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Went to the gun store today to ask a couple questions and sauntered by their revolver section. Wasn’t sure what they had and neither were they except it was an old 32 s&w. Went to get my phone out of the truck and my girlfriend came in to make sure I didn’t buy it...and then bought it for me lol. I’m pretty sure it’s a late 50s pre model 30. It wasn’t stamped model 30 but it’s got the flat latch, diamond grips and based on the post on here a couple days ago it’s 1957 according to the serial #673xxx. It’s a pretty cool lil piece and was only $250 (I figured it was fair considering asking prices on some). She also bought me a box for a model 10 lol. And I’m sending out a check for 2.5” 19-3 today. So a pretty stellar day all and all.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The trigger pull is pretty tough in double action. Not as smooth as the bigger k frames I’m more familiar with. I know it probably needs a good cleaning and some lube but does anyone have any experience with the trigger on these?
 

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There’s no screw at the top of the side plate. It wasn’t stamped on the crane. And yeah she’s the best, she’s really supportive of my gun enthusiasm goes to the shows and gets all excited with me about the guns I like even though she’s pretty strictly into 1911s.
 

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Getting a good trigger pull on smaller frames is more challenging than w/ larger frames since there's less mechanical advantage. Having said that it can be done w/ some careful polishing of the works, generally the slide causes the most friction. However before you do anything else I'd clean it out & give it a dose of gun oil.
 

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make mine 45 acp 😎
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those little 32's can become habit forming - once you have one, you start recognizing then in all the dusty corners of the gun shops..

that one is properly a pre-30 - maybe only a few thousands before the switch-over to the model 30 stamping..
Good price on a fun little gun with the cool features, flat latch diamond grips, and looks like its the 3" barrel?

Its an I frame still of course, with the improved i frame action on the 'new' model of 1953 frame (larger) design.

The switch to the J frame comes to the Model 30-1 , in 1961..

As 'bro said - it takes some dedicated and cautious work to smooth out the action, a lost art today for the I frame.
Id personally clean it, lube it with quality stuff, see where that gets you first.
 

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The trigger pull will never be like an K, L or N frame S&W revolver, the mechanics are different no matter what you do with the internals, but that said, you have a beauty on your hands and at the price you paid, a JACKPOT! Nice score sir, I wish I was that fortunate! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think I did pretty well. Kicking myself for passing up on a 5 screw aluminum model 12 for 200 bucks. I figured I’d come back for it and another day but another guy in the know offered him some real money for it. Still really happy with this. And from what I’ve read a couple other people said the pull was awfully heavy.
 

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And from what I’ve read a couple other people said the pull was awfully heavy.
Honestly, what was the purpose for which such small revolvers were made & sold? Target shooting? Don't make me laugh! (Although the .32 Long is itself a famous target cartridge; but not in this gun.) Plinking? Equally laughable. Their sole purpose was self-defense at close range (i.e., 20 or 30 ft.), and in that situation, you'd never feel that "awful" pull. In fact, most cases of self-defense require no trigger-pull at all, because the would-be robber, mugger, or other assailant, instantly decides he'd rather find a "softer" target.
 

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The trigger pull is pretty tough in double action. Not as smooth as the bigger k frames I’m more familiar with. I know it probably needs a good cleaning and some lube but does anyone have any experience with the trigger on these?
The geometry of smaller frames makes for a stiffer double action trigger pull. It's just the nature of the beast.

Give it a good cleaning and lube and that is the best you're going to get
 

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In terms of the ergonomics and admittedly counter to concealment is to put larger grips on the gun. Pachmayr and others offer a J to K step up. I have a round butt to square butt set of Herret's in wood I have used in the past. But do you really intend to carry a .32 for serious social work?
 

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Congrats on scoring that fine little revolver! Have to agree...you did have a stellar day and hang onto that GF! Please post pics of the 19-3 when you get it because, you know, we want to see it.;)
 

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But do you really intend to carry a .32 for serious social work?
.32 Long was used by many police depts. before WWI--inc. NYPD. For that specific purpose, Colt introduced an improvement over the round-nosed .32 Long--the flat-point .32 New Police (which is not the same as the .32 Colt, a completely different cartridge). Fact is, excluding suicide bombers & other maniacs, nobody likes to get shot; that's why many Union soldiers thought S&W's first model Tip-Up in .22 Short was worth buying & carrying as a back-up weapon.
 

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Great find and price for a very fun shooting small flat latch revolver. The 32 Long is a smooth shooting accurate round. I picked up a Model 31 and love shooting it. I predict you will too. Here’s my square butt 32 Long.

525F5763-E38C-4A80-A699-190DB436A7E0.jpeg
 

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The I frame switched to the coil mainspring in 1952 and is called the Improved I frame.

Yours as was posted above is the next model; the Model of 1953 NEW I frame with larger trigger guard and 1/8" longer rd butt grips frame/grips.

The problem is that S&W used the same coil spring for all the centerfire I frames as they did for the 22 I frame. But the centerfires do not need the hefty 22 spring for reliable ignition like the rimfires do. So cut a couple coils off the spring or get a lighter spring from Wolff, etc. It has the accuracy of a target revolver so I'm laughing at anyone laughing at that! Remember it's a light gun when you squeeze the trigger! Put some sights on it if you have to and see what it can do!

Model 30-1 .32 Long with .22 Kit Gun sights:

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Which springs should I get? I wanna keep the original spring stock and if I swap it out I’ll just set it aside. Thanks for the info. Least it makes some sense why it’s so heavy. I’ve heard a lot about how accurate these guns actually are. Can’t wait to pick it up Friday.
 

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Although your gun is an I Frame, you want the J Frame springs, they both use the same springs.

The reduced power hammer spring is #23808.

And the trigger rebound spring pack is: #16670 S&W RP REBOUND SPRING 11-15 ASSMT PAK Pak of 5, $9.00. This will give you an assortment of lighter springs to try.
 
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