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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 15T with about 1,500-1,700 rounds through it. Never once a FTF or any problems at all. Haven't changed a thing on it. Suddenly started stove piping 1 in 10 rounds. I do a basic clean after every use. Performed a very detailed cleaning and M-Pro7 on all needed areas as usual. That reduced frequency somewhat. 1 in 20- 25. 4 different types of ammo. 5 different mag manuf. all do same thing. Slow to quick fire and doesn't stove pipe. Rapid or fast as a stock 15T can be run by average shooter and it stove pipes. Two seasoned gunsmiths have looked at it and found nothing bent, broken, worn, or damaged. Obviously something has worn or broken to have this problem suddenly show up using same mags and ammo I always have. P-mag G2 & G3. Hexmag. S&W metal and poly mags. Federal XM193 XM855 American several kinds, all bronze. Once again zero problems for 1,000 rounds plus. Possibly 500 more. Suddenly can't run rapid fire. Has stove piped both ends of the casing. Any help is appreciated![email protected]
 

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Try cleaning the chamber extra well. Handloads or factory ammo?
Use the mag that came with the rifle....does it stove pipe then?
Don't go changing alot before you know whether it's the ammo or funky mags. If yer shootin a buddy's handloads....shame!
 

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Clean Clean Clean. Mine did the same thing. Had to clean it about every 250 to 500 rounds.
 

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Not to be argumentative but I doubt cleaning, ammo or mags is his problem based on what he wrote in the OP.

And any modern AR that needs cleaning every 500 rounds is not running properly. They should and do go for thousands of rounds without cleaning.



Travis
 

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meaningnodisrespectofcourse....but new rifles need a thorough cleaning! even out in the **** a soldier kept his rifle clean and working....Jeesh!
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Thanks for info. I have a stock 15T. Nothing changed on rifle except for BCM charging handle when brand new. I've used 4-5 different kinds of ammo since problem turned up. I've used 4-5 different mags including Gen2&Gen3 P-Mags which always ran flawlessly and still do in DPMS and Colt. Steady rate of fire and zero stove pipes. Pick up the pace and usually within 10-20 rounds I get a stove pipe. Can be either end of the casing. Did notice since original post that the hand guard is beat up pretty good right in front of ejection port. T is for tactical which added the 4 sided rail and Troy sights, otherwise just a standard M&P 15. Something has changed. Ejector looks fine. Buffer & spring look fine. Problem is not obvious to gunsmiths and a couple Special Forces guys that looked at it. Soit appears I start changing parts until problem goes away. That is my question now I guess. What is most likely to cause this? Where do I start?
Thanks again
JNW NBS
Ammo is Federal, American, Perfecta, PMC, etc. Never shot a reload or handload, ever.
First 1,000-1,500 rounds through rifle over first 3-4 years had zero problems. Rifle has been cleaned dozens of times.
 

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Find out which weight buffer you have. If you're not familiar with the different types I can walk you through. I don't want to assume.

Is it a 20" barrel or a 16"? I can't tell when I look at the different models on Smith's site.

New springs for the ejector and extractor are cheap and plentiful so swapping those out before addressing potential buffer issues would be a no-brainer for me. It sure isn't going to hurt anything.


Travis
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's a 16". About 4 years old. Ok, one more dumba$$ question. I looked on Brownells, Midway, and several others and don't see my ejector spring. Where is best place to buy AR parts? I have several AR's and this is very first problem I've ever had. Probably 6-7,000 rounds through all of them. Never bought one part of any kind.
Thanks Again
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes, everything else is perfect. Bolt locks back on all mags. P-mag Gen1 had that problem few years ago. Haven't used those since.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I will buy all possibilities. A very highly recommended gunsmith said "well these problems show up, usually go away". That doesn't help. Something is wrong. Just need to know what to try and where to get it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Well, trying to see if buffer tube had any numbers in it I am noticing the roll pin is sticking up 1/8". Could that cause the problem? Or is it supposed to stick up? Buffer, not tube.
 

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Ok.

First couple things I would check would be to make sure your gas tube isn't shooting loose and I'd also check the gas key that sits on top of your bolt carrier group to make sure it hasn't shot loose. It may or may not be staked. My M&P15 is but you never know.

Palmetto State Armory will have your springs.

Bolt Carrier Groups - Upper Parts - AR-15

If you want to try to upgrade, BCM sells some options.

https://www.bravocompanyusa.com/AR-15-Bolt-Carrier-Group-Parts-s/221.htm

Grabbing some extra springs in general (and roll pins) is a good idea too.

But assuming all those things are okie-dokie, I would be looking to see if the gun is over or under gassed. I'm going to guess it's over gassed if the bolt is consistently locking back. Although that could still be up in the air. When you experience the stovepipes is the bolt already moving forward and stripping off the next round?

When you remove the buffer check for markings. If it has nothing you have a standard weight buffer. If it has an H you have a heavy. I doubt it will have an H2 or H3. If it were mine I would be looking to order an H because I'd be willing to bet you have a standard carbine buffer. However if it is marked "H" then I'd try an H2. I actually like to have one of each for troubleshooting purposes. Basically what we're trying to do here is get the gun running smoothly so the bolt isn't moving too quickly or too slowly. It's like Goldilocks. We want it just right.

If any of this doesn't make sense just tell me and I'll try and explain better or take some pics.



Travis
 

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Well, trying to see if buffer tube had any numbers in it I am noticing the roll pin is sticking up 1/8". Could that cause the problem? Or is it supposed to stick up? Buffer, not tube.
Ah man... You mean I typed all that **** for nothing? Grin...

That's gonna be your problem. That's my bet anyway.


Travis
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Glad you said all you did. Helps a ton! No markings so standard. I will get BMC parts for sure. Does TRY to load the next round, so yes it does strip it. Going to order all that. Going to check gas block and key. (could have a question there) If you're going to own guns need to know how to diagnose and fix them. I'm working on that. Roll pin is worn on that end but tube shows no lines or wear. Going to replace anyway. Thanks for help!!!!
 
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