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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have inheirated a S&W .38 special Victory Model. It doesn't have the lanyard though. It is a 2" barrel and I can't find much on the 2" barrel. I have noticed that there is a lot of discussion about the 4" barrel, but is there anyone who can tell me a little more on the 2" barrel. Also I need a set of grips for it so if you know where I can find some please let me know. I am in upstate South Carolina if anyone from around here reads this and can get me some let me know.

Thanks
Ryan
 

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Hello Crcox and welcome to the forum

Although the 2" barrel was scarce, there were a few manufactured. However, after the war it was fairly common for the old Victory Models to get "Chopped" and I'll just bet it is more likely that you have a revolver that has been modified, than a very uncommon 2" model.

If you'll post some pictures and try to get a good photo showing the relationship of the front sight, the barrel printing and the frame, maybe we'll be able to distinguish if it's been modified.

You mention that it doesn't have a lanyard ring......does it have the hole for one?

How about proof stamps?

More info and pictures is necessary for us to assist you further.

Best Regards,

Geezer
 

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Cr,

Welcome to the finest forum exstant.
As usual. I concur with everything Geeze has stated. One other question, though, Is it a .38 S&W or a .38 Special?

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
All I can tell you for sure is that I shoot .38special rounds and that is is the smoothest fireing gun I have EVER shot. I have shot a lot of guns. It was my grandfathers gun and the first gun I ever shot so no matter what you tell me it isn't going any where I just like knowing some of the history behind it and if it need a little insurance on it.

Ryan
 

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CR,

It's hard to tell from the angle, does it have a forward locking lug for ejector rod support? Give us some shots of both sides of the whole gun, if possible, and sharp close-ups of any proof or other stamping/rollmarks on the gun. There appear to be no caliber markings on the barrel side we can see, but they are usually on the right side. A pic of the bottom of the grip frame would also be helpful.

Thanks,
Mike
 

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It is a chopped Victory Model and worse cut-off behind the forward lock. S&W dropped "free" ejector rods in 1902. The simple odds are that it started out as a .38 S&W and was reamed to accept .38 Specials. The simple test is to try and chamber the latter, or observe your .38 Special cases for bulges.

Any K-frame grip will do IMHO. I would personally consider retirement for a family heirloom in these circumstances.

Sorry to be the bearer, W.
 

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Cr,

I do believe Waidman nailed it.

Mike
 

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Cr,

I do believe Waidman nailed it.

Mike
I agree..............

Still, it's a wonderful heirloom passed down from Grand Dad........and the first gun shot by Crcox............That my friends, make this "Priceless" to the family (even if it's not recommended for current shooting).

I can only speak for myself (I'll bet you all feel similarly), but I just love seeing this stuff, hearing from the current "care takers" and learning from all you experts (and perusing our research material).

Regards All,

Geezer
 

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Crcox, for what its worth the small p above the shield and underneath the barrel stand for proof and were applied at time of manufacture. The crossed scepters etc. by the trigger guard are the Viewer's mark from Birmingham proofhouse. There should be other marks like a crowned BNP (Birmingham Nitro Proof) surviving on the cylinder. This increases the chances the "work" occurred on this side of the water, unless there are very many stampings on the current barrel. It also tends to suggest .38 S&W origin. A note on the forward lock: S&Ws unlike Colt's rotate counter-clockwise tending to push the crane away from the cylinder. I have no doubt this is the "smoothest" S&W you have experienced.

I have my Greatgrandfather's Hermanos Orbea 1926 copy of an M&P. I treasure it, but I am kind of fond of having all my parts intact. It lies in honorable retirement until a nephew will become its custodian.
 

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Any S&W manufactured after 1902 will lock on the front of the ejctor rod, even snubs, whether M&P, Terrier or Chief's Special. The OP pictured the barrel's underside it is a Victory.
 

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I remember well those Victory 38's advertised as converted from 38 S&W to 38 Special and missing the 2nd lockup for the ejector rod. Some were pictured with plastic stag grips. That was back in the days when you could mail order guns. A lot of men's magazines would advertize mail order guns, usually cheap. Like advised by other members probably not a gun to shoot much with 38 specials, in fact I wouldn't shoot it at all personally.
Hank
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You know the funniest thing everyone has said is that none of you would shoot it but in the last year I would bet I have had 50-100 rounds through it. Now knowing what I know I believe I will think twice before I put another round through it. Thank you all for your help I have learned a lot from you guys. I was thinking of modifing the trigger on my S&W Sigma 40 but I am thinking twice about it now. I guess I could just change it and save the orginal parts.
 

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Crcox, what we thrive on is candid yet polite conversation. Today I looked at a pre-war Browning Auto-5 16 Ga. It has a cracked barrel extension, caught in time. The owner had been firing 2 3/4" shells in a 2 9/16" chamber for many years. People are doing all sorts of things. They don't know shotshells are measured before they are crimped They assume a Colt D.A. 38 marked gun is a .38 Special, etc. etc.


We know our limitations (for the most part). We accept that we have a certain strength in our numbers and information to share. Hope you stick with us. Post your Sigma question with the auto guys (ain't me for sure).

Best wishes,
Waidmann
 

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You know the funniest thing everyone has said is that none of you would shoot it but in the last year I would bet I have had 50-100 rounds through it. Now knowing what I know I believe I will think twice before I put another round through it. Thank you all for your help I have learned a lot from you guys. I was thinking of modifing the trigger on my S&W Sigma 40 but I am thinking twice about it now. I guess I could just change it and save the orginal parts.
Ya know Crcox, when I was a kid I had a pair of double action black powder era S&W top breaks (chambered in 38 S&W). I used to pack them both (together) and shot the heck out of them......frequently, with one in each hand........pop-pop, pop-pop.......and fortunately, I never had a problem.

They are both long gone (I no longer have them), but if I had them today, I'd not shoot em.

Life can be funny.......sometimes you get the elevator and sometimes you get......the shaft.

In my case.......in those days, along with my ignorance, I got the elevator.........today, ?????? (who knows?)

Please be careful and exsercise good wisdom Amigo,

Geezer
 
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