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Discussion Starter #1
Hows it going guys, I'm new on here and looking to figure out the only problem I have with my new to me S.W. 59. I recently purchased from Cabelas a century arms re imported SW 59 pistol, the serial number seems to date it to about 1975. I bought the gun for 250 dollars, the price seemed to good to pass up, and I have to admit it is the apple of my eye lately. A very cool police trade in gun. I found on my first range trip with the gun only two major problems. The first was easily rectified and that was that the sights were way to far to the left. The second though I'm still working on. I found that in my first 150 rounds it struggled to get through a magazine without a failure to extract. I would then have to lock the slide back, drop the magazine, and then clear the case. The case was never stuck, in fact if the gun was shook would fall out implying the extractor had just failed to grab the empty case to extract it. I took it home and cleaned it very thoroughly, making sure it was liberally oiled. On the second outing today it preformed a little better, the sights are dead nuts accurate, I'm in love. But I still had about every other magazine a failure to extract that left me clearing my weapon. Towards the end of my session it managed two magazines with no malfunctions and on the 3rd made it to the last round before failing to extract and jamming the last round between the breech face and the fired case. Its an old gun, and I totally accept that but this seems like something that might work itself out as the gun wakes up from possibly years of hibernation. How ever if it doesn't does this sound like a weak extractor spring or some other known issue? I have google searched thoroughly and have been unable to find any specific mention of my problem with one of these guns. Id also be interested in learning as much as I can about my specific pistol. Any tips to checking for markings etc.
 

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Check the extractor for damage to it's claw, and also for any dirt accumulated under it. Make sure that it's pivot pin and the mounting hole is not worn.

Make sure that the action smoothly cycles, and that the recoil spring is not encountering friction on the guide rod. Sometimes the guide rod and recoil spring must be replaced.

Is it going completely into battery when the action closes? It's possible that your support for the gun isn't solid enough.

If you just bought it and Cabelas indicated it was in safe shooting condition, ask them to inspect it and make it good.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
To answer in order:
I did First suspect a worn extractor claw and the claw appears to still have its shape, and be in good condition. I even slipped a round into the slide and it fits nice and tight with the extractor. There could be dirt under the extractor although probing it up and down with a screw driver does seem to indicate it is free to move, but not sloppy.

The action is very smooth, I actually after initial cleaning (Which I did before first range outing), found it was exceptional to me for a gun of its age. I it cycles smoothly and freely.

As near as I could tell it is in battery, the slide is landing flush with the rear of the pistol grip frame and not malfunctioning other then seeming to blow back and just not yank the case back.

It was a used handgun, it is safe to operate and the attested to that but did not attest that it would work flawlessly. It is as they advertised, a used handgun in functional condition all be it maybe not perfect.

I was suspecting a fatigued extractor spring or extractor itself being that it is like it only fails to extract under concussive force of a cartridge being detonated. I can run the slide all day long, launching a fountain of brass but it seems to only have its problem when firing. I have only as of now 250ish rounds through it and it was fairly dirty from holster wear and neglect when I got it. Cleaned up enough for the display case but not obviously detail cleaned. Like I said toward the end of todays 100-150 rounds it seemed to be malfunctioning less but I was out of ammo for the day and was forced to retire sadly. Time will tell on that front I suppose.
 

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Since the cartridge case expands when fired, the next place to look is the condition of the chamber (corrected) wall itself. Worn?

I've been assuming you're shooting brass cases. If steel cased, all bets are off.

Both the extractor spring and the inner face of the claw (which may, in fact, be slipping off the case rim instead of yanking it in the initial extraction phase) may be at issue. Verify that the profile of the extractor is not worn down.

I'd first try acquiring a replacement extractor and spring and try that if the chamber (corrected) condition is good.
 
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Since the cartridge case expands when fired, the next place to look is the condition of the cylinder wall itself. Worn?

I've been assuming you're shooting brass cases. If steel cased, all bets are off.

Both the extractor spring and the inner face of the claw (which may, in fact, be slipping off the case rim instead of yanking it in the initial extraction phase) may be at issue. Verify that the profile of the extractor is not worn down.

I'd first try acquiring a replacement extractor and spring and try that if the cylinder condition is good.
Cylinder Wall ??? Model 59 9 mm automatic. How about Chamber Wall !!! Maybe !!
 

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the Trouble shooting guide in the Armorers manual for failure to extract shows only three possibilities. Assuming that the gun is cleaned

Damaged extractor itself . While it my look find it may be bent slightly. this is caused by dropping a round in the chamber and closing the weapon on a round already in the chamber enough of a bend that the extractor paw is not catching the round

Damages or worn extractor spring. . As Auto pistols get older springs do develop memory Replace the extractor spring

Damage to the recoil spring. Same problem as above. Suggest replacement

Hope this helps.

