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I'm gonna guess and say that this subject is very old......but, not if you haven't read about it. What cleaners do you shooters recommend? See the Shooter Lube ads lately, but shipping is too high. Hoppes......around long time so maybe this is the one. Lots of others. Maybe I'll just get my ole pressure cleaner out next time I do my drive and give my 659 a good old cleaning. Cheaper.
 

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496928


I use ATF on the PRO SHOT Patches coupled with Pro Shot Jags.

Observe the pudding containers. They make dandy patch storage. The PINK ones are soaked in ATF.

Nothing could be simpler. NOTHING cleans better.

Later, Mark
 

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I use a small combination of different cleaners as required. I am still a believer of Hoppe's No. 9. I also use Copperzilla for deep copper fouling removal, and for clearing and cleaning the barrels of every gun I purchase. CLP is great fo regular cleaning and maintenance, because it really does a great light lubrication, and rust prevention.
I have Rem oil to keep my guns wiped down for storage. I use a Birchwood Casey Lead cloth for removal of leading and powder stains on my nickel and stainless guns, especially the cylinder faces. But it can't be used on blued guns without care taken, so you don't rub away any of the bluing.
There is no such thing as a one shot cleaner/protectant, simply because of the complexity of bullet types, bullet jacketing, and the quality of the propellant used in ammo. Some propellants are cleaner burning than others, but there is still no perfect combination as of yet.
And lastly you need to consider what cleaners you are using based on the finishes of your guns. There are different chemicals for blued guns, nickel finished guns, and stainless guns. If in doubt, ask the shooters you know what works best on a given finish.
 

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What I use: Hoppes for the bores; and currently Slip 2000 EWL because a sample came with my first SIG and I really liked it, so I bought a bottle. That was 3 years ago (at least) and I still have quite a bit left in that first 4 oz. bottle.

What I used to use: Hoppes for the bores; and Frog Lube paste. I used that for years on all of my Glocks and revolvers and they really did not get dirty hardly at all. You absolutely must use a hair dryer to heat all the metal surfaces to "hot" before you brush on the Frog Lube and then let it sit for several minutes before wiping off the excess, but it is fantastic stuff if you use it properly. It not, you can make a gunked up mess of your gun . When you use Hoppes, DO NOT use any other oil!

I also do something that I do not think very many guys do: My first step is to clean all surfaces with dry patches - cut from old tee shirts. The the dry toothbrush "scrub."

Those steps save having to go over and over surfaces with the Hoppes or CLP. After cleaning with Hoppes and bronze brush, I sometimes use small patches of my lead removal cloth to get the really stubborn "black" from the grooves in the cylinder or around the forcing cone if a revolver - depending on the gun and on the ammo used. Then I use the tee shirt patches lightly oiled with my CLP on all metal surfaces.

Then, finally a few drops of oil in specific places (listed in the owners manual) and we are good to go again.

I really like to clean guns - if they are not horribly filthy. Then it is not fun.
 

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Currently using Break-Free CLP. I heard Ballistol smells like licorice. I think I'll try that next.

For bore cleaning I really like the Remington squeegee system and this pasty stuff:

497076
 

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I've used a bunch of cleaners over the years from WD-40 to Shooter's Choice to Hoppe's. Right now, I use Shooter's Choice for cleaning and full synthetic motor oil for lubrication and Shooter's Choice red grease for those applications.
 

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Like a lot of folks here, I've been cleaning guns for decades. There's no magic lubes or solvents. Pretty much everything works good enough for most folks.

For cleaning I use Hoppe's. I buy the 32oz bottles for consderable savings over the smaller size. For lube I use Wilson Combat, Universal and Oil (heavier/lighter viscosities).) I dispense the lubes in needle applicators which really helps get it where needed without overdoing it. I use Gun Scrubber as a washing off rinse after cleaning for some parts (it doesn't "scrub" jack). Rem Oil isn't used much for anything other than a light mist on actions parts if i'm not going to shoot a gun for a long time. By the time I use the gun again it will have evaporated without leaving much of a residue.

I have dozens of different cleaners, oils and greases, rust prevents and other stuff... but the above described is used about 98% of the time.


497143


497141
 

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I use those same needle applicators for my Shooter's Choice cleaner and Valvoline synthetic oil; nice for getting into the time spaces
 

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Hoppes #9 for the bore, then I remove the grips and CRC Brakleen for the slide and action. Then Mobil 1 for liquid oil and super lube for grease.
 

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We use Bore Tech Eliminator exclusively on our very expensive hunting rifles and I use it on my pistols as well, followed by the bore scope, I want to see inside the tube to make sure it's clean If I store them I run a patch through with Hoppes No. 9 oil. BTE will strip out everything including any oil. Always optically inspect every bore after cleaning and a bore scope is a wonderful tool to have when looking at used firearms as well. Have a Gradient Lens Hawkeye (expensive) and a cheap Endoscope I got on Amazon that plugs into my Andriod phone (cheap). The Hawkeye is optically light years better but the cheap endoscope works for a quickie.

All my handguns get a bath in my large ultrasonic heated cleaner with a solvent bath (I pull the grips first).
 

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The best cleaner I have used is dawn/water mix in the ultrasonic.
Drawback is it has to be completely disassembled!
As for clp's,I think I've tried most of them, I still like Tri-flow.
I now use LPS products.
#1 for most things (low viscosity), they call it a "greaseless lubricant"
#2 is about the viscosity of 3in1, maybe a little heavier.
#3 is about the viscosity of spray lithium grease ,dries to a light wax like consistency, great for long term storage.

wayne

Zoro/(Granger's online site) is where I get mine.
https://www.zoro.com
 

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Gun writer, Ed Harris, improved on a proven US Army formula and it got named “Ed’s Red”. You can find how to make it on “Cast Boolits Forum”. It’s economical. I made a gallon last week. It cost about $30. 25% Dextron ATF. 25% K1 kerosene. 25% mineral spirts. 25% Acetone. Not stinky. After cleaning, point of impact is unchanged on first shot. Need to store it in a metal can because acetone will migrate through certain types of plastics.
 

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A gallon will last along time. Make sure you Mark the container. Some friends needed gasoline for a car on empty. I told them they could get some from my garage. It was dark and they used my Ed’s Red in their car. It got them to the gas station.
 
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