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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks, new guy here
I recently bought a used smith and wesson model 10-8 and am having some trouble opening the cylinder. The issue is only present on three of the cylinder lugs and on the other three lugs there is no trouble at all. Yes I have tightened the ejector rod to ensure it is not loose, yes I have taken the side plate of and cleaned the internals and yes I have oiled it. I am in a rut and sure would appreciate some advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the welcome folks, I’ll check that screw but if it’s not that, does anybody have any different ideas as to what it could be?
 

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Just to be clear, is it always the same three? Do they alternate or 3 back-to-back? I don't have a guess. I never ran into this that I recall. We have some very good gunsmiths on this forum. Check back in a day or two. It's a weekend and gun shows are calling us in.
 

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An easy thing to check for is any tiny bit of lead or residue build-up on the cylinder face or on the backside of the extractor star. Even a small amount can cause something like this and you might need a magnifying glass to see it. If that's not the case, you might have a bent extractor rod, which isn't that hard to check for, you'd need to remove the cylinder off the yoke, disassemble the cylinder parts and roll the extractor rod over a flat surface to see if it's bowed. There are multiple discussions here in the Gunsmithing section that can assist with these disassembly steps and how to get a bent extractor rod back to true. Also, Youtube has videos to access as well. I've had both scenarios happen to me on different revolvers which resulted in similar complaints to yours. Good Luck and let us know how you make out! Blackcloud2
 

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If it's the same three next to each other and all on the same side of the cylinder? One thought that comes to mind is an out of alignment (bend) yoke that has the cylinder slightly tilted where those cylinders are closer to the barrel end than the others and why it's binding.

Visually check the gap between front of the cylinder and the rear of the barrel to see if there is a difference between the ones that don't have a problem and the the ones that do.

Let us know what you discover.
 

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I'd go with checking cylinder clearance, fore and aft, for each chamber--bent yoke
barrel (the part cylinder spins on) might be involved.

But a quick, easy check--look under the ejector for buildup of crud that might
keep it from seating flat into the cylinder...
 

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Has the spring for the cylinder release been shortened or the plunger removed? Some competition shooters do this to lighten the pressure & give them that jillionth of a second when reloading & take off too much.
 

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Had it happen to me once. Did you check to see if the end of the ejector rod is square? Mine was at a slight angle and would hang up on the front locking pin. Didn’t take much to square the rod up and haven’t had the problem since.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok folks so i checked all the screws on the gun and they are all tight. I cleaned under the ejector star, and the yolk did not appear to be bent. All of the internals appear to be stock with no cut springs or anything odd like that. Also it is the same three cylinders and they are on the same side of the cylinder. Lock up on the gun is tight and there does not appear to be any excessive internal wear. I'm up to any suggestions, but I would like to hold off on taking it to a gunsmith if possible. I am not new to firearms by any stretch of the imagination but also far from knowing it all. Thanks for the replies so far y'all, it's much appreciated. Keep 'em coming.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
@Frbksguy I'll have to check and see if that is the issue. Was the angle that yours at noticeable to the eye?
 

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It was detectable when you spin the cylinder. My gun was a 696 ND in .44 special. I could open the cylinder on one side easily. The other side resisted and I wasn’t going to force it. I checked the extractor star seating properly and the ejector rod being screwed in. None of that helped. Asked a gunsmith friend and he told me about the ejector rod end possibly not being square and hanging up. I rotated the cylinder and could actually see see the high side. Took a stone to the end and dressed it down and tested frequently. It didn’t take long. Take a look at your model 10. It may or may not help. Piece of advice, whatever you do, work slowly and don’t do anything you can’t undo. Ejector rods are easily replaced, some of the other parts, not so much.
 

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Cylinder run out. Check the center pin. Make sure it run straight . Probably bent ..
 
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