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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello Everyone, I'm new to S&W Forums. I just acquired my first S&W revolver and I have some questions about it. I have attached photos. I hear that you all like photos. S&W was able to tell me that it was a Victory Model manufactured in 1943. It appears to have had the barrel shortened. Not really sure of the cartridge 38 S&W CTG, 38/200 or retooled to 38 special. Their are some extra stampings on the gun. I tried to get them clear in the pictures. Any help with info on it would be great. Also looking for original walnut replacement grips. Any suggestions?

20130709_154440.jpg 20130709_154516.jpg 20130709_154552.jpg 20130709_155036.jpg 20130709_163628.jpg

Thanks,

Dave :bluelogo:
 

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welcome01 to the forums from the Wiregrass! And, +1 for posting pictures!! Yes, that is a modified Victory British model .38/200. It appears that your cylinder has been reamed to accept .38 SPCL cartridges. I see two shoulders. The first one is for the .38/200 and second for the .38 SPCL. I can't tell you much about the stampings. The ones on the barrel are for the cartridge: .38 S&W .767". There's probably a nitro tonnage somewhere there but I can't make it out.
 
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BritSvcModel 005.JPG Welcome aboard. We (you and I) have the best of the available "chop jobs". The forward lock is retained. The .767 indicated the length of the case (.38 S&W). The proofs are London (not Birmingham) so no tons. The jumble on the butt includes ENGLAND (Country of Origin), GHD (Colonel Guy H. Drewry, U.S. Ordnance Corps), a p and Ordnance Bomb (military proof). Since your gun was U.S. property on loan there are no British military marks. The gun was proven when it entered commerce in the U.K. The reaming was likely done after re-import. .38 Special wadcutters or service loads will swell a bit but should be okay. No +Ps. You can always shoot .38 S&Ws.

Hope this helps.

Waidmann
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Wiregrassguy and Waidmann. It came with a box of +P's; guess I'll have to trade them out.

Another question... The hammer nose has quite a bit of play. Should it free float or remain stationary?

Dave :bluelogo:
 

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Ahhh, with all due respect to Mr. Bill Waidmann, you can shoot +Ps in it. Modern +P is about the same powder load as pre-70s .38 Special. Target loads are more comfortable for practice, though. On S&W hand ejectors, the hammer nose is mounted on a bushing that allows it to swivel slightly up and down in the hammer. This design helps it find center in the hammer nose bushing mounted in the frame when the hammer is released from full cock.
 

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If you letter the gun S&W will advise you don't use +P ammo in the oversize chambers. I very much agree that most of the +P hype is fooey. Should you experience stuck cases punch them out individually from the front of the chambers, don't beat on the ejector rod.
 

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View attachment 20224 Welcome aboard. We (you and I) have the best of the available "chop jobs". The forward lock is retained. The .767 indicated the length of the case (.38 S&W). The proofs are London (not Birmingham) so no tons. The jumble on the butt includes ENGLAND (Country of Origin), GHD (Colonel Guy H. Drewry, U.S. Ordnance Corps), a p and Ordnance Bomb (military proof). Since your gun was U.S. property on loan there are no British military marks. The gun was proven when it entered commerce in the U.K. The reaming was likely done after re-import. .38 Special wadcutters or service loads will swell a bit but should be okay. No +Ps. You can always shoot .38 S&Ws.

Hope this helps.

Waidmann
. . .Bill, just a thank you for your input on the lettering on the Victory revolvers. Your input brings additional interest to these threads - Hank
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks again for the great info.

Does anyone know where I might find original wood replacement grips for the Victory model?

Dave
 

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Thanks again for the great info.

Does anyone know where I might find original wood replacement grips for the Victory model?

Dave
This is where Yahoo! Google and Bing are your friend. Just do a search on replacement grips and how to get them and you should see places on how to do it.
 

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Check gunpartscorp.com. I believe they may have some.
 

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I would not spend the money to put smooth WWII grips on an altered gun. Standard K-frame (Model 10) will do fine. I bought a a used set for $10 today.
 
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