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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello, new to the forums. Seeking some information on an Model 586 I recently acquired as part of a trade. The owner of my local gun store believes its a late 70's model and it has a Target Hammer, Trigger, and Sights but not Grips. There is no dash after the model number. There is a G10 etched near the serial and is only visible when the cylinder is open. I think this is the inspectors mark but am unsure. Looking for general knowledge and value. I can provide additional pictures upon request.

IMG_25831.jpg InkedIMG_25821_LI.jpg InkedIMG_25861_LI.jpg InkedIMG_25851_LI.jpg
 

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The 586 was first made in June of 1980. The earliest known example has a serial number of AAA0003. The dash 1 was introduced in 1986
They were at serial number AHA0667 by Jan. of 85 and at ALA-ALC by Nov of 85
 

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welcome01 to the forums from the Wiregrass! To be more accurate, we need all 3 of the letter prefix. At any rate, your gun was made in 1985 or 86 just before the 586-1 began production. I can tell from the model number that it was never sent back to S&W for a recall where they replaced the hammer nose and hammer nose bushing due to jamming with some manufacturer's ammunition. My understanding is that particular ammo is no longer being manufactured so, I guess the matter is moot. You are correct on the G10.

These L frame handguns are some of the finest shooting wheel guns on the planet. I'm sure you'll enjoy shooting yours.
 

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Welcome to the forum from Texas!

It would help to know the first several characters of the serial to pin it down more. My no-dash 586 is ADM5xxx and dates to roughly November 1983. A 686 (stainless sister) no-dash AHE3xxx dates to 1985, and another 586 (a -3) BFE1xxx dates to roughly Sept 1989.

That is an excellent gun, one of S&W's better results! The K/L grips fit more hands than the N-Frame larger cousins. The 586 was a response to the slightly smaller K-Frames not being able to handle a long and steady diet of .357 magnum rounds. The L-Frame used the same grips, but the rest of the frame was enlarged just a tad.

Please also note that due to ATF rules, every gun from a given manufacturer had to have a distinct serial number. Some of S&W's earlier offerings could overlap and even replicate serials. So they finally got away from single-letter prefixes and went to the 3-alpha prefix. Not absolutely exactly, but close, every gun coming off the line(s) got the next ABCnnnn prefix in line. So we could have Model 19s and 586s and Model 27s with sequential numbers, but varying models. The S&W catalog lists known prefixes, but I believe I have an Axx prefix they don't mention. I'll have to fish that one out of the safe and confirm I didn't transpose a letter when I recorded the prefix.

So pull up a stump, set a spell and tell us more about that 586, how she shoots, and all that good stuff!
 

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Hey CX,

Welcome to :bluelogo:

Way to go! Pics of a great 586...........on your first post!!

Don't worry, you get bored with it (how could that be possible? LOL).............just send it here! LOL

If it were me, would "stock up" on .38 ammo....................and do my best to "wear that 586 out"!! LOL

Later, Mark
 
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thank you guys for the info. I took it out yesterday and it shot marvelously. The serial is AJY84XX.

Also, am i right in discerning that this is a pinned and recessed unit? Revolvers have never really been my thing so this is mostly new to me.
 

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Your revolver is not pinned or recessed. The picture of the back of your cylinder shows no recess, and side shots show no pin. If it were pinned there would be a small bump at the junction of the barrel to the frame, near the top of the barrel.

Pinned barrel.jpg

Recessed cylinders will have a cutout where the rim of the cartridge enters and the back of the cartridge is flush with the back of the cylinder. As a result the gap between the back of the cylinder and recoil plate is very narrow (see above picture). Where not recessed, the rim is clearly visible from the side, even with the cylinder closed.

Cylinder.JPG

These features required extra machining steps, and were generally dropped around the time of the -3 releases (not 100% but a representative engineering change - my model 29-3 is not P&R, but a 29-2 is). In reality the function of the guns are not affected. People like P&R guns because they are not made anymore, and the quality of workmanship at that time tended to be superb.
 

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Thank you guys for the info. I took it out yesterday and it shot marvelously. The serial is AJY84XX.

Also, am i right in discerning that this is a pinned and recessed unit? Revolvers have never really been my thing so this is mostly new to me.
The 586/686 was never produced as a pinned and recessed gun. The pinned barrel and recessed cylinders were being phased out in other models about the same time the 586/686 were introduced.
As far as the 586/686 line goes though, the one you have is desirable as it has all forged parts and the firing pin on the hammer, and it does not have the integrated lock.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
You guys are an absolute treasure trove of knowledge.

