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Anyone know how to get this 1926 Model 44 Special to allow me to swing the cylinder open? The ejector button moves but won't unlock
 

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Try tightening the ejector rod, occasionally they work loose (may have reverse threads).
 

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If it hasn't been opened in a long time, it just may be stuck--maybe dried oil between yoke & frame. At the same time you push the latch forward, slap the cylinder from the opposite side with the other hand.
 

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IF it is just stuck, a sharp tap on the cylinder while pushing on the latch.

My bet is the ejector rod has backed out a bit. If that is the problem, also an easy fix. A popsicle stick, or similar, can be used to wedge the rod in the barrel lug. Ease back on the hammer and rotate the cylinder to tighten the rod. On that age revolver, you may be dealing with left handed threads so try one way or the other. Once you get the cylinder out, clean the threads on that rod and add a tiny drop of thread locker to prevent future problems.

Or, find a shooter/gunsmith who can do it for you.

Kevin
 

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Slip something in between the ejector rod & the latch pin & pry them (gently) apart, it should open @ that point. Then check to see if the ejector rod needs tightening.
 

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Remove the grips and soak in ATF overnight. I'd guess some rust/dried oil/ crud is stuck in the ejector rod housing. Do NOT go smacking the cylinder as you may bend something expensive to fix.

Have a 22 Ladysmith that wouldn't open either. Wound up dissembling the gun and pushing the pin forward from the back. It was dried oil around the pin inside the cylinder.
 

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The thread is right handed until ~1959 on the K and N frame only.

I frames have left handed thread beginning right after WWII. And J frames began life with LH threads in 1950.
 
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