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Discussion Starter #1
Unfortunately, my first experience with my new M&P 15 Sport was less than encouraging. I realize this is not "top of the line", but I did expect it to go "bang" when I pull the trigger. The problem is that the hammer will not cock when a round is fired. The hammer will cock and the firearm will fire when a round is loaded into the chamber using the charging handle, but not when the bolt is activated by the action of a fired round. It simply will not cock the hammer even though it will eject the empty case and load the next round from the magazine.
On my first and only trip to the range I fired about 80 rounds of both 223 and 5.56X45. The weapon worked perfectly and with very good accuracy for about 30 rounds. Then the problem started and became consistent. I essentially finished the shooting session with a single-shot carbine that required manual manipulation of the charging handle to achieve a working shot.
I immediately contacted S&W warranty service and they authorized a return without hesitation. I appreciate that very much, but I have to admit that along with being a disappointment, it is inconvenient to box it up in an unmarked box and ship it via FedEx, not to mention being without it for an unknown period of time. It also creates a bit of distrust that I will hold for the weapon even when the problem is resolved and the firearm is returned - not something to be desired in a weapon that could potentially be used to protect my life.
I delivered it to FedEx today, so I expect it will be an extended period of time before it is returned me and I get enough of an opportunity to test it to the point that I can trust it. I will post a follow-up message regarding this issue at that time.
Thanks to S&W for the courteous response from the warranty service at their 800 number.
 

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It will not be an extended period of time although the holiday could hold it up a bit. It is not unusual for a warranty repair to be less than a 2 week round trip event which is extremely fast by most anybody's standards. I cannot speak to the paranoia issue. If this is a warranty issue, they should send you a prepaid FedEx label & I think you can arrange for FedEx to come to your home to pick up in a situation such as this. Generally, you can use the original packing which would involve the plastic case plus the outer cardboard sleeve.

Bruce
 

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I have had FTF FTE problems with mine a little. but never heard of any problems like yours. I've seen guys get to that point after dumping 300 rounds rapid fired or full auto on you tube with their guns on fire. but never a semi auto with 30 rounds down the pipe doing it :( I can understand your frustration and can only say, you will probably never feel the same about it and you should get something else just to have the comfortable feeling since you MAY some day have to trust your life to it :( I'm not sure I would trust my life to mine. but as it's all I have I sure as hell will hope it fires if I ever absolutely NEED it to.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, the "repaired" M&P 15 finally returned. The only communication was a simple "replaced hammer" in an enclosed printout (no "Thanks for being a loyal S&W customer" and certainly no "gee, we're sorry for the hassle"). The entire warranty process has not been much fun - mostly because of the method of return. FedEx has not been easy to deal with because of my location. In fact it has been a pain in the butt. I had to locate a FedEx service center that would accept firearms - not all will. I then had to wait at my home all day because of two failed attempts to return it to me (signature required). I can't blame S&W for FedEx problems, but I don't understand why this could not have been handled through the dealer who sold the weapon to me. The box was almost destroyed and I do not believe FedEx did it. The carbine was banged around so much in the cheap S&W box that the front sight was buffed and scratched. I don't know when I will be able to test fire the piece, and frankly I have lost interest. So, it has become an expensive and forgotten mistake crammed in the back of a closet. I have purchased many firearms over the years - many of them from S&W. This experience will have an impact on future purchases. I guess the lesson is you get what you pay for - go cheap and you *may* have problems. Will I trust this weapon with my life? Nope. Will I use it? Maybe. I have Bushmasters and they all work perfectly. But then, they were over twice the price. I appreciate the S&W warranty and I thank them for it. However, I probably would have been better off building a pile of 600 one dollar bills, setting fire to it and roasting a weenie over it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I finally got an opportunity to test the repaired M&P Sport. I fired 250 rounds of 5.56 X 45 and .223 Rem from a variety of manufacturers (PMC, Federal American Eagle, and Federal "brown box"). I had one failure: the round jammed half-way out of the magazine and half-way into the chamber. It actually bent the upper portion of the casing putting the bullet into a five degree angle in relation to the orientation of the round. I used the included PMAG magazine plus a variety of 20 and 30 round metal magazines. Unfortunately I did not observe which magazine and which brand of ammo I was using when the failure occurred since I was simulating action shooting and quickly cleared the failure. It is therefore not possible to isolate the cause of the failure to the weapon, magazine or ammo. One failure in 250 rounds is a 99.6% rate of reliability. Had this entire situation not occurred, I would have been 100% satisfied with the M&P Sport. Now that the weapon has been repaired and test fired to some degree I am satisfied with my purchase. I will keep this weapon and use it primarily for recreation. It may find use as a defensive weapon, but I will always have that nagging feeling in the back of my mind that the piece is not 100% reliable. But then, nothing made by man is absolutely reliable. Thanks again to S&W for the warranty work.
 