Now to the 2nd part of my question then, in a private sale what would this go for? I'm honestly not much into revolvers so will likely look to turn it over in the near future. Doesn't much deserve to sit in my safe for an eternity with how nice it appears.
 

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Welcome aboard.
That's a beautiful gun.

According to the 4th edition, your serial number is not reported. But it should be 85 or 86.
As for value,
20180329_185043.jpg

Much seems to depend on features the gun has.
Those features vary by barrel length for some of it.
Like already posted, I'd try to wear it out.
Good luck.
 

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Good way to know what the market is bearing is to go to Gunbroker.com - they are an online auction site.

go to SEARCH, Select advanced then click on the completed auctions tab. Once there enter S&W 586 and press enter.

You will see a list of completed auctions - most of which will show 0 bids. Some folks will post the same gun every week for it seems like years looking for a certain price, and never get it. So look for auctions where there has been at least 1 bid.

Of those, a fair number will have had a reserve price which wasn't met, so the gun didn't sell. Lots of times they have a "buy now" price that's at least the reserve. If SOLD, then look at condition and accessories, compared to yours. That should give you an estimate of the value of yours.

You can then post it for sale here, but you need to specify a price. Most folks like to use USPS money orders as they are real secure and no issues with them bouncing. We'd love to have first crack at it!!

Or put it up for auction and see what happens. Folks here will advise you to put it up with a penny start, no reserve. Shows you're committed to selling it. Make sure the auction closes on a Sunday night to get the most weekend exposure - activity on the bids can be frantic for a really nice gun, and all in the last hours. Regardless how you sell it, you will have to ship it TO an FFL - so you will need those credentials from the buyer, and put a copy in the box. FedEx is prolly the best way to ship. If your FFL ships, he can use the USPS. Some folks demand you send your gun from your FFL to their FFL (one too many FFL's per Atf regs). That adds a measure of cost as both FFL's will want a transfer fee. So be sure to specify that in your listing - something like "Selling price is plus $50 for shipping to YOUR FFL. If they insist I ship through MY FFL, it's an additional $xx".
 

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You guys are an absolute treasure trove of knowledge.

Now to the 2nd part of my question then, in a private sale what would this go for? I'm honestly not much into revolvers so will likely look to turn it over in the near future. Doesn't much deserve to sit in my safe for an eternity with how nice it appears.
In my area that would sell for $600 at most. The 4 inch barrel seems to be slightly more popular and could go $650...maybe. I have seen a few of them for sale around here in the past year or so. When a 6 inch is priced at $650 it remains for sale and eventually I will see a price drop to $600. Of course I don't know what they really sell for. The seller may end up accepting somewhat less than his asking price of $600. I have seen them priced at $550 and they seem to go pretty quick. In general, revolvers sell for a bit less in my area than in other parts of the US. In some areas from what I have seen a buyer would gladly pay $600 to 650 for an older 586
 

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Welcome to the forum! Really nice 586 you got there. thanks for sharing the pics, we like those here.:)
 
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Gun sales, in general, are down right now. Keep in mind that gunbroker will want a cut...at least 15%...and I believe they just added a relisting fee to drive sellers to ask reasonable prices and stop repeatedly relisting at a price the gun just won't sell for. Then add in the FFL transfer fee and shipping costs which you may get the buyer to pay. But, you probably won't be able to get $650 on gunbroker with the buyer paying 2 FFL fees and shipping. My suggestion is to try armslist.com first and sell in your area. They don't charge you to list a gun, and by selling locally you may not have to pay an FFL transfer fee or shipping. You can also list the gun here in the classifieds forum as a local sale to see if you can move it without an FFL or shipping. Some members here are known to drive a couple of hours each way to buy a gun. Just remember that you must sell in state to avoid having to use an FFL to transfer the gun. It is also legal to ship in state to a buyer without an FFL because the gun is not transferred across state lines. However, you must use a common carrier as the USPS will not ship handguns from individuals.
 
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Oh, the 586. One of the guns I regret selling was a 586 that I picked up at auction in North Carolina a few years ago for $350. It was one of the silkiest revolvers I ever owned. One afternoon I got really excited about owning a Model 649 when I found a really superb one, and I ended up doing an even trade on the 586. The 649 is a fine gun, but I really should have kept the big gun.

Smith & Wesson will perform the recall on the firing pin at their expense (which includes shipping to an from the factory), so that might be an option worth considering. My experience with S&W is that they'll tend to do a pretty thorough job of going through the gun while they have it, so you may end up with a gun that's a little tighter and better timed than you did before. They're doing the recall on a no dash 686 of mine right now, and I'm very much looking forward to getting that gun out to the range when it arrives back.

Enjoy it.

Mike
 
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