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Question: after shooting a bunch of rounds my SW .38 revolver heats up a bit, I start getting one misfire for every 6 rounds fired. Could this be from over heating or do I have a trigger issue or? Thanks
Misfire SW .38 revolver 6 shot
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I took the revolver to the range yesterday...same thing happened after firing several rounds...not sure if it was the same cylinder or not....but that's a good point....I will label them ....I noticed the round that was not fired had a very light firing pin indentation unlike the other rounds so the pin is definitely striking the casing just with not as much force as the other 5 rounds. How can I determine year and model of a SW revolver? Is there a way to check with serial number? thanks all
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The year of manufacture can be found using the serial # and the model# of revolver should be stamped on the inside of the crane. 1957 was the year S&W switched to assigning model numbers to each revolver instead of identifying them with their unique names ( Registered Magnum/Combat Masterpiece). Any pics of the revolver you describe? We'd like to see it and it would also help answer any other questions you may have.
Not likely due to overheating. You can run a revolver fast and reload fast but not fast enough to really get them hot.
Is the mainspring screw tight? That's the screw you'll find at the lower end of the grip. A lot of kitchen table 'gunsmiths' who have no idea what they're doing will either run the screw out a bit or grind it shorter. That reduces the tension on the mainspring and gives a lighter trigger pull but also gives lighter strikes and misfires are common.
Is the mainspring screw tight? That's the screw you'll find at the lower end of the grip. A lot of kitchen table 'gunsmiths' who have no idea what they're doing will either run the screw out a bit or grind it shorter. That reduces the tension on the mainspring and gives a lighter trigger pull but also gives lighter strikes and misfires are common.
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Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! ^What the capt. said.
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Like Cap said check that main spring screw and make sure it's tight. Also check the mainspring, is it a replacement spring or factory?
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I checked the main spring screw I wouldn't say it was loose but I did get it to move a couple of millimeters....ill see if it makes a difference when I take it to the range this Saturday...
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Factory spring....I haven't done anything to the SW .357 magnum since I purchased it new about 10 years ago. It has been a good gun to own and it is deadly accurate!! I am not even that good of a shot but I am so impressed with the grouping from this revolver unlike my 9mm which is a challenge to shoot good groupings.
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if you mean it screwed in a couple of more millimeters (more than one full turn of the screw) then you probably found the problem. If you mean it rotated a couple of millimeters (less than 1/4 of a full turn of the screw) then that is unlikely to be enough to make a significant difference.
Are you shooting factory loaded ammo, or reloaded ammo?
Have you looked at the hammer nose/firing pin?
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Factory loaded (I bought it from cheaper then dirt.com) It didn't turn much so I am assuming its not going to make a difference when I shoot it. The pin looks fine
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How recently was the action cleaned and lubricated?
We still don't know what model it is. If it's an older model 686 no dash (you did mention .357) there is a known problem with the original model hammer nose and firing pin bushing on the frame.
It's certainly hard to be of much help in the blind.
We still don't know what model it is. If it's an older model 686 no dash (you did mention .357) there is a known problem with the original model hammer nose and firing pin bushing on the frame.
It's certainly hard to be of much help in the blind.
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Are the rounds factory or reloads? Are the cases brass or aluminum?
I've put uncountable rounds through my S&W snubs and never had such an issue. very interesting to say the least!
I've put uncountable rounds through my S&W snubs and never had such an issue. very interesting to say the least!
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Please tell us what model it is or post a few pictures. It is possible that the center pin is bent which makes the cylinder rotate eccentricly. You should be able to see this by unloading the gun, pulling the hammer back slightly and rotating the cylinder. If you hold it up sideways and look a the gap between the cylinder and frame you can see eccentricity. If you are something of a mechanic and have a runout gauge, you can use that with the cylinder open. If it is eccentric, the center pin can be straightened to fix it.
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Once in a while I give my SW 38 6 shot a testing, fired 100 rounds pretty quickly single/double action with jet loaders.
Barrel was quite hot but no problems. So barrel being warm should not be an issue for your information.
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A couple of mm's on the strain screw is actually quite a bit. That could easily have been the issue.
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I don't remember the model ....its a 6 shot revolver....I bought it like 15 years ago....stainless
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