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I have a few SS wheelies that suffer from crummy powder burns on the cylinder face, forcing cone, etc. Yuck! I have one of those Lead-Clean gun cloths which has helped to a degree. Anyone know of anything that can get as much as possible the remaining discoloration off, or am I stuck with it the way it is. Thanx.


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Ball”s told
 
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I use either 3 or 4 ought steel on my stainless guns. Works great for me.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I use either 3 or 4 ought steel on my stainless guns. Works great for me.
I have no Ballistol but I do have some 0000. I'll give that a try.


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Birchwood Casey Lead removal cloth. It works wonders, and can remove all traces of powder residue. Unlike the other cleaners it has a pleasent smell to it. much like lanolin. And the best part is the more you use it, the easier gets to wipe the residue off later. You can get it in nearly any sporting goods stores, Walmart in the sporting goods section, and even Ace or True Value hardware stores.

Another option is Never Dull. It has a slight kerosene odor, but it works well.

With either of these products do not use them on any blued weapons. It'll take the bluing off as fast as you wipe it on.
 

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I use a stainless steel metal polish called Simichrome on bright finished stainless steel. It works great to remove the powder residue on the front of a stainless steel revolver cylinder.

This is my well used and regularly shot model 65...

505194
 

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Birchwood Casey Lead removal cloth. It works wonders, and can remove all traces of powder residue. Unlike the other cleaners it has a pleasent smell to it. much like lanolin. And the best part is the more you use it, the easier gets to wipe the residue off later. You cvan get it in nearly any sporting goods sores, Walmart in the sporting goods section, and even Ace or True Value hardware stores.

Another option is Never Dull. It has a slight kerosene odor, but it works well.

With either of these products do not use them on any blued weapons. It'll take the bluing off as fast as you wipe it on.
What I use on my 460.
 
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To be honest, I shoot mine enough that I don't bother with it. Every few years I'l get the itch to pretty them up and do it though. I do use Hoppes and a brush on the cylinder face to get the easy stuff off, but don't worry much about the powder burns on the cylinder face
 

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To be honest, I shoot mine enough that I don't bother with it. Every few years I'l get the itch to pretty them up and do it though. I do use Hoppes and a brush on the cylinder face to get the easy stuff off, but don't worry much about the powder burns on the cylinder face
I'm the same way. Somewhere along the line I just got lazy....
 

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My nearest and dearest tried to convince me that those burn rings on the end of the cylinder were normal and not to worry about them. Then after I took on the job of cleaning my own firearms, I "discovered" the lead removal cloths. It does take some elbow grease in addition to the cloth, but NoMoreCylinderRings!

I could try dousing them really well in Hoppes and letting them sit for some time. Good idea. After all, that is what I do with the barrels on my semi autos!
 

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My nearest and dearest tried to convince me that those burn rings on the end of the cylinder were normal and not to worry about them. Then after I took on the job of cleaning my own firearms, I "discovered" the lead removal cloths. It does take some elbow grease in addition to the cloth, but NoMoreCylinderRings!

I could try dousing them really well in Hoppes and letting them sit for some time. Good idea. After all, that is what I do with the barrels on my semi autos!
My 460 is so bad I've considered just letting it get black and stay that way actually. Sort of a 2 tone cylinder.
 

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My 460 is so bad I've considered just letting it get black and stay that way actually. Sort of a 2 tone cylinder.
Hey Flip, the next time I'm up there I'll clean that cylinder face for you. Especially knowing I added some powder to it myself.
 

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Not only does it blacken the face, it migrates down the sides too. Dirty bird.
 
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