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Discussion Starter #1
I noticed on my Smith 624, and I noticed that the front of the cylinder very very lightly contacts the forcing cone. Not enough to scratch anything either on the cylinder or the forcing cone, but it is still there. As you slowly close the cylinder you can see it being moved forward along the cylinder pin forward as it closes. The cylinder to forcing cone gap is very very tight. There appears to be no binding when the action is worked (actually action is very smooth). I shot the gun today with Speer Gold Dots and it is super accurate with factory ammo. Is this something I should worry about, and if so, what do I do to correct it? The gun itself was very clean, nothing under the extractor star, nothing on the front of the cylinder, and the recoil shield and that area was also very clean.
 

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Dave, I had the same problem when I bought my M-17-4, NIB, a few years back. S&W had to rework the cylinder face, to square it up with the centerline of the cylinder. They also didn't reblue the cylinder face. It's a shooter....so no big deal. Since yours is SS, it ain't a problem.

I suggest that you call S&W Customer Service. Explain the problem, and what I said. They should fix it on their dime!!!! They will also (?) pay for the shipping. It took less than a week for me. ('course I deal direct. :D Since the factory is about 30 minutes away!!!) Bob
 

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is the "almost touching" uniform,? top to bottom ( all the way across? maybe the barrel 'stub' is not "cut square"...I'd have a gunsmith take a look at it , very simple, easy , quick fix really............
 

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Hi Guys,

I have beautiful 29-5 Classic Magnum II that I have fired 6 rounds through. When cleaning I noticed scratches on the face of the cylinder. I didn't know how they got there, I thought I did it during cleaning. Then as I handled the gun afterward I noticed more scratches.

I inspected the gun and found that the cyl was contacting the forcing cone and a big burr was scratching the cyl. It got worse each time I opened the cyl. On the forcing cone was a burr about 8 o'clock position looking from rear, this is point where the cyl was contacting the forcing cone. The burr seemed to get larger and the scratches got worse each time I opened the cyl. Needless to say I stopped doing that.

I sent to S&W end of '08 and it is still there. I called today again and it is still in repair.

I hope all conditions are addressed, the burr, the scratches and repolish and reblue, maybe excessive cyl play. It worries me that I may get it back and it does it again.
WGlide
 

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Perhaps you have some end shake, and if this is corrected the rubbing would be cured. As the cylinder is tightened up, the air gap will grow proportionally.
 

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Hi 500,

That is what I was thinking after reading your very exellent FAQ segments, that if the burr was getting worse each time I closed the cyl, that the endplay was off. That booger on the forcing cone was the ugliest thing I have ever seen on one of my guns. Actually that is the only ugliest thing I have ever seen on my guns.

I talked to S&W yesterday and got no details on what they were doing, just that it will take some time to do all the polishing and blueing after the mechanism is corrected. I just hope that the cyl/barrel gap is not too big when they get done.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Latest update on this is even more confusing. I added the bearing to the cylinder, but noticed that the cylinder was still bumping ever so slightly. I took the gun completely apart and then took a look again at the yoke button. Someone somewhere had peened the bottom of the yoke button, but they peened it so that the yoke and crane moves forward when the cylinder is open. Basically it looks like there is a groove right where the yoke screw rides now. So, unless I can find a way to fix this, I will need a new yoke / crane. The weird part is it is only peened in one little spot so that it affects the yoke when the cylinder is open. When the gun is closed, the cylinder is rock solid with zero movement back and forth. When I close the gun and hold the yoke back to the rear, the cylinder closes with no contact on the forcing cone. But when the cylinder is open the yoke will move back and forth ever so slightly. I also noticed that if the gun is held level, no rubbing or contact. I have never seen anything like it, and have no idea why anyone would attempt it. I have put an ad in the wanted section looking for a stainless yoke/ crane. I talked to S & W today. $35 for the crane, but they won't sell it to me without them fitting it, and I would need to have the whole gun refinished, all told about $225.
 

