In the US, it is called the "cylinder." It is also referred to colloquially as "the wheel." And, revolvers are sometimes called "wheel guns." Makes sense to have a "wheel gun" on a bike, n'est-ce pas ainsi?
In the US, it is called the "cylinder." It is also referred to colloquially as "the wheel." And, revolvers are sometimes called "wheel guns." Makes sense to have a "wheel gun" on a bike, n'est-ce pas ainsi?we use the word drum (trommel) for the part that contains the cartridges.
Sounds like your fellow shooters aren't a lot different from many over here, they need constant reminders of what the "dangerous end" of a gun is.Even at the shooting club, most members come once a month because otherwise they lose their license, without actually asking themselves questions about the gun they use. They usually know with difficulty where the front of the weapon is located. I want to know the details about everything. Am curious by nature.
I notice you have a very nice case for your S&W. Any idea where I could buy it? Here I have already tried everything but except in plastic there is nothing that I like. A wooden case is class.
Have a nice day, Eric
Éric, bienvenue sur le forum. Vos photographies confirment que votre revolver est un superbe revolver S&W nickelé d'usine. Il semble être en très bon état. Toutes nos félicitations. Vous trouverez des compagnons de route parmi les BVVW. Ce site répertorie quelques organisations d'intérêt : Belgium – FESAC![]() J'ai pris la parole il y a quelques années au Musée Curtius à Liège lors d'un colloque sur Paul Mauser. Je suis historien à temps partiel et j'ai donné des conférences sur Josef Nickl, l'un des armuriers Mauser qui a été inclus dans la biographie de Paul Mauser que j'ai éditée avec des auteurs belges et néerlandais. Nous avons été accueillis par le président du BVVW. Belgische Vereniging Van Wapenverzamelaars - BVVWBelgische vereniging van wapenverzamelaars, door en voor verzamelaars! Bezoek onze site voor meer info.
www.bvvw.be
Il existe une culture florissante d'amateurs et de collectionneurs d'armes à feu en Belgique, et c'est un plaisir de travailler avec mes amis là-bas et de me rendre visite lorsque je suis en Europe. Mon endroit préféré pour atterrir est Bruxelles avec des connexions exceptionnelles vers l'Allemagne et la France où j'ai des parents. |
Hello everyone. I am a new member of this forum, living in Belgium, on the border with France, about 200 km from Paris, to give you an idea of my area. I'm also the proud owner of a beautiful weapon, the Smith&Wesson Mod 27-2.
I bought that gun a few years ago and since then I've heard all kinds of stories about my revolver in the club. When I bought it I was told it was a revolver from the 1970s, but now I already heard that it is probably older. Someone who can help me? The serial number is N60 95 10 and on the barrel it says S&W 357 MAGNUM.
Thanks in advance because in Europe it is not easy to gather information about firearms.
Sorry for my English, I use google translate.
Understand and speak English but writing is a bit more
Nice collection. Do you sSE Pennsylvania up at 5:45 every day. Enjoy reading posts. Your should not be afraid to remove the grips. Sometimes rust can develop. Loosen the screw part way and push on it to loosen the opposite side before you fully remove it, careful remove it might have the serial number on the right panal. The experts can tell yo U more about the grips and any features your gun might have. My collection consists of mostly the old ones
Welcome to the forum.. I have the exact one you have, i collect smiths, and the model 27 pre 1982, pinned barrel is a CLASS ACT, with all that checkering down the top and barrel,, and i love the partridge front sight like my Target Masterpieces.. The model 27 traces its roots back to the originalHello everyone. I am a new member of this forum, living in Belgium, on the border with France, about 200 km from Paris, to give you an idea of my area. I'm also the proud owner of a beautiful weapon, the Smith&Wesson Mod 27-2.
I bought that gun a few years ago and since then I've heard all kinds of stories about my revolver in the club. When I bought it I was told it was a revolver from the 1970s, but now I already heard that it is probably older. Someone who can help me? The serial number is N60 95 10 and on the barrel it says S&W 357 MAGNUM.
Thanks in advance because in Europe it is not easy to gather information about firearms.
Sorry for my English, I use google translate.
Understand and speak English but writing is a bit more difficult.
Sounds like your fellow shooters aren't a lot different from many over here, they need constant reminders of what the "dangerous end" of a gun is.However, there are no compulsory competence rules here, our Constitutional law allows any idiot with money to own a gun, as long as they have not been convicted of a felony.
As for the wooden case, the Model 27 came from the factory for a period of time shipped in one like mine, and the case size varied with the barrel length of the revolver. Some models were shipped in a package with the traditional cardboard box and also had a presentation case with them, but M27's shipped in the presentation case. Originals can be found, but as with anything collectible, it will have a price dependent on the condition. The inside of the case has a vacuformed insert with a blue "flocking", something like a blown in fuzz that is glued in place. The insert is thin and will tear or split with age and use, and the flocking wears off. You can see that mine is not pristine. The case is usually not used as a storage container, the flocking comes off and gets into the gunworks, it can hold moisture and damage the gun if left untended for a long time. I only have the presentation case for two of my revolvers, and I do store the guns in them (limited space in my safe), but I frequently take them out to wipe them down or admire them, and when replaced in the case they are wrapped in a silicone impregnated cloth to protect them.
I've only been to Belgium once, and I don't really know exactly where I was, except it wasn't far across the border with Germany. I was stationed at the time (1991) at Ramstein AB, and had gone to a firing range with a combat arms training class for a Mk19 familiarization course. Going to the class was an oddity in itself, as I was a non-combatant aircrew member (Flight Nurse), but had the opportunity to train on several weapon systems while I was there.
