You know, of course, that just wiping off the case exterior will produce ammo just as accurate and, if you remove the dry lube (soot), you might have to replace it. A lot of effort going into something of no importance.
All I see is the ritual getting more involved over time.
Have you tried jet dry to prevent water spots?
Nufinish contains abrasives.
I disagree. Not about handgun brass but with bottleneck rifle brass, you want the inside and primer pockets as clean as the outside, always and the ONLY way to do that is wet tumble in a dash of Dawn dish soap and a dash of Lemishine. in warm water. it's utmost importance that all traces of burnt propellant be removed from the inside of a case before charging and seating a new pill, especially when annealing any case because annealing a case with powder residue inside will cause that residue to harden in the neck and cause erratic insertion and erratic velocity when the cartridge is fired and that contributes to poor downrange accuracy. Irun all my rifle brass through STS with the primers removed and then I anneal each case before I FL resize them with a bushing die, prime them, charge the cases and insert a bullet with a micrometer seater.
handguns are a different animal but I still run my straightwall cases in STS and I anneal the 44 RM's, and the 460 S&W's that receive a heavy crimp to mitigate neck cracking issues. Got tired long ago with neck cracking on magnum handgun rounds so they get annealed now s well. Considering how hard it is to buy quality brass, let alone FMJ pills, it's false economy not to correctly prep and far as removing anything from the outer case with Dawn, I use Imperial sizing wax on every case, straightwall or bottle neck. No exceptions.
