Smith And Wesson Forums banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
18,304 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had heard about a home formulated oil that was said to be good on frozen screws in rifle barrels. I had a electrical terminal tie point on my old car that I wanted to get apart. It was a threaded stud on a copper bus with a nut that wouldn't budge. The bus was heavy sheet metal that would've crumpled up with any hard force. I ordered 3 glass nail polish bottles from American Science and Surplus to put it in. It was Ford automatic transmission fluid mixed with oil of peppermint from Walgreens. 1/3 peppermint oil to 2/3 ATF. I brushed some on the tie point and waited an hour. I was then able to get the nut off without damage to the bus. I have since used it on clock assemblies and other difficult nuts, bolts and screws. It smells good too.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
18,304 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
There are some applications that I would be leery of the acetone, but I'll bear it in mind. I forgot to say it broke my '96 F-150's EGR valve loose too.
 
  • Like
Reactions: msharley

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,341 Posts
Yes to Kroil Oil. Used it quite frequently out in the tank farm of the Oil Refinery. Rusted up fittings responded quite nicely. Spray a little or drip some Kroil Oil on the fitting. Gently tap with a hammer. Wait about 30 minutes, and there you go. Didn't respond as you wished, repeat. Worked on a 74 Blazer muffler hanger strap and you just know how rusted up they can get.

CAUTION: Wear gloves when using. Don't mess around with this stuff. The MSDS sheets are rather serious.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,419 Posts
A 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone works well too. I have also heard of your mixture with some acetone added.
What I use in s sptitz bottle. Beats PBlaster hands down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,419 Posts
I can mix up a heck of a lot of ATF and acetone for what a can of Kroil costs. 'm cheap...
 
  • Like
Reactions: msharley

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
I had heard about a home formulated oil that was said to be good on frozen screws in rifle barrels. I had a electrical terminal tie point on my old car that I wanted to get apart. It was a threaded stud on a copper bus with a nut that wouldn't budge. The bus was heavy sheet metal that would've crumpled up with any hard force. I ordered 3 glass nail polish bottles from American Science and Surplus to put it in. It was Ford automatic transmission fluid mixed with oil of peppermint from Walgreens. 1/3 peppermint oil to 2/3 ATF. I brushed some on the tie point and waited an hour. I was then able to get the nut off without damage to the bus. I have since used it on clock assemblies and other difficult nuts, bolts and screws. It smells good too.
Going to have to give it a try.Been using atf (automatic transmission fluid & acetone mixed 1 to 1
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,419 Posts
Nothing beats KROIL OIL Known as 'the oil that creeps' 😁 (y)(y)(y)(y)(y)(y)
Not according to 'Project Farm on You Tube. Kroil came in dead last for breaking loose rusted corroded parts. His comment was 'nothing but expensive snake oil.

Actually, even WD40 did better.

Me, I'll stick with a 50-50 mix of acetone and Dexrom Mercon. Cheap and works very well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,419 Posts
Yes to Kroil Oil. Used it quite frequently out in the tank farm of the Oil Refinery. Rusted up fittings responded quite nicely. Spray a little or drip some Kroil Oil on the fitting. Gently tap with a hammer. Wait about 30 minutes, and there you go. Didn't respond as you wished, repeat. Worked on a 74 Blazer muffler hanger strap and you just know how rusted up they can get.

CAUTION: Wear gloves when using. Don't mess around with this stuff. The MSDS sheets are rather serious.
It's you setting up vibrations in the frozen parts that does it, not the Kroil. The best method is to heat the fittings with a torch and that can be a Bernz-O-Matic propane torch. Don't have to be a gas axe.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Thewelshm

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,341 Posts
It's you setting up vibrations in the frozen parts that does it, not the Kroil. The best method is to heat the fittings with a torch and that can be a Bernz-O-Matic propane torch. Don't have to be a gas axe.
Refineries tend to be extremely upset if you go blazing around with a torch of any sort in their tank farms or anywhere else in the refinery. It's a quick trip out the gate, permanently. Yes, I know about the vibration part on the rusted parts. Tapping does it's magic, Kroil does it's magic, at least for me and that's what counts, for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
50/50 atf + paint thinner - coke a cola also - be careful with any formula using acetone , toxic + harmful to plastics + many finishes -
FYI - many lab tests on web showing kroil to be much inferior to cheaper old stand by liquid wrench on seized threads + rust prevention -
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,419 Posts
FYI - many lab tests on web showing kroil to be much inferior to cheaper old stand by liquid wrench on seized threads + rust prevention -

Yep, and 10 times the cost too. No fancy packaging here, just a cheap spritz bottle and ATF/acetone for me. Like I said, heat is actually the best corrosion breaker. I use a propane torch 90% of the time. acetone/ATF 9% of the time and my IR impact wrench 1% of the time. If the 1/2" drive Thundergun don't get it, the 3/4" drive IR will. Break it loose or break it off. (y)
 
  • Like
Reactions: schutzen-jager
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top