New gun owner - 357 Model 66
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Hi Shauna and Welcome to the forum.............
You've asked some good questions that deserve multiple lengthy answers (opinions), so I'll be brief and allow our friendly members ample subject matter to detail their responses.
The pinned barrel is supposedly (theoretically) a superior way to lock the barrel in place. In practical user application, methinks both methods work satisfactorily. The pinned barrel adds an additional manufacturing process which increases manufacturing cost, however it could provide added strength to the precision barrel/frame fitting.
The question regarding .357 Magnum v/s .38 Special isn't so easy to answer because it depends on the application (how you intend to use the weapon). Obviously, .357 Magnum has more power than .38 Special and in many cases (not all cases), more power is superior but more power also means more recoil, more muzzle blast, more flash, more noise, etc. One of the very basic mechanical considerations to keep in mind is shorter barrels generally do not take full potential advantage of the greater power of the .357 Magnum......in other words, shorter barrels don't produce as much velocity as longer barrels because the gun powder continues to burn as the bullet leaves the firing chamber on it's way down the barrel.......consequently, longer barrels can produce more velocity. Likewise, the short barrels have greater muzzle flash from the burning powder which becomes a factor especially at night (flashbulb effect). Your Model 66 would appear to have a 2 3/4" barrel, which I would consider a "short" barrel. "Barrel length" has additional considerations too such as, muzzle flip, subjective recoil, carry ability (comfort & conceal ability), etc, etc.
Additional considerations are bullet penetration, subjective recoil, second shot follow-up, etc, etc, etc...........
Bring on the discussion folks........................
Best Regards,
Geezer
You've asked some good questions that deserve multiple lengthy answers (opinions), so I'll be brief and allow our friendly members ample subject matter to detail their responses.
The pinned barrel is supposedly (theoretically) a superior way to lock the barrel in place. In practical user application, methinks both methods work satisfactorily. The pinned barrel adds an additional manufacturing process which increases manufacturing cost, however it could provide added strength to the precision barrel/frame fitting.
The question regarding .357 Magnum v/s .38 Special isn't so easy to answer because it depends on the application (how you intend to use the weapon). Obviously, .357 Magnum has more power than .38 Special and in many cases (not all cases), more power is superior but more power also means more recoil, more muzzle blast, more flash, more noise, etc. One of the very basic mechanical considerations to keep in mind is shorter barrels generally do not take full potential advantage of the greater power of the .357 Magnum......in other words, shorter barrels don't produce as much velocity as longer barrels because the gun powder continues to burn as the bullet leaves the firing chamber on it's way down the barrel.......consequently, longer barrels can produce more velocity. Likewise, the short barrels have greater muzzle flash from the burning powder which becomes a factor especially at night (flashbulb effect). Your Model 66 would appear to have a 2 3/4" barrel, which I would consider a "short" barrel. "Barrel length" has additional considerations too such as, muzzle flip, subjective recoil, carry ability (comfort & conceal ability), etc, etc.
Additional considerations are bullet penetration, subjective recoil, second shot follow-up, etc, etc, etc...........
Bring on the discussion folks........................
Best Regards,
Geezer
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559 Posts
Everybody types faster than me, or maybe I just don't know when to shut up!
The pinned barrel was a feature of all S&W Hand Ejector (swing out cylinder) revolvers going back to the 1890s. It was intended to ensure that the barrel didn't move from the proper location. Like the 'recessed chambers' feature of your 66 no dash (notice the rimmed case head of your ammunition sits flush in the cylinder) this was decided to be unnecessary and eliminated as a cost cutting measure in the early 1980s.
Shooting .38s in your .357 is no problem. It just requires diligent cleaning, especially if shooting exposed lead bullet ammunition (generally the least expensive .38 ammo option). Powder and lead residue can build up in the chambers when shooting .38s that interfere with chambering of .357s. The lower recoil of .38s leads to less stress on the gun and faster follow up shots. Better recoil control can also lead to better shot placement.
