Here is where I disagree. So long as you use the proper cleaning tools, wear will be inconsequential and that means no brass brushes especially. I use only nylon cleaning brushes, patch pullers with cotton (not synthetic) patches, Bore Tech Eliminator to remove copper and powder fouling followed by a patch of Hoppes 9 (because I like the smell more than anything else). Rem Oil on a patch is just as good.Many leave the factory with oil in the barrels, and some even have metal chip in a variety of places.
I always clean them. You don't want oil in a barrel because of the hydraulic effect . You don't want chips for the damage they can do. A good once over and field strip is needed.
I agree. Firearms from the factory can be really cruddy inside and the actions can be gritty from left over crud too.
I use an appropriate cleaning kit with Hoppes cleaning and lubrication chemicals or another penetrating preserving gun oil like RemOil.
I also agree with this caveat... Before discharging, run a dry patch through the barrel to remove the Rem Oil or whatever you use. You want a dry barrel. Wet barrels can and will cause more rapid fouling with jacketed pills.
Nothing fancy. Just the right stuff.
I also like "Boresnake" type cleaning ropes.
I don't, they are junk. In fact I have a couple if you want them, I'll send the to you. All a 'Boresnake' does is redeposit the crud and unburnt powder fouling you took out the first time you pulled it through and the brass brush thing does zip as well. Overpriced gadget that does nothing except deposit dirt in the tube.
NEVER use WD-40 on firearms. It's a water displacement chemical, not a lubricant or metal preservative.
I agree. WD40 is for your wife to use on squeaky hinges and for you to dry out ignition systems. I hear it's good for stuff human joints too but I don't want to stink like it. Not a pleasant smell...lol I do know it's good for yellowed headlights too, but Crest Super White toothpaste does a better job and leaves your headlights with a 'minty fresh smell'.
Do not over clean guns. You'll cause more wear than using the gun will.
I clean my firearms after EVERY time I shoot them. Especially , long guns though handguns are no exception and...
I always use a bore guide in my guns (revolvers and semi's excluded) to keep any cleaning agents out of the actions. Custom actions like Jewell and Timney for example can be ruined from solvents leaking down from the inside of the bolt carrier into the trigger group. I always use a bore guide with a tight fitting rubber end to seal the chamber and rifling from the action and I always keep the muzzle end LOWER than the butt end of any firearm. You want the solutions to rub downhill always.
I don't care what you clean with, if it's a liquid of some sort, my regimen applies.
Finally, a dry bore is a happy bore. Always pull a dry cotton patch through the bore to remove any preservative you had in there before you discharge it. That left over lubricant will cause the tube to foul quickly and causes inaccuracy too.
I have to take issue with some of your comments. Nothing personal meant and you know me well enough to not take it personal. Been doing this a long time now and on very expensive firearms.