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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am considering stripping off the old varnish, on my Sears Roebuck Mauser action M-50, that I just purchased. The gun has no particular value, other than to me....as a cheap hunting rifle/shooter. It suits me just fine as is, but, it would make an interesting project. Not going to change the plain walnut stock at all..... I'd just like a nicer looking finish. I'll give it a hand-rubbed Linseed oil finish.

About 30 years ago, I did it to my Ithaca 37 20 ga. shotgun, and I'm very pleased with the results. It came from the factory with out a finish on the walnut. I gave it a hand-rubbed Linseed oil finish. I am actually glad that it came in unfiinished, because I hate those shiny polyurethane finishes, like on the Remington 870. (That's why I didn't buy one!!!)

Is there an article that will "walk me thru" the process? I didn't have to remove a finish before, on the shotgun. I was "flying blind" on that one.....just lucked out! I don't want to screw -up on the rifle. Thanks. ;) Bob
 

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Bob First take some varnish remover and take the old finish off. Then steam out the dents with a hot moist towel. Sand with about 250 grit paper, use the finish of your choice. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. ;) I like simple instructions. Often, people make it sound complicated, and that keeps me from doing it. Bob
 

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Bob, just remember the steaming trick will only work on dents not gouges. When you refinish use several light coats and steel wool in between versus heavy coats.
 

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I would use a paint and varnish remover to get the old finish off. Just let the product do the work. Then take steel wool to get all the old finish off. More or less just follow the directions. I use an old soldering iron to steam out dents and gouges. If the stock has any checkering stay away from it with sandpaper. Use the stripper to clean off the finish on the checkering. Not hard to do. One tip I'll give you if you are going to sand the stock keep the butt plate on. Otherwise you will round the edges. I refinished a lot of stocks. They are really a case by case type thing. I like linseed oil. And I also like true oil. Boiled Linseed oil takes a lot of drying time. I do not care for the high gloss poly type finishes. The finish I use depends on the rifle. Any questions post away someone will reply. Search the web plenty of good advice of stock work.
Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Guys.......Don't hold your breath on this one!!!! :lol: I'll probably shoot it at the range for awhile, before I take on this project. I'll take some pix of the work when I get around to doing it. Who knows when that might be ? :roll: I'll just get the bug one day. Thanks for the encouragement. It'll happen....... ahhh, the retired life!!!! :lol: Bob
 

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After you strip and sand the stock( start sanding with 100, then 120, then 180, polish with 00 Steelwool), buy a can of Minwax 'Special Walnut' stain, apply a light coat,going with the grain, I use a 2" foam brush. Buff it with 00 steelwool and let it dry , and apply a second coat. Buff it after it dries. Then, using a wad of new cheesecloth, rub in a coat of minwax Tung-oil finish. Wait about twenty minutes,wipe it down good with another wad of cheesecloth, buff with 0000 Steelwool. Wait a day then apply another coat the same way.

I use this method for refinishing Garand stocksets on M1s I build for people. The finish will knock you out!

I also used it on a set of ratty K-Frame Footballs I bought at a gunshow. they look great now!
 

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I am going to refinish the stock and forearm on my 53 yr. old Winney 94. There is some oil staining on the stock. Is there a way to remove this oil stain so the finish is uniform? I'm going to use Truoil as the new finish.
 

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You can use acetone to soak out old oil from wood. It WILL dry out the wood as well. A 50-50 mix of mineral spirits and boiled linseed oil is an old recipe for wood restorers. Liberally wipe it on with 0000 steel wool, then finish it off with Truoil.
 

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Just a thought, Is there a furniture refinishing shop nearby? I've had them chemically strip stocks for me in the past. $35 as I recall. when you do the sanding and refinish make sure you have you butt pad (on the rifle) attached. Tape it off with masking tape as well as any checkering. Reason being is that if you sand without the butt plate attached you can round the edges and it won't fit well again. And checkering is a Beeatch to get finish out of. Formby's Tung Oil makes a great satin finish. Two or Three hand rubbed coats, four ought steel wool and repeat about four or five times finishing with the four ought and a final wipe down with a soft towel.
 

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Yep. But, you can buy it by the gallon can at Walmart or a hardware store. It's a prime ingredient in Ed's Red Gun Bore Cleaner (Google). You may need to soak the stock more than once to get out the deep oil.
 
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Ya see... That's just one of the many great things I like about this forum. No BS (usually...lol ). Good info from knowledgeable gun nutz. Thanks Guy.

Ratzo, I'm gonna tackle this one myself as my budget doesn't allow outside services. Thanks.

Christmas Blessings,

Charlie
 
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