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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had an Old Army since '92 that I got in a killer deal. $100 for it and a radar detector from my Section Sgt.

It was in pretty rough shape so I took it apart and threw it in a box. Well, here it is, 17 years later and I've finally got all the replacement parts I need (replacing virtually ever pin, spring, screw, etc.).

I was going to get it coated, but I just don't want to put that much money into it and am thinking of coating it myself.

Any of you guys have experience with the home bake-on finishes? I did it once to a 1911 back in the mid-90's and it seemed to go pretty well. Wondering if there's anything on the market now that is superior to what I used then.

I'll post pics of the dissected project tomorrow and some after pictures once it's finished.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You guys make an excellent point! I would love to keep the steel parts as is, but a lot of it has been sanded and polished. :( The barrel has a decent amount of blue left, but the receiver has virtually none left.

I wonder if I cold blued and steel wool'd it, that might give a decent antique look to it. Maybe I could match up the barrel and receiver a bit better. I might just experiment with it and see what happens. If I'm not satisfied with the results, I'll probably have to coat it. :(

The grip frame is aluminum, and has been sanded as well (it was in seriously rough shape), so it's probably gonna have to be coated.

I've already spent over $100.00 in parts alone and just don't have the cash to put much more into it. It's gonna be a shooter and although I don't really care how it looks, I'd like it to look better than it does presently (I'd like to take some pride in it ;) ).

If I had my druthers, I'd throw the whole thing in a park tank. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I got tired of fiddle fartin' around with this thing and got it finished. I have yet to get the grip frame done and will just get a can of "spray and bake" to do that.

I re-sanded it and simply cold blued (I use 44/40) a few times with a wipe and steel wool between each application (I find that generally 3-4 applications produces a pretty decent blue).

Everything other than the ram and frame was refinished. I had a heck of time remembering how to install the cylinder latch spring as this thing's been torn apart since 1992. After 20 minutes of staring at it, I finally figured it out. I got so excited about getting it together that I forgot to install the pawl. :lol: Still have to install the new nipples as well.

I'm surprised at the trigger pull. I didn't do any work on the trigger or hammer hooks, but simply slathered 'em with moly. Feels like it breaks at about 3#.

I'm pretty happy with how it turned out and can't wait to shoot! I've only used Pyrodex in my black powder guns, but I think I may get some true black as apparently the fake stuff is much more corrosive.

Here's some pics:

During sanding:


Other side:


After bluing:


Other side:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the kind words guys! :D

I recently compared the cylinder to that of my Dragoon and was amazed at how much thinner the cylinder walls, as well as the cylinder in general, was than that of the Dragoon.

Anyone know if the carbon steel Rugers are cast like the stainless guns? I'd imagine that the steel is stronger in the ROA than that of the Dragoon...... :?:
 
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