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Discussion Starter #1
I just thought I would post this so those here could follow how it goes.

I have a nickel Model 19-4 that was made in 1978. It was shot in 1978 to the tune of 200 rounds, and has not been shot since.

I took it out yesterday and fired 50 rounds of Winchester 110gr. hollow points, and it did excellent in the accuracy department. I then broke out some American eagle 158gr. soft points and this is where the problem began, the first cylinder full was a little stiff on extraction. I checked the case heads, and one primer looked a little flat, nothing serious. I then fired another cylinder full, and this one was a little stiffer than the last one, and this time I noticed two primers that looked like they were beginning to flatten. So I fired one more cylinder full, and this one I had to use my bic lighter to get enough leverage to get the cases to extract! I noticed several flattened primers, and when I rolled the cases between my fingers, I could feel the case heads had expanded!

I was a little leery about calling S&W, because of the age of the revolver, but it is obvious that this gun is new, even though it was made in 78'. Well, they are sending me a pre-paid label to return it to them so they can have a look.

Now the problem I have is, they do not make a 19, nor do list any nickel pistols anymore, so I am going to be curious as to what they can do.

The only other time I have ever sent anything to them was over 20 years ago, and it was a model 57 that turned out to have a bent frame. At the time they were not making the 57 in a four inch, so they took a new frame off the line and put all of my parts on it.
 

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I'm not sure why you sent the gun back to Smith. Sounds to me like you have an ammo problem, not a gun problem. I assume you are talking strictly .357 Mags and no .38Spl here, but one cartridge works fine and one cartridge does not, the gun didn't change. :?: Maybe we don't know everything involved here.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
diamonback68 said:
I'm sure why you sent the gun back to Smith. Sounds to me like you have an ammo problem, not a gun problem. I assume you are talking strictly .357 Mags and no .38Spl here, but one cartridge works fine and one cartridge does not, the gun didn't change. :?: Maybe we don't know evrything involved here.

The 110 loads are definitely a lighter load than the 158s', so it looks like it does not like the higher pressure loads, and yes, all are .357 magnums'.
 

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If it were me, I would try several other brands of 158 .357s, FMJ, hollow points, LRN etc. and see what happens. All guns are not made alike and some prefer one type of ammo then another. It may be strictly an ammo problem. I would also check for roughness in the charge holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I just took a brass rod that is the diameter of a .357 round and put it into three of the cylinders and measured the distance it went in, and it is where it should be.

diamonback68, I have never had a .357 that would not shoot any factory ammo I put in it. Never have I seen pressure issues with factory ammo.

I have owned several 19s', 686s', 640s' and 2 tauruss' (spelling?)
 

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Fine, so apparently you know what you are doing, so send your gun back to Smith.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
diamonback68 said:
Fine, so apparently you know what you are doing, so send your gun back to Smith.
I posted it so others could follow what may happen it they send an "old", yet "new" revolver back, and to see if I could get some feed back on something I am missing. Yours was help full, as I did not think to check the cylinders with the brass rod.
Thanks :D
 

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It does sound as if it's an ammo problem. But, it's kinda hard to tell since we can't see the revolver.

Please let us know what S&W says..

And, welcome to the forum!
 

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500 magnum is out resident gun smith in here and he more often than not can tell you a simple fix before you ship it off and save you a little time. Especialy if you post your problem down in the gun smithing section where it will catch his eye when he logs on.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
carl418 said:
It does sound as if it's an ammo problem. But, it's kinda hard to tell since we can't see the revolver.

Please let us know what S&W says..

And, welcome to the forum!
Just curious, have you ever had a problem like this?

I have a 2.5" barreled 640, and it shoot this stuff fine.

I just measured one of the brass from the 158 load and it measured .376 at the mouth, and .381 at the head, and one of the brass from the 110 load and it was .376 at the mouth and .377 at the head. It looks to me that it does not like the pressure of the 158s'
 

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Discussion Starter #13
onenut58 said:
500 magnum is out resident gun smith in here and he more often than not can tell you a simple fix before you ship it off and save you a little time. Especialy if you post your problem down in the gun smithing section where it will catch his eye when he logs on.
Thanks, I will do that.
 

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Just curious.. is there any sign of leading in the barrel?

Also, since this thread is more about a gun problem, I'm moving it to the gunsmithing section. No need to start another thread there too..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
carl418 said:
Just curious.. is there any sign of leading in the barrel?

Also, since this thread is more about a gun problem, I'm moving it to the gunsmithing section. No need to start another thread there too..
No, I can see no lead build up, but it only has 19 rounds of the offending ammo through it, as I did not think it prudent to fire anymore. The reason for the one round above 3 cylinders full, was I just wanted to see if one more would give me a problem, and it did. :cry:
 

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Nickel19 said:
Yours was help full, as I did not think to check the cylinders with the brass rod.
Thanks :D
N19, I wasn't talking about a range rod. What I was suggesting was looking at the inside of each charge hole with a bright light and see if you see any striations or machine marks that can be easily corrected with polishing. HTH
 

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Welcome N19,

I would think that trying other ammo would be the next step to determine a problem.

Years ago I was offered American Eagle ammo as a cheaper ammo to use. Ya it is chepaer alright. The first time I used AM Eag ammo in 44 I had a missfire and the lead got stuck in the bbl/cyl. I took the gun back to the shop that sold me the ammo and he had to tap the lead back in the case in the cyl to open the cyl. The faulty shell had no poweder in it. The others were stuck in cyl. Cheaper b/c they use inferior brass and sometimes don't put in powerder!

I never used that ammo again. As far as I'm concerned Am Eag ammo is crap.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
diamonback68 said:
Nickel19 said:
Yours was help full, as I did not think to check the cylinders with the brass rod.
Thanks :D
N19, I wasn't talking about a range rod. What I was suggesting was looking at the inside of each charge hole with a bright light and see if you see any striations or machine marks that can be easily corrected with polishing. HTH
I just looked using a surefire, and I can not tell. I did just try to put some of the offending brass back into the cylinders, and I found one that would go back in one chamber, but not the others, and I used the light to see where it was stopping, and it appears to be stopping where it is supposed to.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
WGlide90 said:
Welcome N19,

I would think that trying other ammo would be the next step to determine a problem.

Years ago I was offered American Eagle ammo as a cheaper ammo to use. Ya it is chepaer alright. The first time I used AM Eag ammo in 44 I had a missfire and the lead got stuck in the bbl/cyl. I took the gun back to the shop that sold me the ammo and he had to tap the lead back in the case in the cyl to open the cyl. The faulty shell had no poweder in it. The others were stuck in cyl. Cheaper b/c they use inferior brass and sometimes don't put in powerder!

I never used that ammo again. As far as I'm concerned Am Eag ammo is crap.

I am fairly sure I have shot this out of my 640 with no problems, but I think I may try this later just to be sure.
 
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