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Discussion Starter #1
So I've been enjoy a nice new Model 27 Classic for the last year or so, and since I shoot mainly cast hand loads I didn't really notice this until recently, but the gun spits with jacketed bullets, badly. I never wear glasses when I shoot, but if I put a jacketed bullet through this thing it's a must, what comes back stings my face. I normally shoot light 38 loads out of it, or 158gr hardcast SWC's in front of 14grs of 2400. I've never had a problem with cast, and usually it's the other way around if a revolver spits. Any ideas what's going on with this thing?
 

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So I've been enjoy a nice new Model 27 Classic for the last year or so, and since I shoot mainly cast hand loads I didn't really notice this until recently, but the gun spits with jacketed bullets, badly. I never wear glasses when I shoot, but if I put a jacketed bullet through this thing it's a must, what comes back stings my face. I normally shoot light 38 loads out of it, or 158gr hardcast SWC's in front of 14grs of 2400. I've never had a problem with cast, and usually it's the other way around if a revolver spits. Any ideas what's going on with this thing?
are they plated bullets or FMJ?

Thewelshm
 

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First, are you sure the lead bullets aren’t spitting. You may not be feeling the hot lead as it may be going sideways. Has the forcing cone got lead on it after shooting your reloads? Are the jacketed bullets reloads or factory? If the jacketed bullets are the only ones spitting I would suspect they are out of spec. If both are spitting then you probably have a timing issue.
 

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If you reload “plated” bullets to FMJ spec, it will cause exactly what you are experiencing..

Thewelshm
 

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Forcing cone to cylinder face clearance excessive maybe?
 

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I start every shooting session with "eyes and ears" meaning eye and ear protection.

Ignore this basic rule and your results may vary considerably.

By "spits" I assume you're talking about blowback at the cylinder to barrel gap, and not un-burned powder exiting the barrel.

A "light" load will develop excessive and dangerous pressure as it encounters the barrel rifling "leade" and engages with the rifling. Overcoming this resistance requires a necessary level of force, and going below that with a "light load" will develop potentially damaging pressure.

The engagement pressure developed by different bullet ogive shapes and gliding surfaces will vary a great deal, which is why reloading manuals are not "recipe books", but rather log records of successful measured experiments. Vary from them and you're doing your own experiment. Do it without instrumented barrels and you're experimenting blind, which brings us back to the first point in my post.
 
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Your load of 14gr 2400 is pretty much a a "full house" load. There may be carbon in the cylinders for you shooting 38 specials and fouling may be coming out.

Without actually seeing it who knows??

But you will not be "seeing" if you don't wear safety glasses
 

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Check the timing & forcing cone. If the timing is off the harder copper is more noticeable than the lead. If the forcing cone is too tight it's shaving metal & again the harder copper is more noticeable. Before you modify anything do a complete cleaning to remove all residue.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Si I gave it a good scrubbing with solvent and a brush, it's still doing it. I tried to measure the forcing cone length with calipers, it's somewhere just under .194" long, and frankly looks like it was cut with a drill bit. There are some radial gouges from whatever it was cut with. As for timing, visually I don't see misalignment, but that's not exactly a reliable measurement system. I should also note that I do pretty much all my shooting single action, in 600 or so shots fired I doubt more than 50 were taken double action.
 

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Si I gave it a good scrubbing with solvent and a brush, it's still doing it. I tried to measure the forcing cone length with calipers, it's somewhere just under .194" long, and frankly looks like it was cut with a drill bit. There are some radial gouges from whatever it was cut with. As for timing, visually I don't see misalignment, but that's not exactly a reliable measurement system. I should also note that I do pretty much all my shooting single action, in 600 or so shots fired I doubt more than 50 were taken double action.
Time to send it back to the mothership mate, you will regret not doing so if you go beyond repair.. Smith will treat you right my o2..

Thewelshm
 

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The countersink in the forcing cone should not have any tool (machining) marks at all but what I'm curious about is the forcing cone face to cylinder face dimension.

I second a trip to S&W. Give them a call and get a RMA number. They will probably send you a pre-paid Fed-Ex label and you can call Fed-Ex and they will pick up the revolver at your home. Smith likes them returned in their original carton if you have it.

When you cal, tell the service rep what the issue is and enclose an note, in writing, with the weapon explaining in detail what is going on. They are very easy to deal with and stand behind their stuff 100%

I had issues with my 460 long barrel XVR and it went back. I even left the scope on it and told them I was shooting handloads (not recommended by S&W and it states that in the instructions that came with your weapon). No issue with my 460. In fact, I basically had everything replaced but the frame and they shot the hell out of it as well. Came back with the cylinder well coated with burned powder. Only thing I had to do was realign the scope, they had to dismount it to rebarrel it and didn't get the scope level.

I respect a company that stands behind their products and while I only own 3 Smiths (one is a rifle), if I buy another gun, it will be another Smith.
 
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My 460 is double action though I've never fired it double action. You'd need a Charles Atlas trigger finger to pull that hammer back and rotate the cylinder on the 460. In single action, the pull weight is less than my 44RM that my dad gave me before his death way back in 68 and he had the trigger done on it.

Only detraction on the 460 is the Hillary hole.... and the weight. It';s an extremely heavy revolver but all the X frames are heavy.
 
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Are you left handed? I had a similar issue with a model 60. After three trips to Smith, I finally figured out that the hot gasses were blowing backwards past the unfired round in the cylinder. When I fired right handed or left a fired case in the next chamber, the gas spray stopped . At least it stopped hitting me in the right side of my face. Just a thought.
 

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Check the timing by dragging your thumb on the cylinder while working the action (unloaded of course). The locking bolt should still snap into place & the chambers align. If not it's a timing issue. However it sounds like the forcing cone needs polishing. In either case I'd contact S&W, their service is usually excellent & free.
 
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