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I just purchased the same AR15 as you did. After about 100 rounds I have the same problem. The same exact problem. I am new to rifles. I oiled all the parts in the trigger area and hope that will fix it. I live on a ranch and FedEx is really not trustworthy out here because they use contract delivery people, not full time FedEx employees and my property has a gate. No way will I be sending this back after reading your horror story. Short of buying a new trigger assembly, does anyone have any idea what cases the trigger to hang up and not strike the firing pin? It must be some poor milling or defective trigger part.

Help needed.
Thank you in advance.
 

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I called S&W and they were very cordial and said return the AR and they would fix it. But like many I do not want to give up my AR if at all possible. So I oiled all the parts in the trigger assembly. I kind of cringed because oil attracts dust and power, etc.. But I wanted to know if that may help the problem. I shot another 50 rounds and so far the trigger is now working properly. I hope it is just a lubrication issue or possibly some area on the metal that needs to be worn down a bit, maybe a burr or something? Anyways, so far it’s working.

I also oiled the bolt and ejector area because I keep reading they like to run wet. I wonder if the chamber should be dry or have some oil in it?

Thanks
 

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Gary,

Soak your knew AR with beaucoup CLP, run a patch or two from chamber to muzzle and break that rifle-in. Keep some CLP handy while shooting and douch it between strings. I'll bet it'll settle-in for you.

Mike
 
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Gary,

Soak your knew AR with beaucoup CLP, run a patch or two from chamber to muzzle and break that rifle-in. Keep some CLP handy while shooting and douch it between strings. I'll bet it'll settle-in for you.

Mike
Exactly. Most new autos require around 250 rounds to settle in but I'd want to shoot that many before I'd trust any gun. I cleaned & oiled my M&P15 Sport before using it & drowned the action w/ oil. Zero problems so far.
 
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I'm a very strong S&W customer, but, for shooting .223Rem/5.56x45, I'm gonna stay with my Mini-14, thank you very much. It doesn't look as cool as an AR or an M&P15, but, I have NEVER had any problems shooting even one of the approximately 10,000 rounds I have shot through it.
 

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I'm not going to be a wet blanket here, but there's a basic rule taught about properly lubricating a weapon that should be followed regularly.

If it slides, use a high quality grease. (The entire Bolt carrier group, and the receiver upper where the BCG slides should be lightly greased and not oiled.)

If it rotates or pivots, oil it. (The hinges, springs, trigger group.)

Oiling a firearm to "Run it wet" or to break it in, is not the recommended method to lubricate it.
The owners manuals to nearly every firearm made shows points of lubrication, and instruction on how to do it properly.
Tere are places to grease and other places to oil.
I've never seen a single manufacturers document that would indicate the weapon should be "run wet" to break it in.

Regards,
Gearchecker
 
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I have narrowed my trigger issue down. Maybe you guys can help. What is happening is the trigger disconnect is not letting the hammer get back to a ready to fire position. The disconnect is hanging up on the hammer itself. It shoots sometimes and sometimes not. I have watched a number of videos but have not found one on this issue. It looks like a simple fix it if I just knew which part to polish or? When it happens the hammer is then stuck all the way back being held there but the disconnect. I have shot about 400 rounds. All else works well. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Gary,

So, apparently, there is a mechanical problem with your particular rifle, not a "break-in" concern. Were it, mine, it would go back, under warranty. Logistics not withstanding.

