[mike britton]

I'm putting this here as I don't know where else to put it.
I have a Kimber 1911 that is a prime candidate for a Cerakote finish. The old warrior looks as if it spent time on a salt water sailboat, or maybe was in a flood.
All sorts of strange pitting all over the slide and upper parts, hammer, sights, etc.
But very little on the frame. Strange.
Add to that the fact that the bubba who owned it before me sprayed it with B-B-Q black spray paint and there you are! I know it was Rustoleum because acetone took it right off and I know the smell.
When I bought the pistol I knew it had serious cosmetic issues but I also knew that the pistol ran just fine and was well worth the $400 I gave for it. And besides, this may be my only chance at a Kimber Custom Classic Target.
So here's the deal, I have picked a color, H238 Midnight Blue, and have found a shop locally that does good work. The price will be around $260 complete, so I'm okay with that.
What I would like to know, from folks that have actually had this work done on a handgun, what did you have to do after you got the gun back from the shop.
I worked in a plating shop for years so I know that any coating will change dimensions, so will I need to clean the coating from certain areas?
Is Cerakote thick enough to upset how the slide and moving parts fit together?
I would like to hear from actual customers as the guy standing on the other side of the counter will tell me what I want to know instead of what I need to know.
Thanks for your time, Mike

 

[BuckShotDave]

Nice looking Kimber. Let us know how it turns out. I had considered this when I began rebluing guns.

 

[mike britton]

Nice looking Kimber. Let us know how it turns out. I had considered this when I began rebluing guns.

You should be up close to this brick! If the pitting wasn't bad enough, it's going to take a complete tear down to get all the BBQ black off this thing.
I took out the mag button to clean it and found BBQ black inside that hole! I'm thinking I'll probably completely strip the thing down and soak it in acetone to finally get it clean.
Looks like bubba sprayed it down without masking it off.

 

[Mac23]

Because it was about three different shades of blue, I had the slide on this semi custom 1911 Cerakoted about 4 or 5 years ago. The slide to frame fit had been tightened before I bought the pistol by someone who knew what he was doing and the sight bar has an allen screw that can be used to tighten the slide to barrel fit at the hood. It also had a Colt N.M barrel well fitted. Good shooter but cosmetically challenged. When I got it back from the finish change, the slide to frame fit was a little too tight for reliable function. By little, I mean very little, more like the feel of a slide without lubrication. A few minutes running the slide on the frame with some very mild abrasive (maybe even jewelers rouge) with minimal CLP and the pistol was good to go. With anything like regular tolerances, I don't think you will see any issues. I emphasize that the fit on mine pre finish was already much tighter than normal factory and needed only a polish.
Good luck with what seems like a nice project.

 

[mike britton]

Mac,
That's a nice pistol!! I have one of those Bo-Mar ribs for a commander length slide.

 

[SidecarFlip]

First off, you can do Cerakote at home or at least you could. It's low temp cure and your wife's oven works just fine.

Now for the bad part... I get my hunting rifles Cerakoted and it's not as durable as one might think it is. I wear it off the muzzles and you will with a holster too but it's easy to recoat or change color as well.

 

[TTSH]

My grumpy old man's opinion? Painting any handgun is an abomination.

 

[mike britton]

My grumpy old man's opinion? Painting any handgun is an abomination.

Part of me wants to agree with you.
I have been taught how to apply rust blue so that I can get very attractive results, I may go that route.

 

[59899]

Cerakoat is not a bad coating. BUT it wears just like any finish. High spots go first, and a lot of holster work will wear it for sure. Like anything, surface prep is key. Someone that knows what they are doing, willlast longer then a home done job!

Let us know how it works for you.

Regards, Rick Gibbs

 

[mike britton]

Thanks all!

 

[mrerick]

I vote belatedly for leaving your Kimber exactly as it is.

It carries it's history.

(I also collect older military firearms, so imperfections are normal).

 

[ussmanlovede36]

Looks like a good truck gun as is.

 

[mike britton]

Bluing is out!
The slide will blue, but the frame and grip safety isn't affected by cold blue!
Some sort of alloy, as a magnet sticks to the frame just fine.

 

[SidecarFlip]

The frame is 304 stainless. 300 series stainless is easily machinable and slightly magnetic.

 

[mike britton]

Sidecar!
Thanks! That explains why the slide is pitted and the frame is not!
I finally have the Bit(h back together and ready for the range!
I was raised in a 1911 family, have owned several, own 3 as we speak. I have torn them down to bare frame and slide many times. Heck, I even built 2 of them from scratch, and I have never had one fight this much going back together! Hence the nickname!
And of course, as always seems to happen with me and 1911's, I'm missing a screw!
But it's a grip screw so no panic. I wanted slotted screws anyway.
But I will say this, there is very little wear inside, and the thing is as tight as a Gold Cup!
However, the thing looks absolutely prehistoric!
I cannot wait to get it refinished!

 

[MisterElwood]

Top is a Remington 20 gauge coach gun that was out in the garage too long and rusted so I got it cerakoted flat black and a S&W 586 that I bought already tricked up and cerakote. Can't go wrong.

1. 
   

 

[dvwinslett]

Brownells Dicropan.

 

[mike britton]

Brownells Dicropan.

I like Dicropan, have had great success with it, but the lower is stainless. Don't want a two tone......Thanks