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Just took possession of a sw 38 my dad owned for years. Trying to find out a little bit about it. I have pics for anyone interested. Thanks
 

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Welcome to The Forum from the Wiregrass! Post them up.

Guy
 
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Tell us some details. What length barrel measured from front of cylinder to muzzle. Does it have adjustable sights? Open the cylinder and look in the yoke. Does it have a model number?
Let us know and we can tell you more.
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just took possession of a sw 38 my dad owned for years. Trying to find out a little bit about it. I have pics for anyone interested. Thanks
Tell us some details. What length barrel measured from front of cylinder to muzzle. Does it have adjustable sights? Open the cylinder and look in the yoke. Does it have a model number?
Let us know and we can tell you more.
Jim
Thx for responding. It is a 4" barrel. Serial number C 172450. On right side of barrel is 38 S&W SPECIAL CTG. Haven't figured out how to post pics yet.😬
 

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It's a 38 M&P from around 1950 or 51.

Guy
 
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Thx for responding. It is a 4" barrel. Serial number C 172450. On right side of barrel is 38 S&W SPECIAL CTG. Haven't figured out how to post pics yet.😬
 

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The grips on that gun or from the 1910 to 1920 era. Pretty rough! You might want to take those grips off and soak it in automatic transmission fluid for about a week, then scrub off the rust with a copper chore boy pad.

Guy
 

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It's a 38 M&P from around 1950 or 51.

Guy
Thx Guy. Do you think it would be worth it or even wise to get it reblued? No intention of selling it. I can remember this gun always laying on the seat of my dad's truck. I'm 65 now and my recollection goes back to when I was 5, 6 years old.
 

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The poor old thing needs a lot of TLC, but I'm sure it is priceless to you since it goes back to your childhood memories. Dollar-wise, the gun is not worth putting much "outside shop" money into it unless it would be personally worth the expense to you only. Heck, there are a lot of people who will put $3,000 or $4,000 into modifications to a gun that is worth $600 at most!

You can do quite a bit of fixing the finish yourself, carefully, step by step.
 

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The short answer is no. Because you'll never make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. That being said, I refinished my paternal grandfather's 32 regulation police revolver that had been burned in a fire. It's mostly non-functional but I wanted to put it in a shadow box and I wanted it to look good. So I paid the $200 to have it done. What you do with your gun is your decision. But you'll never make a collector gun out of it and it will not increase in value.

Guy
 

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Welcome to the forum with a great inheritance. Would just clean up like Wiregrass Guy said and cherish it. All that character the gun has is from years of service and use. Should shoot very accurately.
 

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Thanks for all the responses. Going to just clean it up and take it to the range. One more question for Guy. Were you serious about soaking it in transmission fluid for a week? Never heard of that. Thx
 

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Soaking it in Transmission fluid is common practice to get all of the gunk, grease and dirt to breakdown inside the gun. ATF is 100% detergent, and will dissolve pretty much everything inside the revolver without affecting the bluing on it. When you're done soaking it, drain as much of the ATF as you can and then use an air gun to blow out all of the ATF and remaining gunk. You can find a few videos on youtube to show you how to get it cleaned up after soaking it. Once its clean and dry you can oil it lightly with a good quality gun oil and you'll be ready to go for a few more years.
Another product you can us is called Kroil, but it's pretty expensive
 
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One more question for Guy. Were you serious about soaking it in transmission fluid for a week? Never heard of that. Thx
ATF is a super fine synthetic oil that substitutes for sperm whale oil originally used that will penetrate through rust and loosen it up. It is a major constituent of Ed's Red Gun Bore Cleaner developed by the NRA many years ago. It is easy to make with household products and cheap compared to equivalent CLP products. After using it, I spray down my guns inside and out with aerosol carb/brake/parts cleaner which will flush debris and oil residue from the gun. Then lube the action with 5 drops of gun oil (Hoppes) through either the hammer or trigger openings and a single drop on the yoke stem and center pin. Ed's Red can also be used as a gun oil. It is suggested that a separate batch leaving off the acetone be used for gun oil. If you decide to make ER and soak the gun in it, get a sealed container so the acetone doesn't evaporate.

BTW, if you didn't know, the cylinder/yoke assembly is easily removed from the frame for cleaning. Just loosen or remove the lower front sideplate screw (This is called the yoke screw. Don't lose or substitute another screw for it), then open the cylinder and pull it and the yoke toward the muzzle to remove. To remove the sideplate to clean the internals, remove the remaining sideplate screws, hold the gun by the barrel and forward frame and rap the grip frame with a mallet or a wooden or plastic tool handle. It will pop free. Do not pry it out or it can be damaged. The same technique can be use to remove stocks that are stuck to the frame.

WAR EAGLE! (Hope we get to beat y'all again this year!)
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Thx buddy. Been watching a few videos on cleaning the model 10. Not that complicated . Thx again and ROLL TIDE ROLL!!😉
 
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