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This is a modular barrel with barrel, outer sleeve and odd type muzzle cap. Can anyone tell me how to remove this barrel/shroud system without destroying it? Thanks for the help.
65-8 muzzle.JPG
 

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It takes special tools not available from S&W. Why do you want to remove it? It's not necessary to clean it.
 

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Customer wants a 3" barrel. I have a take-off from an older 65 but I don't want to hack off the existing barrel to find the replacement barrel doesn't fit. I would like to know how the original barrel is installed before I go any further.
 

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Factory installed only . Takes special tools to replace. I no of no one that has them except the factory and custom shop.
 

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How common (model 19, model 65) is this sleeved barrel design in the Smith and Wesson line? I personally wouldn't want a revolver with this system. What other models are getting these, and at what - dash level?

Has anyone seen the process or special tools in use?
 

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New is not always better but is usually cheaper to make. Another reason I buy vintage S&Ws.
 
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http://gunblast.com/SW619-620.htm
How common (model 19, model 65) is this sleeved barrel design in the Smith and Wesson line? I personally wouldn't want a revolver with this system. What other models are getting these, and at what - dash level?

Has anyone seen the process or special tools in use?
Ya Hoo I did a link! , different models but will explain the design
 

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I believe what you refer to as a cap is actually part of the barrel
It's part of the barrel and this is what it looks like when things go wrong... not my barrel, just pics I snagged from the internet a long time ago. When they first came out, they initially experienced some failures, but S&W must have worked out the bugs as I haven't seen any postings in the universe of gun forums about failures for a while now.

This failure looks to be metallurgical, rather than mechanical (over tightening), with that porous looking grain structure.

The barrel is screwed into the frame using a barrel wrench with splines that matches the rifling, it is inserted in the muzzle end and engages the rifling so the wrench can rotate the barrel. It's is torqued down to tension the barrel end against the shroud to hold it all in place. The Dan Wesson barrel system is superior, as it uses a barrel nut on the muzzle end to do the job.

I'm not sure if the frame threads are the same as the older barrels, but I believe they are. I think there is also a lug extension on the front of the frame that aligns with a recess/notch in the shroud that positions it and keeps the shroud rotating, that would need to be machined flush, so a conventional barrel can be used.

S&W 2 piece barrel fail -2.JPG

S&W 2 piece barrel fail.JPG
 
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I believe S&W implemented the 2 piece barrel design with the X frames. When done correctly the 2 piece barrel should be a bit more accurate than the traditional design due to being under tension at both ends instead of just at the frame end
 
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