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So a good co-worker had her brother pass away. He was a lifelong gunsmith, she recruited me to help her with the hoard of guns this guy had. I litterally counted over 100 and that was just in his bedroom closet, did'nt even get to his fully decked out gunsmithing shop he had behind his house. But long story short i ended up with a nice 629 i saw sitting on the wall display board. I was hoping to find out some information on it. I have narrowed it down some and i believe it was manufactured in the late 80's (no pinned barrel, cylinders not recessed, but it is pre-lock)
It seems to have the "3 T's" and i believe the wood grips are stock which makes me think it was a deluxe, but im not sure. There is a N stamped on the back face of the cylinder and it has mod. 29-3 on the frame where the cylinder locks in. Everything looks great in terms of wear, cylinder shake, and timing. And the trigger, double and single are oooohhhhh so smooth.
Any help with info would be greatly appreciated. This is personally my first revolver. (I have shot them in the past, but never owned one)
Oh, and i paid $350 for this gun, and a pellet gun (Gamo Hunter 440 4.5cal 1000fps) with a scope on it for my daughter to learn on when she gets a little older. (ill add a pic of the Pellet gun)

Good Deal???
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Is that good or bad? She said she was giving me a deal since i was so helpful with helping her move, secure, and figure out what everything was.
 

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AEH1688 is on the frame and 36271 is on the yoke arm. Also a very faint E265 (i believe) is stamped under the 36271 on the yolk.
 

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Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! That is not a 629. It is a nickel Model 29...ergo the N stamped on the cylinder and grip frame. The grips are not original and are fairly new. You should realize that you bought that gun at less than half of what it is worth. I certainly hope you are not valuing other guns for the sister like that or you'll give them all away. The air rifle was free. If he was a gunsmith, maybe some of those guns were carried in an FFL log. I don't know what procedure needs to be followed to clear the BATF bound book. If they were all personally owned, then it may not be a problem in your state. You may want to consult another FFL or the BATF for guidance.

AEH serials were made in 1985.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I only pointed her in the direction of people who i know closley that could help her with pricing. She came up with price on the gun for me helping her out at his house with the gun, finding intrested buyers, and helping her with various items at the house. I know it was a good deal, just wanted to confirm and get more info on the gun. My close friend who works at a gunshop (He runs all their gun shows, and does the purchasing for the gunshop) is who i got her in touch with. She has done all legal aspects and is the sole heir. Shes already dealt with turning in his paperwork and all that. All guns on his property were his as, due to his health, had stoped gunsmithing probably 5 to 8 years ago.
She is getting good quotes on what to sell them for, I am not pricing them for her. Im giving her an idea or helping her on how to research, but ultimatly My gunshop buddy has stepped up to really help her wade thru it all. But not my buisness to go on about her affairs.

I thank you for the information on the gun, I was unsure if it was a 629 or a 29. What is the differences between them. Advantages, or disadvantages? things to look out for? ( I mean of course im going to go research the hell out of the model 29 after this but welcome a seasoned opinion). This is a beautiful gun, and just couldn't pass it up.

oh and yes the air rifle she just gave to me.. If i bought the 29 lol.
 

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A 629 is a stainless steel version of the Model 29. Aside from that, they're virtually identical.
Being Nickel plated rather than stainless, your Model 29 should be treated with a light coating of good quality gun oil to preserve the finish, and stored in a gunsock or case.
 

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Well, kudos to you for doing things right. You can't believe how many folks out there would take advantage of this type of situation. For reference, I suggest buying a copy of the Standard Catalog of S&W , 4th Edition by Supica and Nahas. It will give you extensive information on all the S&W guns going back to 1852. The Model 29 "Dirty Harry" .44 magnum became the flagship of the S&W line in the 1950's and is still made today although, arguably, it is no longer the flagship. There is also a lot of information here on the forum that searching can pull up for you.
 

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AEH1688 is on the frame and 36271 is on the yoke arm. Also a very faint E265 (i believe) is stamped under the 36271 on the yolk.
The AEH1688 should be found on the bottom of the grip frame, under the grips. All the other numbers are assembly numbers used to keep the revolver together while it is being built.

Nice revolver and a better deal. I paid that for a Model 29-2...50 years ago!

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #10
All very helpful information. I litterally just joined the forum after getting back from work today, and getting the gun. I will be researching thru the forum, as you guys have already proven to be knowledgeable and kind folks. The 5 year old hasn't let me sit down and really do my homework yet.
Could someone suggest a decent gun sock? Don't have one of those, i have a small collection and hav'nt had anything this shiny except my original (not a kit) Para-Ordnance P13 which is an aluminum body and stainless steel slide double stack 1911. (marlin 30/30 lever, anderson ar-15, zastava pap m92, old single barrel 410, and an old model 34 N.R.A. target remington 22 long/short rifle my great uncle won winning a NRA sharpshooting contest finish off my little collection)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Looked under the grips. On the very bottom is the AEH1688 just like under the yolk on the frame when you pop the cylinder out. It also has the 36271. So all matching numbers.I really don't think this thing was shot that much. Probably because it was a 44 magnum lol. Also like the faint E265 there is a N stamped with f22 stamped beside it on the side under the grips. On the other side under the grips it has two touch marks, one a B in a triangle and one a k in a circle and the numbers 4758.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes, i found that out researching the 629. I forgot, my conceal carry is a springfield mod 2. 45, so is the p13, and i heard the 44 special acts alot like the 45.
 

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I have read the older model 29's aren't as strong as newer ones and shouldn't run full loads thru it?
What ammo would you guys recommend running thru this gun? 240? what's the strongest load i could run thru it, and what should i not shoot thru it?
 

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Also, is there anything i shouldn't use on the finish when cleaning the nickle finish?
 

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Shooting a lot of heavy loads through almost any gun will loosen it up over time. But, I think your hands and arm will give out before then if you only shoor max magnum over time.. Most folks shoot .44 Special for target practice and magnum loads for protection. Not only is it less destructive, it is also less expensive. If you don't reload, you should look into it if you plan to shoot a lot.

Most CLPs are compatible with nickel. Read the label. The old Hoppe's #9 was not recommended for nickel because it contains ammonia which chemically reacts with copper and many nickel guns are coated with copper before the nickel coat is applied. S&W does not use a nickel substrate and plates the nickel directly on the steel. A very inexpensive CLP that you can make at home with ingredients bought at the hardware store is Ed's Red Gun Bore cleaner. (Google for the formula.) I make mine without the lanolin. Also, you can occasionally polish the nickel with a fine metal polish like Flitz or Mother's Mag.
 

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...I have read the older model 29's aren't as strong as newer ones and shouldn't run full loads thru it?...
I believe you have read about the endurance package. What was happening was silhouette competitors were usung Model 29 to shoot competitions and shooting them a lot. And they were using top end loads. They would shoot more in a week of practice and competition than many shooters would fire in a year. So wear and tear was accelerated and started showing up in their revolvers. S&W recognized this and “enhanced” the package to mitigate some of the problem.

Use whatever factory or factory equivalent load you are comfortable firing. For me, that would be a 45 ACP! The 44 Magnum did not work out for me. Good luck with yours.

Kevin
 
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