Your English is fine 6:00 AM here now, someone will be along soon to help. Is n609510 the number on the butt of the gun. My book says the model 27-2 was made 1961 to 1980. 1969 the N prefix added. The N 600000's were made 1979-1980
Dan
Dan
Well, that explains wiregrass.Welcome to the forums from the cotton and peanut covered plains of the Wiregrass! The Wiregrass is an area along the borders of the states of Alabama, Georgia and Florida that was once heavily forested by pine trees. Wiregrass is a type of grass that grows under pine forests. Its seeds are germinated by fire that occurs naturally due to pine nettles being set afire from lightning.
Bienvenue sur les forums des plaines couvertes de coton et d'arachides des Wiregrass ! Le Wiregrass est une zone le long des frontières des États de l'Alabama, de la Géorgie et de la Floride qui était autrefois fortement boisée de pins. Wiregrass est un type d'herbe qui pousse sous les forêts de pins. Ses graines sont germées par le feu qui se produit naturellement en raison des orties de pin incendiées par la foudre.
Hello everyone. I am a new member of this forum, living in Belgium, on the border with France, about 200 km from Paris, to give you an idea of my area. I'm also the proud owner of a beautiful weapon, the Smith&Wesson Mod 27-2.
I bought that gun a few years ago and since then I've heard all kinds of stories about my revolver in the club. When I bought it I was told it was a revolver from the 1970s, but now I already heard that it is probably older. Someone who can help me? The serial number is N60 95 10 and on the barrel it says S&W 357 MAGNUM.
Thanks in advance because in Europe it is not easy to gather information about firearms.
Sorry for my English, I use google translate.
Understand and speak English but writing is a bit more difficult.
You have the showpiece of the modern S&W revolver. Your revolver looks like nickel plated, correct? The light reflections make is a bit difficult to tell. I understand wanting an older gun, but I believe the 1970's to be the ultimate generation for S&W revolvers. Many changes were made during the 1950's, 60's and '70s to improve them, such as changing the extractor rod threads to left-hand so they would be less likely to loosen during firing. The fit and finish on 50's through 70's guns was the best of all, and then from the 1980's on, the changes were more to streamline manufacturing processes and make production less expensive. Features like the pinned barrel disappeared, and the recessed charge holes on magnum calibers also disappeared. Later came frame changes and the advent of MIM parts, the internal lock and changes to the firing pin. There was also less hand-fitting done, which was an expensive, hand labor-intensive process. The replacement for hand fitting was the use of CNC machined parts, but I don't believe it made hand fitting less necessary for a mechanism as fine as a revolver.Thanks for the info. I had actually hoped the revolver was a little older. Anyway, it remains my pride without a doubt. The number is only visible when the drum is pushed aside. The butt is full of wood and I don't dare to open the screw properly so as not to cause damage. It is currently 12:30 pm here. You are an early riser![]()
Thanks for the very clear explanation. And I understand that I made a very good purchase. I bought the weapon about 3 years ago for 500 Euro. I bought it myself because as a former police officer, after much insistence, I was allowed to exchange our Belgium FN 7.36 mm pistol for an S&W .38 that I, as a motorcyclist, could operate with one hand while driving. Moreover, I think that FN gun was only dangerous if you could throw it at someoneYou have the showpiece of the modern S&W revolver. Your revolver looks like nickel plated, correct? The light reflections make is a bit difficult to tell. I understand wanting an older gun, but I believe the 1970's to be the ultimate generation for S&W revolvers. Many changes were made during the 1950's, 60's and '70s to improve them, such as changing the extractor rod threads to left-hand so they would be less likely to loosen during firing. The fit and finish on 50's through 70's guns was the best of all, and then from the 1980's on, the changes were more to streamline manufacturing processes and make production less expensive. Features like the pinned barrel disappeared, and the recessed charge holes on magnum calibers also disappeared. Later came frame changes and the advent of MIM parts, the internal lock and changes to the firing pin. There was also less hand-fitting done, which was an expensive, hand labor-intensive process. The replacement for hand fitting was the use of CNC machined parts, but I don't believe it made hand fitting less necessary for a mechanism as fine as a revolver.
Don't be worried about removing the stocks, which is the S&W terminology for the wooden grips. The single screw in the middle is all that needs to be removed, but the stocks may fit tightly enough they will stay in place with the screw removed. Proper way to remove them is to back the screw until it disengages the opposite stock, then push on the screw to dislodge the opposite side stock. Then both halves can be removed. There will be several markings stamped into the butt frame, which are inspection marks and production line numbers that you will also see in other areas of the revolver; on the bottom of the butt frame will also be the serial number of the revolver, which on yours is also duplicated inside the yoke cut.
I notice you used "drum" to describe what we call in English the cylinder. Is it "Trommel" to you? I read another recent post where someone used the term. The holes are called either "charge holes" or "chambers". The arm that the cylinder swings on is the yoke, in S&W terminology, also referred to as the crane for other brands such as Colt.
Be very proud of that revolver. Here's mine, made in 1977 and except for the finish, identical to yours:
View attachment 600031
The Model 27 is the ONLY S&W revolver to have the nice, finely checkered barrel rib and sight/top strap
Sure thing. Oil is added. Salutations de la vieille Europe......Eric, don't hesitate to remove the grips. Do what 59dexta stated. It is a good thing to remove them and have a look if nothing more than satisfying a curiosity. A little oil wouldn't hurt.
Yep.. the number is N609510.Your English is fine 6:00 AM here now, someone will be along soon to help. Is n609510 the number on the butt of the gun. My book says the model 27-2 was made 1961 to 1980. 1969 the N prefix added. The N 600000's were made 1979-1980
Dan
Welcome to the forums from the cotton and peanut covered plains of the Wiregrass! The Wiregrass is an area along the borders of the states of Alabama, Georgia and Florida that was once heavily forested by pine trees. Wiregrass is a type of grass that grows under pine forests. Its seeds are germinated by fire that occurs naturally due to pine nettles being set afire from lightning.
Bienvenue sur les forums des plaines couvertes de coton et d'arachides des Wiregrass ! Le Wiregrass est une zone le long des frontières des États de l'Alabama, de la Géorgie et de la Floride qui était autrefois fortement boisée de pins. Wiregrass est un type d'herbe qui pousse sous les forêts de pins. Ses graines sont germées par le feu qui se produit naturellement en raison des orties de pin incendiées par la foudre.
Thanks for the very clear explanation. And I understand that I made a very good purchase. I bought the weapon about 3 years ago for 500 Euro. I bought it myself because as a former police officer, after much insistence, I was allowed to exchange our Belgium FN 7.36 mm pistol for an S&W .38 that I, as a motorcyclist, could operate with one hand while driving. Moreover, I think that FN gun was only dangerous if you could throw it at someoneAnd yes indeed we use the word drum (trommel) for the part that contains the cartridges. Where the cartridge is in, is also a "chamber" (kamer) with us. Although we usually just talk about the drum with a revolver, and we often call a revolver a drum revolver. After breakfast (it's now 9 am) I'm going to unhook the flask and send a photo. Anyway, thanks again for the very good explanation. In Belgium it is virtually impossible to obtain good information about weapons. Even at the shooting club, most members come once a month because otherwise they lose their license, without actually asking themselves questions about the gun they use. They usually know with difficulty where the front of the weapon is located. I want to know the details about everything. Am curious by nature.
I notice you have a very nice case for your S&W. Any idea where I could buy it? Here I have already tried everything but except in plastic there is nothing that I like. A wooden case is class.
Have a nice day, Eric
Thanks..... happy to be here. Nice bike by the wayWelcome aboard from east Missouri!
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