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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have an older S&W Airweight .38 spl. ctg. . I cannot find a model number anywhere... checked inside the cartridge chamber but nothing there. The barrel is about an inch and a quarter long. It has diamond pattern checkering on the grip, and the bluing has rubbed off on a lot of the metal. The release is rectangular in shape with scored vertical ribs on it. I am trying to determine approximate value. Can anyone help, please?
 

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Lets start at the top.
Open the cylinder and look inside the hinge bar (Crane) and see if there's a model number there.
It should look similar to this Mod 340-2 or something similar.
Second, the Serial number is on the bottom of the butt grip. we would like tha 1st 5 number and letters in the correct. Use x'x for the last set of numbers in the serial.
The barrel is measured from the very front to the very back where it meets the cylinder inside the frame.
Photo's will be of a great assistance.
The value can vary greatly based on where uyou're located. Pricing can swing as much as $110 or so, depending on regional supply and demand.

We'll get you all the help you needs with a little help from your end. once we have those basics we can get you on track pretty quickly.

Regards,
Gearchecker
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, I sent you a detailed answer to your questions but the bloody forum ate it... so I will try again.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok... here goes again:

MODEL #: 7154 {HARD TO READ}

SERIAL: 27593X

BARREL LENGTH: 1-5/8"

LOCATION: MISSOURI

NO CAMERA AVAILABLE

Thanks again for your help... really appreciate it
 

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Welcome to the forum.

1957-1962 Serial #125000-295000

Stamping of Model # began in 1957 as Model 37 on frame behind yoke visible when cylinder is open.

A photo would really help in regards to value.

Regards,

FlaRonweiweinp
 

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We still need a bit more info to help you out.

Does it have an "exposed" hammer spur?

If it holds 5 rounds it's a J-framed (small) revolver.

If it holds 6 rounds it's a K-framed (medium) revolver.

Generally speaking J framed Airweights are commanding a bit higher prices that K framed Airweights.

"Unless" the K-framed Airweight were to be one of the scarce Air Force Model 13's issued to air crews in the 1950's.

The rectangle cylinder release with vertical striations is an indicator it was made in the 1950's.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
We still need a bit more info to help you out.

Does it have an "exposed" hammer spur?

YES

If it holds 5 rounds it's a J-framed (small) revolver.

FIVE ROUNDS

If it holds 6 rounds it's a K-framed (medium) revolver.

Generally speaking J framed Airweights are commanding a bit higher prices that K framed Airweights.

"Unless" the K-framed Airweight were to be one of the scarce Air Force Model 13's issued to air crews in the 1950's.

The rectangle cylinder release with vertical striations is an indicator it was made in the 1950's.

Condition: The gun is well used and has a lot of bare metal where the bluing has rubbed off over the years. It seems tight and sound however but I have never fired it so do not know if it shaves any or not. Sorry about not being able to take a photo for you... I don't own a camera so a picture is not in the cards. Thanks for your help...
 

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The information I gave you was for a 5 shot j-frame as I was assuming ( dah !!) it was a j-frame and I got lucky.

If the gun is in total need of rebluing and from your description it sounds like it is, but is in good mechanical shape (if I was looking at it to buy I would want to pull off the grips and side plate to look for rust damage) and there was no deep pitting on the frame, cylinder and barrel and the grips were in resonable shape I might offer $200.00 as it will cost $150.00 for a good hot bluing in my area.

That means I would have $350.00 in the gun and then $25.00 more for new springs so $375.00 and that's what it would be worth and maybe a little more if it was in very good to excellent shape in my area of the beach.

Regards,

FlaRon weiweinp
 

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Kk,

I will concur with Ron's evaluation, If I was in the market for your flat-latch j-frame with bluing loss over a major portion of it's surface and the gun is "right" mechanically, $200.00 out-the-door is fair market, in these environs.

