Welcome. And yes - you definitely need to buy a working revolver. Lots of great advice has surfaced.
Welcome. And yes - you definitely need to buy a working revolver. Lots of great advice has surfaced.Thank you. Since I do not have a working Smith and Wesson revolver, I should buy one. Right?![]()
I also have Colt, Ruger, Uberti, and Taurus revolvers but I have the highest opinion of those post-WWII up to about 1990 S&W's and I really like the pre-model 5-screw guns. I'm not crazy about the current S&W's. I find them equal to or barely better than the offerings from Taurus. Yes, I said it! I have a Taurus Tracker .45 Colt that has a trigger pull from the factory better than any current S&W I've handled, and it's just as accurate.That is a great start then - family history right there.
I am not brand specific with wheelies - Taurus, Ruger, S&W, I like 'em all. Lol
Or buy 4, all .357 magnum, in all 4 frame sizes, J, K, L, and N!No, you should buy at least 4. A 38 Spc, .357 mag, 44 mag and buyers choice .22, .22 mag, 9mm, 45 ACP or LC, 41mag, etc... And that's just in the revolvers.
That's one of those rabbit holes I try to stay out of, with some measure of both failure and success. The success is, I've avoided J and L frames, the failures are that I've got multiples in K and N frames. Where do you draw the line to stop at? If you went for all four frame sizes, then you have to get at least one of each model in each frame; then you have to get a nickel and a blue of each model of each frame, as well as a stainless model, and then you start working on one each of those in every barrel length. It's like opening a bag of potato chips and trying to eat only a couple.Or buy 4, all .357 magnum, in all 4 frame sizes, J, K, L, and N!
The line is at X frames....and at this point a safe place to store them, my storage is full!That's one of those rabbit holes I try to stay out of, with some measure of both failure and success. The success is, I've avoided J and L frames, the failures are that I've got multiples in K and N frames. Where do you draw the line to stop at? If you went for all four frame sizes, then you have to get at least one of each model in each frame; then you have to get a nickel and a blue of each model of each frame, as well as a stainless model, and then you start working on one each of those in every barrel length. It's like opening a bag of potato chips and trying to eat only a couple.
I always recommend a 4" K frame .357 mag. with adjustable sights for a first revolver. Big enough to shoot easily, not too big and ungainly to conceal, powerful enough with .357's, reduced recoil shooting .38 special. It's kind of a "Goldilocks Gun", just right.Thank you. Since I do not have a working Smith and Wesson revolver, I should buy one. Right?![]()