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If you have yoke endshake, peening the screw will pull it in more and tighten it up. If the yoke shaft is undersized, this might be the wobble you detect.
Check you cylinder air gap. It should be .004-.006 ideally, or by the book .003-.010. If the air gap is too tight you could dress the forcing cone with a file to open it up a few. Just do it carefully so you don't cut it on an angle. They have special cutters and bushings which will cut them square.
As S&W says, all yokes are fitted to the gun.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well the latest is this, I found a yoke today for the gun, and since on the edges of the cylinder there are some very small dings from where it rubbed against the forcing cone, I am going to have Bowen Arms do a blackpowder chamfer on it (will look very much like the Mountain Gun). The yoke cost me $45 with shipping, so at worst I can send it with the gun to have it fitted. There is a guy locally though who has done alot with Smith revolvers, so we will see if there is anything he can do. I didn't figure it to be a drop in fit.
 

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Hey David Lapell,

Sounds like you may be getting your problem taken care of.

I got a call from Gander Mtn today about my 29-5 that was getting scratched by the forcing cone that had a big burr on it. The Gunsmith at Gander sent it right back to S&W. He said they repolished & reblued the cyl face but did not take out the burr, so he sent it back. Are they stupid?

OHHH. I'm more than PI**ed about it since I had called S&W a couple of times to make sure they were fixing it right.

I'm going to call them again next week to make sure they understand what they need to do.

Anyone know a name of a manager there at the S&W gunsmith center to direct my call?

BTW, the 629-1 that I had there to fix the timing/skipping problem was returned. They put on a new BLACK ejector....my gun is Stainless Steel! Why would they do that?

I wonder if should send it back for that? I'm not feeling to good happy now.

Dave
 

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WGlide90 said:
Hey David Lapell, They put on a new BLACK ejector....my gun is Stainless Steel! Why would they do that?

Dave
Maybe they ran out of stainless ejectors so they put a blue one on. After all, the gun is 30 years old...
 

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500,

Well my 629-1 is 22 yrs old anyway. You're probably right. The ejector being blue steel on SS looks pretty cool, and there is a chance that it is harder than SS and may be more durable.

I know that 629-1 has a round pattern shape and my later ones have a square pattern shape. That would explain them not having a lot around now, I guess. I just figured they could make what they needed to, to match the SS.

Do you know the year they changed to the square pattern?

They did tighten up the end-play and cyl lock is tight as well. This is my favorite 44 and is my go to every time I go hunting. It's a great shooter.

Now I have to wait for S&W to completely fix the 29. Get that nasty burr off the forcing cone.

Dave
 

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WGlide90 said:
500,


Do you know the year they changed to the square pattern?
Dave
The revision numbers will tell us when they changed it.
Your has the pinned cylinder and I know the -4 is not square, I bet it' around 1998 or so (dash 5). This is the start of the MIM guns.
 

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500,

Thanks for re-inputting on this. As you said, mine is pinned to maintain alignment in a "round" pattern, and the latter ones use "square" pattern to eliminate parts and manufacturing steps, I would assume. (I'm an Advanced Manufacturing Engineer by trade, so I do know of these things in eng/design)

I never realized that until this minute when you made that distinction.

Anyway, I learned something on that.

David Lapell, who's your repair going?

BTW, Update on the 29 Classic Magnum II 7.5" bbl, cylinder scratches and forcing cone burr. I got it back last week finally. It was gone for 4 months! Back and forth from S&W gunsmiths to the factory and back.

It is a thing of beauty again now, no scratches on cylinder face and the forcing cone has a super nice chamfer and end smoothness (best of all my S&Ws), and cylinder/cone gap is at .006", WITH NO CONTACT.

So I am happy and feel S&W does a fine job with repairs and CS. No difference in reBlueing on the cyl to the rest of gun, can't tell it was redone.

It is my 'purrtiest' piece again!!!

Thanks for your input.

Dave
 
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