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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Going over the gun after my last visit and realized .. I dont know how to clean it. Most of it is simply the same as cleaning my other revolvers but I usually spray a little cleaner around the forcing cone area and then take a brass brush to it and the frame there. Comes out nice and clean. Not a rotary brush but ones I pick up at harbor freight that look like toothbrushes. I was ready to get at it and then thought

Hmm will the brass brush tear up the aluminum there and if so.. how do I clean that area?
Alex

forcing.jpg
 

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I also use a chop stick (bamboo) with the end cut to a flat or pointed tip. It's softer than the metal, and yet hard enough to help scrape and push dirt away.
 

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Nylon. I use that on my Sc framed guns as well as the mirror nickel.
 

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I have had a 638 for 5 years and shot as well as cleaned it a lot. I use solvent and a nylon brush as well as a brass scraper I made from a broken cleaning rod. I usually end up taking a few light swipes with a fine brass brush & solvent to get the last of the crud. No sign of it hurting the frame. I don't use any kind of brush on the exterior of the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys!! I usually only take a brass brush to the cylinder face, the rear of the cylinder and that area I pictured above. The coated bullets while smokey sometimes dont leave a lot of black stuff to clean up so the cylinder only needed cleaning with a rag and some M pro7 and the face with a lead away cloth.

I tried the Mpro7 and the nylon at the forcing cone area but .. didnt move much grime. Will give it another go. I have several stiff nylon small brushes and maybe just a tickle at that area with the brass before I get into it with the nylon. I like the wood idea too!
 

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While I don't have one, I think I'd do what I do with my Ruger / Volquartsen target pistols. I give them a dunk in my ultrasonic tank. They come out squeaky clean and no residue anywhere. I just oil the necessary pivots and call it good. Furniture and optics removed of course.
 

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I tried the Mpro7 and the nylon at the forcing cone area but .. didnt move much grime. Will give it another go. I have several stiff nylon small brushes and maybe just a tickle at that area with the brass before I get into it with the nylon. I like the wood idea too!
Like most solvents, the user needs to give it some time to do it's job. That's particularly true for Hoppe's.

I had regularly read that M-Pro7 was great. It was on sale a few months ago $10/32oz. I bought a bottle but didn't think much of it. For general cleaning I have yet to find something, even among the magic too-good-to-be-true solvents, that I prefer to Hoppe's for what you're doing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Like most solvents, the user needs to give it some time to do it's job. That's particularly true for Hoppe's.

I had regularly read that M-Pro7 was great. It was on sale a few months ago $10/32oz. I bought a bottle but didn't think much of it. For general cleaning I have yet to find something, even among the magic too-good-to-be-true solvents, that I prefer to Hoppe's for what you're doing.
I have been using Mpro for years mostly because its whats on the shelf when I run out of cleaner. I did however happen on something I like very much and did an excellent job in cleaning my revolvers but I dont see it often locally. I think I will order it online in the future. If you see a small bottle give it a try .. I was pretty impressed. Much better than M pro and I liked it a bit more than Hoppes

Outers - Chemicals

http://www.outers-guncare.com/products/chemicals/cleaners-degreasers.aspx
 

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Said before, Hoppes is no good for removing copper fouling and it's not. I ought to know, I look down every bore I clean, everytime I clean them. It smells good however. Fine for lead, zip for gilded jackets.
 
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