Welcome to the forum.. I have the exact one you have, i collect smiths, and the model 27 pre 1982, pinned barrel is a CLASS ACT, with all that checkering down the top and barrel,, and i love the partridge front sight like my Target Masterpieces.. The model 27 traces its roots back to the original
"registered magnums" of the 1930s...I think the nickel finish gives it a classy look.. Think i will be buried with mine! Lol.. Lol..
Nice collection. Do you s
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hoot them also? Wheelguns are really enjoyable to shoot to me and looks are so superior to the autos IMHO. Thank you for sharing.
That's great you are able to do yhat. I live in a rural area so either public land right outside town or my family farm. Shooting 357 in your revolver will not damage it with factory loads as the weapon is made for it. You will save a lot if money shooting 38 special in it though but if ammo is short at least you can shoot.I'm in a shooting club where I can go shooting every Monday.
I do that almost every Monday (it's a 150 km round trip) and fire about 150 rounds a month.
I wouldn't worry about shooting lots of magnum loads in your M27. It's the same frame as the larger caliber .41 and .44 Magnums, and there isn't an issue with them, so shoot what you can find and enjoy the revolver. Stick with factory-loaded ammo, unless you reload for yourself, and then you can make lighter loads if you want.The only question I have left is this: I avoid using magnum cartridges as much as possible so as not to put too much pressure on the drum. Am I crazy and doesn't it matter? Or should I be careful indeed and try to save the weapon as much as possible? I fire about 150 rounds a month. I'd hate to see something break with my gun. The problem at the moment with the war in Ukraine is that there is a shortage of cartridges and so sometimes it is a magnum or nothing.
Weapon chests are very hard to find here, but I'll keep looking for them. I also plan to come to the USA for a road trip, and then I suspect that I will be able to find something for my weapon. I have already bought ( and received ) a nice weapon belt at Cochise Leather Tombstone. Now I'm still looking for a detailed work plan to disassemble and check my revolver. Thank you for your answer.I wouldn't worry about shooting lots of magnum loads in your M27. It's the same frame as the larger caliber .41 and .44 Magnums, and there isn't an issue with them, so shoot what you can find and enjoy the revolver. Stick with factory-loaded ammo, unless you reload for yourself, and then you can make lighter loads if you want.
Don't give up on finding a nice presentation case, they're nice to have and a nickel M27 deserves one to be displayed in.
I wonder if like me you also sometimes have problems with the screw that holds the drum. That screw has already come loose 2 times and has fallen out so that the drum is also loose. Fortunately, the drum has not yet fallen on the stones. I am considering tightening the screw with loctite but I don't know if this is a good idea. What do you think? (I mean the screw on the right side, just above the trigger). EricI also think it's a powerful weapon. But burying that ...... put that off for a long time![]()
Weapon chests are very hard to find here, but I'll keep looking for them. I also plan to come to the USA for a road trip, and then I suspect that I will be able to find something for my weapon. I have already bought ( and received ) a nice weapon belt at Cochise Leather Tombstone. Now I'm still looking for a detailed work plan to disassemble and check my revolver. Thank you for your answer.
Check the threads in the frame to make sure they aren't stripped. Sounds like someone else has been needlessly disassembling the revolver over the years. If the gun locks up properly, times like it should, and isn't terribly dirty and functions properly, there's no need to disassemble it.I wonder if like me you also sometimes have problems with the screw that holds the drum. That screw has already come loose 2 times and has fallen out so that the drum is also loose. Fortunately, the drum has not yet fallen on the stones. I am considering tightening the screw with loctite but I don't know if this is a good idea. What do you think? (I mean the screw on the right side, just above the trigger). Eric
Thank you for the information. The revolver is really in excellent condition, so I don't think the previous owner neglected it. I have now carefully screwed in the screw as you indicated and used some blue locktite. Wondering at the next shooting session if the screw will stay put, but I think so. Have a nice day and thanks again. EricCheck the threads in the frame to make sure they aren't stripped. Sounds like someone else has been needlessly disassembling the revolver over the years. If the gun locks up properly, times like it should, and isn't terribly dirty and functions properly, there's no need to disassemble it.
The side plate screw that holds the yoke in place is a fitted screw, but otherwise identical to the other visible side plate screw. The one that is under the stocks is flat-headed and shouldn't be used where the yoke retention screw goes. If you replace the yoke retention screw, it should be lightly threaded into its hole with the yoke in place, until you start meeting resistance. Note the amount the head protrudes from the frame. Remove the screw and lightly file the threads nearest the screw tip a little at a time, replacing the screw each time and turning it until it meets resistance. When the screw will fit flush without resistance, carefully open the cylinder and see if the yoke meets resistance, If it does, close the cylinder, remove the screw and work on it a little more. The idea is to have the screw fully seated, but the yoke will open without resistance and does not have any end play when open. If the threads aren't stripped, or are slightly, you can try a drop of BLUE Loctite, but not RED.
Oh yea.. Dont worry at ALL about the model 27/28 and magnum loads.. These are big N frame guns, meant for 44 magnum loads.. You have a 44 mag gun drilled for "only" a 357! Until the Ruger Gp100s, the model 27/28 were the strongest 357s out there.. Ive run some brutal 357 loads in model 28..STUFFED FULL OF H-110, and it didn care.. 20 yrs worth😁 At night it looks like flame thrower.. Lol.. K frame 357s diff story...I wouldn't worry about shooting lots of magnum loads in your M27. It's the same frame as the larger caliber .41 and .44 Magnums, and there isn't an issue with them, so shoot what you can find and enjoy the revolver. Stick with factory-loaded ammo, unless you reload for yourself, and then you can make lighter loads if you want.
Don't give up on finding a nice presentation case, they're nice to have and a nickel M27 deserves one to be displayed in.