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I know how to clean after using corrosive ammo. Now. I admit, though, that when I was younger I neglected this issue when shooting my old Jungle Carbine clone. I fear my Dad did the same thing.

The bore of my old 303 is fairly dark but there is no pitting that I can see. It certainly doesn't affect how this gun shoots, as it will keep very good groups as long as you can keep your shoulder together. I hate that hard rubber recoil pad!

Anyway, it seems that no matter how much I clean this bore, the patch comes out nearly black after using a copper solvent. Will it always be that way due to past neglect or do you think it is just that dirty? I clean it after every session and haven't used corrosive stuff in this rifle for many years now. I have heard or read somewhere, that any rifle that used corrosive ammo would likely have this perpetual dirty patch syndrome.

Anybody experience this?
 

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I've used several similar products, but Sweet's 7.62 cleaning solvent is my favorite for removing copper fouling:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?p ... ber=643582
I like the Sweet's dribble container because you can't accidentally contaminate the whole bottle.

When the copper gets removed, the other black fouling seems to not build up as much. Sometines it takes a very long time to get it all out.

I know that you're already doing this, but maybe you're quitting too soon. On some of the bad ones, I'll go through a handful of brushes in a period of a few weeks - scrubbing and swabbing for an hour or so each evening.

If this doesn't work to your satisfaction, you'll want to consider buying one of the Midway bore-lapping kits. I have restored many dark military bores with these two items - several looked hopeless when I started.

xtm
 

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Hey Shaun;

I really like the Sweet's as well. Regular use of it seems to keep rifles shooting well and fouling to a minimum. I have a Ruger 77 .220 Swift that is prone to fouling after many shots through it over the years but with a regimen of Sweet's 7.62 it stays clean and shoots better than ever. The Sweet's won't be a substitute for proper bore cleaning after use of corrosive primers though.

You might want to give JB Bore Cleaner a try on that .303. Use it per the directions. It might take a longer session and more patches with the JB than is recommended but it can make a real difference in a dark mil surp bore.

Nothing wrong with a program of thorough cleaning and shooting for several sessions to bring a bore back in line. Sometimes it just takes time.
 

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one more thing you can try.take your cleaning stuff with you to the range and shoot that rifle until that barrel is "HOT" then clean the snot out of it right there the heat will loosen up alot of that junk :cool: .I like the bench rest cleaner it does a great job.
 

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J B bore cleaner wetted down with Kroil' oil will help shine it up. You can order both from Brownells as a package deal. Everything posted so far will work as well.
 

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For removing copper-fouling I mix 50/50 Proshot IV and Kroil. Run a wet patch through, let it sit ten minutes, run a soaked brush through about ten times. let it sit ten minutes, run another soaked patch through. The second soaked patch usually pushes strands of copper out. It works good with Sweet's too, just don't let it sit long.


I have a method that sometimes cleans dark bore syndrome. I have an old one-piece Dewey rod I cut the handle off of. I screw on a brush next caliber up( for .30cal. use a .35cal brush)soak it in Hoppe's gun oil, chuck the rifle up in my Cleaning-Vise and put the rod in my Battery Drill and run the brush in and out about fifteen times at low RPM. I've cleaned up a few Carbine barrels and a K31 barrel this way.

On Corrosive ammo, If I shoot any I always take a bottle of Windex with Ammonia andwet the bore with it while still hot. seems to work, don't have any damage from corrosive primers.
HTH
Dave
 

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Definately get some J&B Bore Paste.

For a badly fouled bore, 5 or 6 applications of 10 strokes each, should get the crud out.
 
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