Smith And Wesson Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, Newbie here trying to learn how to use this forum and find out some info on a revolver I inherited.
I know you all like pictures but I am having trouble with upload speed right now so maybe later. The piece is a blued black, 6in barreled, walnut checkered grips, swing out cylinder 38 special with fixed sites. The serial number on butt, right grip and area on barrel above cylinder rod is 444***. There is no model #, just assembly numbers on yoke, etc.. This is a five screw with no butt accessories, the bluing is worn but no rust is present, although there does seem to be a small amount of pitting on the frame. The action is a double action. Mostly it looks and feels like a well used pistol with a few nicks and holster wear. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. If I left anything out, except pics, please ask and I will answer as best I know. CEW
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,541 Posts
Welcome aboard!
Sounds like an M&P - ancestor to the Model 10.
But that is just a best guess based on the description.
Pictures are really the essential data point for positive ID and any estimation of condition or value.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jeepnut and Curt360

·
Registered
Joined
·
27,108 Posts
Hi and welcome to the forum. Pics would help with answering your questions and we'd love to see the older classic.;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: jeepnut

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,958 Posts
Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! Your 38 M&P revolver was made in the early to mid 1920s. If it has a made in USA stamp on the right front of the frame, it was made after 1922. The grips should be Walnut checkered with a smooth round top. From the condition you describe, it's a shooter and would likely sell in the $400 range plus or minus around here.

Guy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,899 Posts
Welcome to the forum from NE Georgia. Great S&W classic gun. Look forward to pics.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Curt360

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi and Thanks for all the welcomes. Here are some pics. Maybe they will help, maybe you will need better quality to help me. Sorry it took so long but had trouble with my internet . Thanks for all the help, any advice on cleaning all the crud on the working mechs would be appreciated too. CEW
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,541 Posts
Looks like a 5" M&P 38 Special from early 1920's. The one line Made In USA roll stamping under the cylinder on the right side was replaced with the longer 4 line address with tradmark roll stamping in late 1922-early 1923.
It appears to have been refinished based on the slightly enlarged sideplate seam and the blued finish on the trigger and hammer - which should be case-hardened and colored. Thought it looks like the refinish was pretty well done. There also appears to be some slight pitting to the surface of the sideplate. The grips appear to be original with more wear to the right one than the left - which is typical for a gun carried in holster by a right handed shooter.
Monetary value would probably be somewhere in the $250-$350 range as a nice old shooter with some history - since the refinish negates collector value. Of course if it has sentimental value due to family connections, that is priceless.
It should be safe to shoot as much standard pressure ammo as you can afford to buy through it. But bare lead bullets are best since that is what it was designed for and you should avoid shooting much +P high pressure ammo in it due to its age. A little won't hurt since it was built with a heat treated cylinder, but hot ammo will just accelerate wear and the benefit is minimal unless you are trying to use it to kill something man-sized or bigger.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Curt360

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,958 Posts
The one line Made In USA roll stamping under the cylinder on the right side was replaced with the longer 4 line address with tradmark roll stamping in late 1922-early 1923.
This is not correct. The one line stamp was implemented in 1922. The 4 line stamp came along in 1948. I think Absalom's SWAG on when it was made is pretty close without a letter.

To clean that thing up, mix up equal parts of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Remove the grips and dump the gun into that mixture in a sealable container and let it marinate for about a week. Then pull it out and scrub it with a copper or bronze wool pad. An all copper Chore Boy pad will work. You also need a bronze brush and a bore brush to get down the barrel and through the cylinder chambers. To make it easier to clean the cylinder, loosen or remove the lower front sideplate screw (don't lose it or put it in any other screw hole). Then, you can open the cylinder and pull it and the yoke toward the muzzle to remove them from the frame. If you are not too timid, you can remove the other sideplate screws and the sideplate and clean the innards. DO NOT mix these screws up with the yoke screw you removed to pull the cylinder. To remove the sideplate with the screws out, hold the barrel and frame in one hand and rap the grip frame sharply with the wooden or plastic handle of a tool or a rubber mallet. It will pop free and expose the action. I like to use aerosol carb/parts/brake cleaner to flush all the grime from the action. It will remove all the lubrication so don't forget to put a spare 5 drops of gun oil (or ATF) on the moving parts before reassembling. To put the sideplate back on, start by inserting it at the top screw hole then press down the sideplate. It is okay to tap it back into place. The plate was swaged to the frame and is usually very tight. It is really quite easy to work on these guns. There are YouTube videos if you want more instruction.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
BC38, Thank you for the input. You may have missed in my long winded 1st post but this is a 6 inch shooter. Nice catch on the refinish, I thought you were seeing something that wasn't there due to poor lighting in pictures. However, after looking at the piece again I can see the case hardening only where there has been wear, again I say great catch. you are all great. Now, any advice on cleaning out the gunk causing it difficult to use as a double action. I can see it but not comfortable tearing it all down to get it clean. Thanks, CEW
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Wiregrass, Thanks, just the boost I needed to get this piece cleaned up. We must have been both replying at the same time, as your reply wasn't there when I started mine. CEW
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top