Mike
 
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You have what's known as a Chief's Special Airweight, aka a pre model 37.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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A flat latch up here that needs refinishing, might bring in $250, but I would say $200-225 would make a solid sale pretty quickly.
It would really depend on the condition of the barrels bore and the cylinder bores too. The big issue would be getting it reblued properly. Currently in it's condition as you described it, the revolver would need to be kept lightly oiled regularly to keep it form rusting or pitting any furtther. Rebluing it is the best way to protect the finsh in the long haul.
I'm with FlaRon on estimating the cost of getting it reblued properly. There are a lot of gunsmiths that reblue guns, but few that do it properly. if you were to send it over to Ford's, it would run closer to $200 to get it reblued. Ford's is quite possibly one of the best refinishers in the country. They can exactly match the bluing that was original to just about any firearm they handle.

We all wish you well in enjoying and taking care of your revolver. It's a great little shooter designed for personal protection.

Regards,
Gearchecker
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Hey, thanks a million to all of you for your help... Great bunch of people here!

I really appreciate all the great feedback from all of you... THANKS!
 

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S&w .38 spl ctg s/n 60400

SW.38SPL_CTG_60400.JPG 38_SN.JPG 38_Cylinder.JPG 38_Barrel.JPG 38_leftsideCylOpen.JPG

This is my grandpop's backup service model. It fits the description of the OP's revolver.

The SN for this gun is 60400. I believe it may be one of the "pre-K" models as it has AIRWEIGHT stamped on the barrel, but the finish appears to be blued.

Any information any of you fine folks may have is appreciated. I have some rather bad images of the barrel's interior (which is not too bad in comparison to the cylinder - which is very rough).

I am not concerned about value as this weapon will never leave our family (it was used during the Trenton riots of the 60s). I am guessing this weapon was produced in the late 50s/early 60s.

I am more interested in restoring the cylinders and overall health of the gun.

Thanks!
 

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welcome01 to the forums from the Wiregrass! Your gun was shipped in 1955. The frame of your Airweight (pre-Model 37) is alloy. The cylinder is steel. You could remove the finish and polish the cylinder carefully, then refinish it using Blue Wonder. However, it would stand out against the finish on the frame. I'd oil it up and leave it alone. If the action is stuck, remove the sideplate and spray it with brake cleaner to remove the gunk before lubing it.
 

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Thanks Wiregrass!

I really appreciate the advice.

I would rather keep it's "character" in place and simply remove the rust. I am leaning towards the "oil it up" route.

Dave
 

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CB,
This wheelgun of yours should really get some TLC from a skilled and qualified gunsmith. They can hone and polish the cylinder walls and get rid of all that rust buildup and scaling. They can also refinish the revolver frame to it's original beauty without much trouble.

The problem with rust is that is a cancer. And what about the rust in the areas you can't see easily, like within the internal lockworks. You can oil the surface all you want, but the cancer is still eating away at the steel under the oily coating. The only way to stop it is to have it properly removed, and have the parts refinished to protect them from future rust and corrosion. A good gunsmith should be able to restore it for less than $250-300. That would include having the alloy frame annodized again. As a family heirloom I wouldn't hesitate restoring it.
It's your call, but the longer you put it off the worse it's gong to become and it'll eventually destroy this revolver.
Wiregrass gave me this link this morning to look at repairing a freinds gun. I think yours is a perfect candidate for this shop to restore go to www.APWCogan.com and check out what they have to offer. He does Alloy revolver restorations too. It's in his gunsmithing list. It surely can't hurt to look.

Take care of it now, and you'll never regret it later.

Regards,
Gearchecker


 

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make mine 45 acp 😎
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welcome sandraj81 - like jeopardy, can you phrase that in the form of a question?

preferably with a picture and the sn found on the bottom of the grip frame.

it would also be more helpful (to you) if you started a new thread
 

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In order to refinish/re-anodize an aluminum alloy frame , all steel parts/pins must be removed.
 
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