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Discussion Starter #21
Well I took some quality time and read thru the owners manual several times. Thus armed with this new knowledge I proceeded to take my new AR apart for cleaning. Everything went well until it was time to remove the bolt head assy. the manual said to rotate the cam pin 1/4 turn and lift it out of the bolt carrier...It would turn but it would not come out...Long story short I cleaned it best as I could cleaned and oiled everything I could touch and see. I'm hoping the cam pin will loosen up after the first range session. Any suggestions???
 

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Oh and to answer one of your first questions. Nothing about the AR makes it need to be run wet. Could actually make it run poorly. Stick with the manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
So I assume that a range session of several 100 rounds should loosen things up?
 
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Discussion Starter #26
Closest range that will take me is 1 hr. from my house...So tomorrow or Monday. I also need to give my Mini-14 some exercise.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I apologize for all the questions but...Is there a tool kit that will help me maintain this rifle.?:unsure:
 

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For simple maintenance, you shouldn't need much in the way of tools other than cleaning.

Keep in mind these are battle rifles, not tight fitting precision shooters. I regularly shoot my rifles and they are often put up dirty. The BCG and bore/chamber/lugs are of course the focus for cleaning. The only special tools I use is a CATM4 and a nylon chamber brush. Bore brush/snake and patches are borrowed from 22s. I clean for reliable function, not white glove test.



It's not a bad idea to keep a set of gas rings and an extractor spring on hand. Or better yet, get an A15 field repair kit which are usually under $20. Probably the best way to go.

 

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Hank, I'm in the same boat as you.......I bought my Winchester 94 (.30-30) a long time ago, to go deer hunting in VT.. I can only use it for Black Bear hunting in MA. But I never did either .....due to my older age and health problems. But, I consider it to be a fine rifle to have for protection, in case the "Revolution" that's going on now, gets in my area. BLM signs are all around, and Liberals are in control of the town, and state, and the surrounding area. I'm pretty much outnumbered, but if I check out......I''m gonna take a few with me!!! ;) Bob
 

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One tip I found with my Sport II. Took it apart like they said and cleaned it. BUT putting the firing pin retaining pin in (Thing that looks like a cotter pin wouldn't go. Figured I had tried too much and the tips were spread apart. so put something thin between the blades and pressed the tips together just a little bit. It worked but have ordered a pack of the pins 5 for $6 from Brownells (About the same as 1)

Then I found a video and it says when putting the cotter pin back in, most people put it in with the head in a up down orientation. It is easier to put in with the head in a flat or horizontal position so that as you wiggle it, it will go in. ?? Must be something about the shape of theslot or something. Anyway it has worked for me.

I also read to not lube the trigger assembly as there is nothing that needs it and it can a cause a buildup of gunk. So I am sticking strictly with the manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
U Tube has some very good videos on take down , cleaning , proper lubrication , and proper reassembly of the AR platform. I watched about a dozen of them , took some notes and compared information. I have also field stripped my new rifle over and over so that now I am very confidant about how it works. Practice , practice...practice!
 

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Discussion Starter #32
As usual life gets in the way of range time. I found an indoor 25 yds. range that is open about an hr from where I live in King George Va. Tryin to get there next week to give this new AR a trial run. I guess 25 yds. is better than no yds. I would like to find a 100 yrd. range somewhere fairly close though.
 

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I bought 3 ARs over a 6-month period about a year ago. I think I pretty much bought them at the bottom of the AR market.
First one was a 5.56 PSA kit - everything but the lower for $283 delivered plus a stripped Anderson lower & 2 mags for $90 = Total $373
Second was a used PSA built lower for $120 and then I bought a used PSA pistol upper in 5.56 with 2 mags to finish it out for another $230 - Total $350
Third was a Bear Creek Arsenal upper in 7.62 x 39 with one mag for $200 plus a built Anderson lower and two more mags for $190 = $390 Total
FWIW I use Remoil on mine, just like all my other semi-autos.
I haven't shot any of them enough to need to do a full field strip and clean - just a light bore swab & bolt cleaning.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I think the only tool I'll require is the Cat M4 Tool. I have stripped the rifle down with simple hand tools. I don't think I'll need any "special tool" as I have a very good mechanical knowledge and background...Also 60K worth of Snap-On , Mac hand tools as well as machinist tools. I think my bases are covered.(y)
 

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C686,

Congratulations, AR's are fun to shoot, easy to maintain.

One of the things I always look for in a new AR is a properly staked gas key.
 

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C686,

Congratulations, AR's are fun to shoot, easy to maintain.

One of the things I always look for in a new AR is a properly staked gas key.
What do you look for?
 

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Sporty,

Look for this information on the internet:

Ask Foghorn: Staking your Gas Key?

And ook at this one and the other:
AR-15 Hacks: Destroying 4 AR Maintenance Myths

There are others on the inter-webs that'll show you what I'm speaking of 'regarding a properly staked gas key'.

Good luck!
 
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