Smith And Wesson Forums banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,765 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Wolf gun springs at www.gunsprings.com "may" be your answer to an instant trigger job.

QUOTE from their web site..."The Wolff Power Rib Mainspring dramatically improves the smoothness and consistency of trigger pull essentially eliminating stack up as well as providing optimum hammer action. This spring can usually take the place of expensive trigger jobs, with better results."

Back in the 1970's I used Lynn "Trapper" Alexiou gun springs but somewhere along the road of time they seemed to have disappeared so I switched to "Wolff" gun springs for my S&W revolver needs.

Yesterday I changed out main springs in two J-frames, one K-frame and two N-Frame S&W's.

If you're mechanically inclined just a little, changing the mainsprings only takes about 5 minutes per gun. The results were positive and simply amazing in some of my guns.

"Felt" DA trigger pulls were reduced from 30-50% depending on how well used the gun was and how wide it's trigger is.

A well used gun with an already slick action which has a wide trigger will give you a greater perception of reduced DA pull.

With just a little of your time and a $4.29 investment for J-frames ($12 for K, L & N frames) you may get the results of a $175 professional trigger job.

The only caveat with reduced power mainsprings is that you should "double check" your gun's reliability on a number of different brands of ammo BEFORE using them for anything other than target practice.

Anyone else experienced this type of results?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,929 Posts
Yes. Kind of.
Changed out the springs in an old Brazilian because I thought they were original to the gun and went with factory weight springs. It was scarey light before. Just right when done.
I changed the hammer spring in my Encore frame and that was a transformation to an almost Heaven sent trigger pull
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
239 Posts
I put the "Wolff Power Rib Mainspring" in a Model 64 around 20 years ago. It was not a reduced power spring. It did smooth things out a little, as I recall, but I don't remember it being magic. I need to replace the underweight spring somebody put in my 10-8 before I bought it. Maybe it's time to try another Wolff Power Rib.
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Works like a charm...most of the time.

I'd caution that CCI primers are harder than most brands, and you might find that cartridges loaded with them will suffer from light primer strikes. Federal and Winchester primers will give more reliable ignition, if that is the case...

giz
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
593 Posts
A spring here, a spring there. I wish Spring would arrive here so I could go shooting.
Rain, Wind, Cold. nvnpngp tnbtlaa
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
829 Posts
Boingggg! hpzl;n; lsk705
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
828 Posts
I've tried the power rib springs and they seem to even out the flex just a bit, but you can get the same results from carefully matching OEM spring to strain screw length. You need a box full of spares to do that, so the Wolff springs would be simpler. Smooth is still better than light, though.

David
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,765 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Smooth is still better than light, though.
I agree. One easy way to "help" smooth out a J-frame's DA trigger pull is to polish the main spring strut before replacing the main spring and re-installing it.

I use Mother's Mag Wheel polish and a small buffing wheel on a Dremel tool. You can polish the strut's spring contact area and the hammer contact point to a mirror shine in minutes without removing precious metal.

And as I said earlier "if" you're going to switch to a lower weight main spring test fire a couple of boxes of your favorite "defensive" ammo before relying on it to save your hide.

Try slow deliberate SA fire, then slow and rapid DA fire; if primer ignition is 100% reliable in each of these drills you should be OK.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,171 Posts
OK, nobody has said it yet so I will...how about just backing off the strain screw on a K, L, or N frame, and on a J frame, snipping a coil off the mainspring with a pair of side-cutters?! :eek: :shock: Who really needs a firm primer strike anyhow?!?!? :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,765 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I personally don't care for backing off the strain screw on K, L or N frames.

Back in the day we filed (or ground) off about 1/32nd of an inch off of each side of the center of the flat main spring to get the desired "lighter" DA trigger pull.

On J-frames the ole snip a coil gig can work well too if one doesn't get too carried away.

Trust me I know...I should have stopped at two coils on one but went three. Got a great DA pull but only about 90% reliability, soooo I ended up spending $4.29 for a new Wolff spring that did it right.
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Moondawg..Trapper still makes springs,Its all I use.I spoke to him last year on the phone before he came here for a trip.
Here is his details

Trapper Gun Inc
30183 Gratiot Ave
Roseville, MI 48066
(586) 776-7581

Ken
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,765 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the info Ken I'll check him out.

His 1970's products were great (with one exception in my experience) S&W rebound springs.

Back then they were a little on the light side and I had trouble with proper trigger returns...but then again this was over 35 years ago.

His J-frame mainsprings were "off the hook fine" and gave DA trigger pulls as good as the best trigger jobs. weiweinp fnovnpoa weiweinp fnovnpoa
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
753 Posts
The last time I checked S&W won't do trigger jobs on J frames. So if you want a lighter pull as a carry piece, you need to take it to a private shop or do it yourself. Just make sure it fires everything afterwards. It's your life on the line if you don't prove your trigger job is 100% reliable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,765 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Just make sure it fires everything afterwards. It's your life on the line if you don't prove your trigger job is 100% reliable.
That's why I said after changing springs one should test fire their defensive ammo in the all the following modes...
1. Deliberate & Slow "Single Action"
2. Deliberate & Slow "Double Action"
3. Fast and Furious "Double Action"

If you don't get 100% primer ignition in all of these modes go to a heavier after market spring or back to the factory spring.

You wouldn't trust your life to a seat belt, air bag, parachute or fire extinguisher that worked 90% of the time...and you shouldn't do the same with the self defense gun.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
I changed out my springs last week with the wolf setup. Mainspring and 13 Lb reset spring. Worked great. I wish I had a trigger scale. DA got smoothed out and maybe reduced by 1 lb. SA is maybe a 1.5 to 2 lbs. Real crisp. I have 200 rounds though it with zero FTF and my groups have gotten smaller.

Best 15 bucks I've spent on the revolver yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,765 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
ncOoaao That's what I've been talking about.

Why spend $150-$200 on an action job when a $15 mainspring replacement can get similar results?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
273 Posts
I watch a lot of revolvers shoot IDPA competition, and shoot a fair amount with S&W revolvers myself. Seen lots of fail to fire. If you want light best thing to do is make sure everything is smooth. Backing off on the strain screw or going to real light springs is likely to give problems ignition wise. You can't make up for rough fits and parts by simply reducing spring tension.

My gunsmith charges 65 bucks for an action job and uses the springs that came with the gun for 100 % reliability. He will put light springs in but won't guarantee ignition except with loads tuned to the lock work. His work is worth it in my book.

Boats
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top