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Whats a "very" cup??? They are thick or "hard"

Yes they are fine in a AR. Any primer is (well maybe not Federal match) but look at all the load data regular SRP have been used for many years before they tried to sell us Military #41 primers.

Maybe if you load Service loads, but a slam fire is not likely in a semi auto, It's not a full auto situation!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Whats a "very" cup??? They are thick or "hard"

Yes they are fine in a AR. Any primer is (well maybe not Federal match) but look at all the load data regular SRP have been used for many years before they tried to sell us Military #41 primers.

Maybe if you load Service loads, but a slam fire is not likely in a semi auto, It's not a full auto situation!
Sorry... as you can tell I have still not learned to go back and proof read my post
as I should..... I have read that the cups are very soft and ARs has the floating firing pin.....
And get this over in the reloading where it belongs.........whew 🤪
 

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You always want a soft cup versus a hard one. Why I quit using Winchesters, they don't work in my bolt guns, even if I adjust the firing pin out.
 
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I have had excellent results from S&B primers in both revolvers and 1911s. I have not used in rifles but see no issues for you as stated above.
 
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I understand these primers have very cups. Are they ok to use in the AR15.
S&B SPP are harder than CCI #500 SPP and Federal 100 SPP judging from test data I saw that measured primer dents. I've read it elsewhere and have personally experienced light strikes with S&B SPP in a revolver which had fired 1000+ rounds of various brands of ammo without one light strike. I could easily see the primer dents weren't as deep. I went to a heavier main spring and no more problems.
 

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Nice thing about bolt rifles is you can adjust pin stickout pretty easily.
 

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I'm using up what I have of S&B primers, I have about a thousand left after reloading about 2,000 223 cases recently. They work fine, never had a problem with them at all.
 

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Sorry... as you can tell I have still not learned to go back and proof read my post
as I should..... I have read that the cups are very soft and ARs has the floating firing pin.....
And get this over in the reloading where it belongs.........whew 🤪

The opposite. S&B are "hard" Actually there are no hard or soft primers. It is really how THICK the metal of the cup is. So thick is "Hard"

I have some "tuned" revolvers that will not ignite a SB primer, sometimes it takes a double strike (yes they are seated properly) Thats why super light hammer guns folks use Federal as those are "soft" ie, thin.
 

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The opposite. S&B are "hard" Actually there are no hard or soft primers. It is really how THICK the metal of the cup is. So thick is "Hard"

I have some "tuned" revolvers that will not ignite a SB primer, sometimes it takes a double strike (yes they are seated properly) Thats why super light hammer guns folks use Federal as those are "soft" ie, thin.
Nailed it. The gauge of the metal used in the primers denote hard or soft as in strike ignition.

Federal Match primers have to be the lightest gauge primers you can get and the only difference between a 'match primer' and a regular one is the operator's experience in running the machine.

Myself, I've never used S&B, Wolf or Fiochhi primers, always CCI or Federal. Has some Winchester primers and gave them to Gearchecker a few years ago. I tend to prime my .223's with CCI and everything else with Federal Match.
 
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Adding to what I said earlier, I only use S&B for target loads only. I'm not sure why, I just feel better having Federal or CCI or Remington as my self defense primers. But as I said, I've never really had a problem with the S&B so I guess in a pinch, I'd use them for even self defense. I bought them back when they were $16 per 1,000 at Cabelas a few years ago.
 

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I still have a bunch of Wolff primers. Now those suckers are hard to ignite and go bang!
 
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