn't do anything on my 625.

I can see light all around it. Why even put one on if it doesn't do anything

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,808 Posts
I have to say that my 460 Performance Center's trigger is lighter and more crisp than my dad's 44 RM he gave me before he died and he had the trigger professionally done. In fact anyone I let shoot the 460 is amazed at how smooth it is with an extremely clean break and no let off whatsoever. Point pull and bang. The initial pull is less that the 44RM as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Then, you will want to stone the mainspring....one direction only....(this "aligns" the molecules/imparts eddy current? in the spring, ensuring the spring bends over its whole length, not kinks)
""aligns" the molecules..."? When I was studying metallurgy in college, the instructor told us that metals [edit: Sic, "steels"] do not form "molecules", but form "space lattices" instead. Are you saying that steel in the form of Ferrite, Austinite, and Martensite is molecules and not space lattices?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,955 Posts
""aligns" the molecules..."? When I was studying metallurgy in college, the instructor told us that metals do not form "molecules", but form "space lattices" instead. Are you saying that steel in the form of Ferrite, Austinite, and Martensite is molecules and not space lattices?
Hey D,

Try it yourself.

Take and "feel" the DA pull of a revolver. (weigh it/scale it...etc)

Make no other changes, but STONE the mainspring......one direction only (as Mark says, you don't do this on a "ribbed" spring).... install the spring, and try out the DA. Much smoother, even if the "weight of pull" is the same.

Don't ask me why this works so well....(I think it instills an "eddy current' in the spring? )

Thank you for your input.

Later, Mark
 
  • Like
Reactions: Injunbro

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,248 Posts
Even the finest stone is still microscopically going to leave the equivalent of "scratches" as it abrades away molecules of metal in the lattice.

If your objective is to reduce friction between two stoned metal surfaces (finely polished at that), would you prefer them to have microscopic ridges in parallel or at crossed angles?

This article discusses friction between metals and has some photo micrographs of polished steel:

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/225919591_Influence_of_roughness_parameters_and_surface_texture_on_friction_during_sliding_of_pure_lead_over_080_M40_steel

The photos show unidirectional polishing, random direction polishing and 8 way polishing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Injunbro

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Make no other changes, but STONE the mainspring......one direction only (as Mark says, you don't do this on a "ribbed" spring).... install the spring, and try out the DA. Much smoother, even if the "weight of pull" is the same.
Weight of pull can be measured with a trigger gauge. However for "smoothness" there is no equivalent tool (or at least not available to most nonscientists). So, that begs the question: How can one be assured that the smoothness is increased rather than the possibly incorrect assumption that it has been increased because one has done "something" to the mainspring.?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,955 Posts
Weight of pull can be measured with a trigger gauge. However for "smoothness" there is no equivalent tool (or at least not available to most nonscientists). So, that begs the question: How can one be assured that the smoothness is increased rather than the possibly incorrect assumption that it has been increased because one has done "something" to the mainspring.?
Hey D,

No arguments..... (not on FRIDAY!) :D

Challenge: Dry fire a particular revolver (enough so that you KNOW what it "feels" like).

Remove mainspring, and lightly stone it, as previously described, ONE DIRECTION ONLY!

Make no other changes.

Put the revolver back together.

Dry fire it.

It will have a much better/smoother feel. (a stock spring may have a "stacking" sensation....which is corrected/mitigated? by stoning)

Have a great week end.

Later, Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,705 Posts
Anyone have any issues with a 14lb rebound spring?

I feel like the reduced weight does wonders for single action and double action, however the trigger feels like it's slow to get back into the proper location on the follow up shot.

Is this normal? Anyone else experience this?

It's currently affecting my 629 and 625.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you.

Moe

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
You have probably done this already and I wont know the right terminology but .. when I installed the 14# Trigger return spring I was sure to get cleaner in the channel that the spring lives in and then with the appropriate size brass brush mounted in a hand drill I gave it a few whirls. Then when I cleaned up with some patches .. the nastiness that came out of there!!

I had grittiness in a Ruger GP. It was so awful that if you let the trigger out slowly you could hear it. I thought was everything under the sun and then finally did the same thing to the ruger .. Same result .. smooth as silk. One small drop of oil on the spring when I reinserted it and its heaven.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,200 Posts
It always boggles my mind when people try to get smooth, glassy trigger pulls by swapping springs... polish the bearing surfaces of the internals where the friction is (stay away from the sear) & 99% of the time the factory spring is fine as is. Usually spring replacement, loosening mainspring adjustment screw or cutting results in light strikes, slow trigger reset or other problems. The factory springs are not too strong, the design engineers aren't stupid.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,490 Posts
Just realized this thread is from June.

The factory rebound spring is 18# and yes the mainspring screw is supposed to be screwed all the way in! It is not a "adjustable spring "trigger job"

Dropping down to 14# will tend to make the return poor. Try a 16# if you must.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top