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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I will need to replace the sights on the gun, as my vision is not the greatest and I have tried fiber optic and Trueglo TFX on other guns with no good help. The Big Dot works fpr me. I have done sight installs before, but I have seen some videos where people say the sights on this gun can be hard to remove and some broke sights installing or removiong. Would it be worth just going to a gunsmithj for them to do it. I have the tools needed here. Opinions?
 

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I bought one of these years ago. Has paid for itself in spades and even removes crazy tight sights with no damage to gun. I put some masking tape on the areas the contact the gun.


I would always rather buy a tool I could use again rather than a one time fee for service... of course YMMV.
 

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I have access to several variants of sight pushers, but on the wife's newest M&P 2.0 Compact, I used the old standby, a brass drift to remove both the front and rear sights, and, after fitting, a nylon drift to install the new Ameriglo sights she likes.
People miss some key set-up factors when doing this kind of stuff, like;
1. Put your slide (removed from the frame!) in a stout, well mounted vise, using vice pads, that won't mar the slide. (I DO love guy's "show-off" pics of their self-installed sights, with everything within a half inch of the sight body is tortuously gouged beyond any hope of repair!). Clamp it down securely. Stout, solid vise, slide mounted low in jaws, sight to be removed centered over vise handle (not out to the edge of the vise jaw)
2. Use a clean, dressed, flat tip brass drift (Brownells sells really nice ones, with replaceable tips).
3. Tape near the "area of attack" on the slide, as insurance.
4. I shoot a little Kroil in there ahead of time, and let it creep in the sight dovetail (so go back and do that now! Doh!)
5. Make sure your brass drift (punch) is centered and low on the sight body, but not accidentally so low you are impacting the slide's dovetail area (gouge city, yo...) Punch should be level with the intended travel of the sight as it exits, not angled down, this mis-directs much of the force) (the force is NOT with you...)
6. People try "baby taps" with a small ballpeen to the drift, and this can actually be bad, in that while you are not moving the sight, you can start to mushroom it instead, making it hard to position the punch squarely, and harder to get the sight moving. Trust your set up, and use a bigger hammer, with sure, direct, well aimed blows to the drift.
This usually gets it done (sometimes...not.)
 

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There's a plunger under the site, don't let the spring pop it up and get lost when the site moves past it.
 
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