The 66 is a "Combat Magnum". It's a magnum chambering in a medium K frame revolver. The light bullet (125 grain or lighter) factory .357s are considered to be to hot for the Ks. A steady diet of them can cause damage or excessive wear. Many consider +P .38 special ammunition a good middle of the road option for medium frame .357s.
"P & R", pinned and recessed is a collector's term referring to the pinned barrel and counterbored chambers of the Smith magnum revolvers built before 1982. All Smith's were pinned but only magnums were recessed. These things don't add to the function but do add to the value of your pistol. Most revolver people, especially collectors, tend to appreciate and pay more for the older models features, fit and finish.
Good luck with your Combat Magnum.
The pinned barrel was a feature of all S&W Hand Ejector (swing out cylinder) revolvers going back to the 1890s. It was intended to ensure that the barrel didn't move from the proper location. Like the 'recessed chambers' feature of your 66 no dash (notice the rimmed case head of your ammunition sits flush in the cylinder) this was decided to be unnecessary and eliminated as a cost cutting measure in the early 1980s.
Shooting .38s in your .357 is no problem. It just requires diligent cleaning, especially if shooting exposed lead bullet ammunition (generally the least expensive .38 ammo option). Powder and lead residue can build up in the chambers when shooting .38s that interfere with chambering of .357s. The lower recoil of .38s leads to less stress on the gun and faster follow up shots. Better recoil control can also lead to better shot placement.
The 66 is a "Combat Magnum". It's a magnum chambering in a medium K frame revolver. The light bullet (125 grain or lighter) factory .357s are considered to be to hot for the Ks. A steady diet of them can cause damage or excessive wear. Many consider +P .38 special ammunition a good middle of the road option for medium frame .357s.
"P & R", pinned and recessed is a collector's term referring to the pinned barrel and counterbored chambers of the Smith magnum revolvers built before 1982. All Smith's were pinned but only magnums were recessed. These things don't add to the function but do add to the value of your pistol. Most revolver people, especially collectors, tend to appreciate and pay more for the older models features, fit and finish.
Good luck with your Combat Magnum.
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Forgot to say welcome to the Forum from Northern IL.
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Thank you all for the detailed info! I’ve done research on the gun and ammo but it’s nice to hear from live people. I want to fully understand the gun and ammo differences before practicing and you all have been very helpful. I bought the gun for home defense. I’ve been told revolvers are not preferred but I saw the gun and loved it. In my case my thoughts are then as far as ammo, that a .38 may be more appropriate to start. I am a relatively small person (110 lbs) and recoil is something I feel may be a factor in my ability to maintain control of the gun. I guess I will just have to practice!
Thanks for the clarification and info on the pinned and recessed, also good to know it increases the value! lol
Thank you all again!
Thanks for the clarification and info on the pinned and recessed, also good to know it increases the value! lol
Thank you all again!
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559 Posts
No worries about recoil with .38s in a K frame. If you are new to pistol shooting get some instruction. Grip and stance are the foundation of recoil management.
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Welcome
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Some nice 38 or 38+P with a jacketed hollow point will work well for home defense - no need for full house 357 magnums at indoor distances - the noise and muzzle flash can be very disorienting
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Welcome aboard from east Missouri!
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Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass, Shauna! It's good that you asked for information and advice on your Model 19 before shooting. I think you've received excellent information. Don't stop asking because there are lots of peculiarities and techniques in shooting that you will encounter if you are serious about shooting. A .357 handgun is a very powerful weapon. The cartridge and gun were orginally developed for police to shoot through car bodies, glass and body armor. It can easily shoot through walls and injure or kill someone outside or in another room of your house. Since you can also shoot .38 Special, which is a less powerful but equally deadly cartridge, that's why it was recommended for you. .38 Special has less recoil and will be easier for a woman of your stature to tolerate and control. Even so, you may find it daunting at first. I second the recommendation to find a good instructor who will keep you safe and show you the best grip and stance so you can control the gun. Gun control is extremely important for you to shoot safely and accurately. It takes practice. Please don't skimp on practice.
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