[jim_ish]

My friend wants to give this family heirloom to her son for Christmas but would like some history on the pistol. Hope folks can help.

Looking on line I wonder if this is a Hand Ejector model and do we know the year it was produced?

I have read that even though is states 32 long it is safe to shoot modern 32 S&W in the pistol, is that commonly accepted to be true?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! That model is a .32 Hand Ejector, 3rd Model, from around 1924. These are fun little guns to shoot in .32 Long and you can also shoot .32 S&W if you can find any. This model was initially released in 1896 and was designed for the .32 S&W Long cartridge (CTG). The .32 HE is built on the I frame. The I frame is no longer manufactured so accessories like grips made for it are difficult to find. The good news is modern J frame grips that enclose the grip frame, like targets or combats, will work on the I frame and make shooting much easier because of the larger grip size that is more hand filling. Alternately, there are several craftsmen that make custom grips usually from elk horn that would really dress up that nickel gun and make shooting easier. It is a perfect gun for a woman or teenager. Recoil is very mild and the gun is quite accurate.

 

[scoutingranch]

Our HE has been in the family for 113 years. Bought new by the grandfather in Denver.
I like old stuff, so I'm biased.

 

[jim_ish]

Outstanding. Thanks for the info!

I have 32 S&W (short) ammo here at the house so will provide that for shooting over the Christmas holiday.
(thinking of just filling in the broken grip with epoxy)

Jim

 

[Wiregrassguy]

@Jim --> Clear epoxy mixed with carbon black is often used to repair these old hard rubber grips. Some folks use sandpaper on the inside concave surface of the grips to get hard rubber dust to mix with the epoxy. On shooting that .32 S&W, make sure you scrub the chambers well to remove all residue around the cartridge shelf or .32 Long might not fully insert. To make it easier to clean, the cylinder and yoke assembly can quickly be removed from the gun frame. Just loosen or remove the lower forward sideplate screw (the yoke screw). Don't lose it or put it in a different hole because it is dedicated to securing the yoke. With the screw loosened, open the cylinder and pull it and the yoke assembly forward out of the frame.

@scoutingranch --> those are some beautiful pearls. They look like factory issue with the gold medallions. If so, they are quite valuable. Very nice heirloom!

 

[delcrossv]

OP, I have pretty much the same gun as yours and run modern ammo through it all the time. No worries.

 

[jim_ish]

Good advice, will clean well prior to shooting.
(I disassembled my model 37 and didn't pay attention to the screws, put the yoke screw in the wrong spot initially so I know what you are saying)

Any reason not to carefully remove the side plate completely then remove and clean/lube the internals?

Jim

 

[scoutingranch]

Guy, the story is even better. Some years ago I purchased "the letter" from Mr. Jinks. It has the grips listed in the letter along with the purchase destination of Denver.
And for those that have been to Knotts Berry Farm and have ridden the Narrow Gauge train the Knotts family brought out to California (they brought out three), that gun was used to keep bums off the train when the grandfather was a fireman and engineer on those trains in Colorado. Here is a picture of the grandfather (holding jacket) looking at the newly arrived locomotive in 1952. That's me being held.

 

[delcrossv]

Good advice, will clean well prior to shooting.
(I disassembled my model 37 and didn't pay attention to the screws, put the yoke screw in the wrong spot initially so I know what you are saying)

Any reason not to carefully remove the side plate completely then remove and clean/lube the internals?

Jim

If you're familiar with doing so, no reason not to. No prying the sideplate please.

 

[jim_ish]

No prying. Thanks,
(done maybe twice but figure I should be able to get by in somewhat a standard design)

Jim

 

[Rule3]

No prying. Thanks,
(done maybe twice but figure I should be able to get by in somewhat a standard design)

Jim

You can get it 99.9% clean without removing anything. Take the side plate and grips off and "hose" it out with aerosol Gun Scrubber ( Brake Kleen), Use some can of compressed air to dry it complete , a few drops of oil and you are good to go.

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Yep, the pros vibrate the sideplate loose by rapping the grip frame with a wooden or plastic tool handle.