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I’ve been wanting a 9mm for some years and finally sprung for a performance Center M&P 9 2.0. Ive shot bullseye with a Colt Gold Cup and a custom wad gun, both with good results. I love my 625’s, 28, 19, and other revolvers. All this to say I know a little bit about shooting handguns. BUT, I can’t get the M&P out of the bottom left of the target at 25 yards.. generally if I point at the top right corner of the 24” backer I can get the results on the bottom left edge of the black. I’ve tried sandbags, two handed, one handed and an assortment of Federal and Winchester ammo. If I’m flinching or have other bad habits I cant find them. Maybe it’s ammunition? Most of my range shooting is with Winchester brown box 115 gr fmj service grade. It looks military all the way down to the crimped primers.
okay, before I take a torch and convert this to a fishing weight, can someone give me any meaningful or useful advice? I do have the same problem with a Beretta 92 and a S&w 659 that was missing rear sight when I got it.
 

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I’m sure you already know this...

 

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I’m sure you already know this...

Yep. I’ve used that in evaluating myself and a student. That’s why I went to sandbags to rule out all of this — with the same abysmal results! Thanks for trying, though!
 

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I have had a Shield for almost 8 years. Mine tends to shoot low with 115gr ammo and about right with 124gr ammo. Also, the sights are set up for a combat hold, not a target hold. You have to level your sights as always but put the whit dot on the bullseye instead of putting the bull on top of your sights. After 8 years of shooting the gun. I have concluded that the thin frame has a large role in being off to the left for a right handed shooter. It is very easy for that narrow grip area to rock to the left slightly as the trigger is pulled. so the role of the support hand is really important with this gun
 

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The small thin light frame, and a stiff trigger break contribute to jerking. But you said it happens on larger semis?
 

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I've shot enough bullseye in my life time to fill several 55-Gal drums with the empties. A Shield 9X19mm is not my idea of a bullseye competition handgun thou accuracy at what is considered typical self-defensive distances is acceptable. I simply do not do slow fire with it. We employ a humanoid target at distances of 10Yds an under. At those distances one may simply index the outline of the weapon on the target with acceptable, what is referred to as "Combat Accuracy". Yes one maybe more precise with utilization of the front sight. Body shots to a IDPA target with the body 6 inch diameter scoring circle is not that difficult to do. As a side note I can do head shots on a IDPA target at 20Yds with out that much difficulty most days but then there are the days that no one likes to talk about.
 

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I've had the Shield 2.0 for three years. It's not my idea of a bullseye competition handgun either. If I can put my shots quickly in a 4" or smaller group at 7-10 yards, that's good enough for that pistol imo.
As dennis40 and others said, it's "combat accurate."
 

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I’ve never shot mine at anything more than 10 yards because it’s a carry pistol and you don’t need to be shooting anything with it that is that far away. i have target pistols for that.
 

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Back when S&W was trying to dump the surplus of handguns they had manufactured (remember the $75 rebates and the $285 prices for the shield?) my local gun store got in a load of a couple hundred shields, and perhaps 20 Performance Center shields.

I had a chance to handle a number of them, and didn't like the Shield 1.0 trigger all that much. Then they brought out a couple of the Performance Center models. Those pistols had a very decent trigger, and I ended up buying one of those.

With improvements, I would have expected the Shield 2.0 to have improved.

The ammo you're using is standard, and should be fine. Either things are still breaking in, or there is something much less than correct about the action.

I would first try addressing technique, since you've had similar problems on two other 9mm platforms. There are three approaches.

One has you balance a nickle on the slide near the front sight, and then work to release the trigger without disturbing the coin.

A second involves dry firing a No. 2 pencil onto a piece of paper with an aiming dot taped to the wall about 5 inches in front of the barrel. Your objective is to try and minimize the spread of the pencil point dots.

The third is an excellent tool called the MantisX. This is an accelerometer that mounts to the gun (generally the rail under the barrel) and measures movement in 3 axis prior to, during and after the trigger sear release. This can provide feedback in detail about your movement and help you improve technique.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
One has you balance a nickle on the slide near the front sight, and then work to release the trigger without disturbing the coin.

A second involves dry firing a No. 2 pencil onto a piece of paper with an aiming dot taped to the wall about 5 inches in front of the barrel. Your objective is to try and minimize the spread of the pencil point dots.

The third is an excellent tool called the MantisX. This is an accelerometer that mounts to the gun (generally the rail under the barrel) and measures movement in 3 axis prior to, during and after the trigger sear release. This can provide feedback in detail about your movement and help you improve technique.
Hmmm. I hadn’t tried the pencil metod and hadn’t heard of the nickel one. I’ll try both soon as I get over my self disgust for the problem. FWIW I took out two 1911’s, a Model 19, and a model 28 last week and kept eveything in the black of a B-8 target at 25 yards. I begin too fear I’m allergic to 9mm 😊
 

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Don't beat yourself up too much... I once had a student show up with a brand new Sigma. In Basic Pistol he tried, and tried and could not consistently hit a paper plate from 15 feet... I watched him struggle and tried a few pointers but nothing seemed to work.

Finally, I asked him if I could try it. The trigger was so bad (inconsistent, soggy sear, long reset) that I could not consistently hit a target. I finally loaned him my pistol, and he proceeded to shoot accurately and without a problem.

I don't know the specifics of the Shield V2 trigger, and I don't have experience tuning it. It may be necessary to call customer service and explain that you're an experienced shooter, but that you're having problems shooting this one (out of several you own) accurately.

But... first give it a try letting it work it's way in... put several boxes of ammo through it and break it in.
 
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