Due to the fact the gun is a much older 59 and came in from a foreign country I would replace all three. Just my suggestion
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Upon closer inspection with the camera flash I see the same thing you guys are likely seeing is it still looks filthy. In any case Im oiling the extractor and manually operating it with a screw driver and seeing some black residue coming out. I guess only more range time and cleaning will tell for sure if the extractor spring does need to be replaced. Look at all that shmoo. sw596.jpg
 

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Those small springs that work the extractor can rust and lose some of their temper. If that happens the extractor doesn't get a good purchase on the case rim or even bounce open in the dynamics of the pistol's cycling. The exploded diagram of the 59 series pistol should show the direction to drive out the drift pin holding the extractor in. You might want to look into another spring.

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/smith-wesson/auto-pistols-sw/59
 
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Depending on the country it came from, it's possible that the cylinder was recut for 9x23mm ammunition (instead of the normal 9x21 9mm Luger Parabellum cartridge). This is common in Italy where civilians can't have the parabellum round (considered "military").

The 9mm cartridge headspaces on the mouth of the case. The small ridge that is showing up with all the dirt or corrosion is what stops the cartridge's forward movement when it's in battery. . Inspect it closely to see if it's possible it was cut a couple mm deeper into the chamber. Someone with a proper 9mm Luger headspace gauge can verify it's still in proper specs for a 9mm Luger cartridge.

You probably need to remove the extractor to check the condition of the spring and dirt accumulating in the well.

Probably best to start with a spring kit and replace them all - especially on an older gun that has been around and used for awhile.
 

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Depending on the country it came from, it's possible that the cylinder was recut for 9x23mm ammunition (instead of the normal 9x21 9mm Luger Parabellum cartridge).


Marc, read post #5, autoloaders don't have cylinders. Try the word chamber.
 

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Do you know anybody who has an Untra Sonic tank cleaner system ?? i suggest using one if you can find one. Otherwise give the extractor a good blowing out with Gun Scrubber. Blow dry and re-lube. That might help also

But i did look at the picture very closely witha loop and it looks like the extractor need to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Do you know anybody who has an Untra Sonic tank cleaner system ?? i suggest using one if you can find one. Otherwise give the extractor a good blowing out with Gun Scrubber. Blow dry and re-lube. That might help also

But i did look at the picture very closely witha loop and it looks like the extractor need to be replaced.
Really? What am I looking for that appears worn out? It looked ok to me but If im missing something id like to know.
 

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This is one of those things you are going to have to go at one step at a time. I would get a punch set and take the extractor pin out and inspect the extractor's cavity. I would at least order a new extractor spring from Gun Parts Corp. if not a extractor. It didn't look bad to me, but a picture may not show wear. With what you are describing, the extractor and spring is the place to start. According to the schematic the pin drives out from the slide's interior.
 
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The first thing I do with a used semi auto, after a complete cleaning is REPLACE the recoil and Mag(s) springs.

You can spray the snot out of the extractor and internals with GunScrubber or Brake Cleaner. Then blow it out with a can of air Don't keep putting oil on it. Use some solvent if you don't want to remove the extractor.

I will bet it is the recoil/mag springs.

https://www.gunsprings.com/SMITH & WESSON/NUMBERED SERIES/cID1/mID58/dID261
 

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Just out of curiousity how would the magazine spring effect extraction? It has a mecgar 15rd magazine, not original.
From your original post:

Towards the end of my session it managed two magazines with no malfunctions and on the 3rd made it to the last round before failing to extract and jamming the last round between the breech face and the fired case.

A failure of the last round is often a weak magazine spring. The mag spring and the recoil sprin work together. Often a weak mag spring causes stove pipes and failure to feed which will in turn screw everything else up.

It's an old gun, chances are all the springs are worn. Consider it cheap insurance tuneup. One less thing to worry about. For $7-* dollars it is worth nowing it is new,
MecGar mags are the OEM for many gun makes including SW
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Cool, just placed an order for a service pack, only 15 bucks. By the way, thanks every one for being so helpful. Its very cool and refreshing to see a forum for anything that is actually active with the existence of Facebook these days.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hey guys, I just wanted to provide some closure to this thread for any one who might ever have this problem and needs some advice. Thanks again for all the help, every one was very helpful here. I got my spring kit from gunsprings.com and it made a huge difference. I took it back out too the range afterwards and ran over 100 rounds through it with out a single malfunction, it kept pace with my 2017 Sig p250 for reliability. I also ordered for it just to finish things out two new mecgar smith and wesson 5906 17rd mags and a pair of Hogue wood grips. The mags fed flawlessly, and I love the new grips over the old nylons. So in conclusion. Defintily consider a spring kit if you are experiencing any lack luster performance out of your original SW 59. It also gave me an opportunity to really take the gun down to the bare components and really clean it out and man was it filthy in ways you would never be able to see. smith1.jpg smith2.jpg
 
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