'checker, I'm with you in most cases re: oil vs. grease in the applications you mention. But, in my, and many other's experience, pertaining to the AR-15 rifle, the "run-it-wet" rule during break-in, seems to be the panacea regaedless of verbage from a manufacturer. This has been my experience with that pattern of rifle, from numerous manufacturers. Not tryin' to be obtuse, Amigo!

Mike
 

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Mike,
No issues with your response, and especially with your experience in these issues either. I've herad many operators talk about running them wet to break them in.
I guess if you try one method over the other with these finicky little beasts, one will surely work. AR's always seem to be fussy to get broken in.
Mine had a burr on the trigger or somewhere else in the trigger group. It took about a hundred rounds shot thru it before the burr broke free.
When I pulled the trigger, there was a spot in the pull I felt it "Catch", then if I continued to pull the trigger I would feel it break free.
I ran a mag full thru it as fast as I could pull the trigger, and somewhere in the middle of the mag the problem disappeared. No issues have shown up since then.

All is good my friend,
Gregory
 

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'checker,

Aye, Aye, Mate!

Mike
 

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Well guys I think I have found/fixed the problem. I separated the lower from upper and when checking out the parts in the area of the trigger, hammer and disconnector I found that a primer had blown off a casing and what was left of the primer was under the mechanism the disconnector sits in and was keeping the disconnector from doing it’s job. In other words the primer was keeping it form moving down as it should to release the hammer properly. How wild is that? Ever hear of a primer coming out of the casing? And it was Lake City ammo, not junk.

I have my fingers crossed that the situation is under control. I shot another 30 rounds and it was working fine.

I learned a lot about AR trigger assemblies in the course of al this. Thanks for the advise.
 

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Gary,

Gotta LOVE a happy enging!
I've had primers let-loose, but never (knock-wood) tie-up the fcg. Way to perserver, adapt, and overcome. You da MAN!

Mike
 

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I'm a very strong S&W customer, but, for shooting .223Rem/5.56x45, I'm gonna stay with my Mini-14, thank you very much. It doesn't look as cool as an AR or an M&P15, but, I have NEVER had any problems shooting even one of the approximately 10,000 rounds I have shot through it.


I have a newer Mini 14, the stainless Ranch model. I just ordered a picatinny rail for it and plan to get a red dot on it in a few weeks. It's nice old school but now that I have a AR, I'm really liking the ergonomics on a AR or M4. I own a ranch and the Mini is a great rifle to have around. I am lucky enough to have my own shooting range, not really a range but a real safe area I can shoot 100 yards to sight in rifles and practice with handguns. Hearing firearms going off around this area is normal as a sheriff who is also on the SWAT team lives in front of me and a LE behind me. The people to the side are expert target shooters with single six's, one in each hand. The other side is an organic vineyard so no worries there. I guess you might say this area is firearms friendly. We all have CCWs too....
 

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Gary,

Gotta LOVE a happy enging!
I've had primers let-loose, but never (knock-wood) tie-up the fcg. Way to perserver, adapt, and overcome. You da MAN!

Mike
Thanks. The learning curve is steep but fun at the same time. It's always nice if you have other firearms to use if one is down. I was not liking the idea of sending it back or buying a $200 trigger for it. I also see a lot of people are using the stock trigger but bending the springs and polishing parts to make it shoot easier and get the pull down to about 5 pounds. I think I will not mess with that for now. I like a heavier pull while I'm still learning the ins and outs of this unit..

I read not to get the melonite barrel too hot for longer barrel life being that it is not chromed. Anyone know about how many rounds can go down the tube before it’s wearing out, assuming it’s cleaned properly and good ammo is used?
 
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