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Judging by the condition of your gun I would be the that old lubricant has turned into a substance much like varnish and gummed up the works. You can remove the grips and soak it I need a shallow pan filled with automatic transmission fluid for a week or two and things should loosen up. ATF has a very high level of detergents. Barring that a trip to a competent gun smith may be in order for a thorough strip down and cleaning. WD40 is famous for this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Judging by the condition of your gun I would be the that old lubricant has turned into a substance much like varnish and gummed up the works. You can remove the grips and soak it I need a shallow pan filled with automatic transmission fluid for a week or two and things should loosen up. ATF has a very high level of detergents. Barring that a trip to a competent gun smith may be in order for a thorough strip down and cleaning. WD40 is famous for this.
Yea. It's been sitting in my dad's safe for decades. Most of the revolvers in there are gummed up too. Is WD40 is good on gun metal? I ordered Hoppe's #9 and Rem Oil. Be here on Thursday. Should I keep hitting the rod with WD40 or wait for Thursday?
 

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Never put WD-40 on a firearm. It's a water displacement chemical. You need to clean this (grips off). Best to have a smith do it properly. It's valuable, both as a family heirloom, and financially.
 

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make mine 45 acp 😎
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... I ordered Hoppe's #9 and Rem Oill...
above good for regular cleaning, like after it is shot or to keep it oiled.. you will need to clean the action out first though..

ggogle 'Ed's Red' cleaner - you dont have to duplicate it exactly, just atf fliud works well..
 

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I just cleaned up an older 1911 for a friend. A two week soak in ATF was just the ticket. Rinsed it in an aluminum pan full of gas, then lubed and reassembled . I just field- stripped it for “ normal” cleaning and put the parts in the ATF. Hank
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I just cleaned up an older 1911 for a friend. A two week soak in ATF was just the ticket. Rinsed it in an aluminum pan full of gas, then lubed and reassembled . I just field- stripped it for “ normal” cleaning and put the parts in the ATF. Hank
I'm working on mine too. Ok ATF then gas. If I can't get it open after hitting it with some Rem Oil I'll try that. Thanks

468469
 

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Personally I would talk to my local gunsmith before I did the ATF soak and clean up with gas. I think it would be good to put the revolver in one of those vibrating baths with the grips removed of course. Or you could check out Brownells for the vibrating tank or maybe even midwayusa.
 

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make mine 45 acp 😎
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there are also products like the spray can Kroil which might help - REM Oil is good as a light lube/protect but not as a penetrator.

KROIL is a penetrating oil safe to use on guns, i use that a lot instead of ATF for parts soak. and reuse it.. Stinks though..
 

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The 28 I got recently was sitting for many years and you could feel it. Nothing was locked up but it was balking and not happy.

First thing I did was take off the grips and stick the nozzle of some CLP into every orifice and spray. I used the Lucas but I am a big fan of their products but most any CLP will do ..(although I hate Winchester).
Set it on the sights on something like an old towel and come by later and do it again. Wait until you see the color of the muck that comes out. Later After I got everything freely moving I removed the side plate and gave it a proper clean and oil with a quality lubricant where needed.

It by far has the best action on any Smith I have ever owned.
 

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Did you pull the cylinder out from the frame? I just dont see how it could be misaligned .. I guess maybe it could happen and I dont know your particular gun but that would be way down on my list of things to check.

One of the screws on the right side of the gun when removing the side plate will allow you to pull the cylinder forward and out of the gun. I would pull it from the gun and make sure everything spins and moves as it should.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Did you pull the cylinder out from the frame? I just dont see how it could be misaligned .. I guess maybe it could happen and I dont know your particular gun but that would be way down on my list of things to check.

One of the screws on the right side of the gun when removing the side plate will allow you to pull the cylinder forward and out of the gun. I would pull it from the gun and make sure everything spins and moves as it should.
No. Look at the sprocket looking thing that actually pushes the shells out. It is hitting the cylinder where it's supposed to mesh with
 

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Sorry .. Just trying to be helpful but .. its really hard to tell much from the photo. Perhaps one of the experts will be along shortly.
 

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Its not impossible that the rod simply got bent along the way but I would think you would feel it all along its movement. If you take it apart you could set the rod on a flat surface and check if its still round and unbent ??
 

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No. Look at the sprocket looking thing that actually pushes the shells out. It is hitting the cylinder where it's supposed to mesh with
Sir, I've read down through this thread and I'm not trying to offend, but you have a very nice old revolver and it seems you have limited experience working on these pieces. With its family history, I strongly suggest you find a competent gunsmith in your area that is familiar with Smith and Wesson revolvers. We can offer all sorts of suggestions that might get you fixed up, but I'd highly recommend having a professional gunsmith address the issues at this point. Good luck with whatever you decide!
 
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