Smith And Wesson Forums banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Caution! These observations and changes should be done by a gunsmith. If you don’t have skills associated with the changes, please take it to a gunsmith. The intent is to provide information on how the CSX can be an outstanding gun.
The final adjustment to the wall feel and trigger weight. Most will think this is not needed after they make the other adjustments.

The hammer has a coined hooked edge in the middle where it rests on the sear. Mine had scratches on top of the sear after only 20-30 rounds from this jagged edge.

Only do this next step if you are experienced at precision working of steel. If not take to a gunsmith.

I laid the gun on a piece of wood and tapped on the hammer pin and sear pin then drilled under sized holes in the wood to push them in while out of the gun to help align and see the sear angles. See pics at end.

It’s important when you draw a line between the hammer pivot and sear contact, there is alway a positive engagement. Carfully stone the burr the burr on the hammer to make smooth but maintaining an angle that allows only the tip of the hammer hook to touch the sear. There should be light between them at the inside corner. Ruby or Arkansas triangle stone works well. Ten polish with 1000 grit paper between the hook edge and the sharp edge of a razor. This will make it smoother. Don’t work this center section

Don’t work this center section down to the outer portions of the hook in the hammer. It’s intentionally stepped so when the half cock position smacks it, it doesn’t impact the middle sear interface.

Finally polish the sear face with 1000 then 1500 paper using an India stone as a backer. The trigger weight is now 4.5lbs in the middle of the trigger and 3.5 lbs at the tip of the trigger.

image22.jpeg


image23.jpeg


Please do a safety check to eliminate risk of an accidental discharge!!

Safety check that the sear is negative. When you pull ther trigger the hammer should rock backwards a few thousands of an inch before releasing.

If you don’t have dial indicator to check this you use this methods.

Remove the sear spring and reassemble fire control. Cock the hammer holding the sear against the hammer. Release pressure on the hammer. Release pressure holding the sear in place, with only the the seat and hammer catch holding it in place. It should still require a minimum of 2lbs on the sear to release the hammer.

Replace the sear spring before operating the gun and load only one round in the gun at ready position pointed down range. Adding additional rounds until you are comfortable the gun is operating as you intended
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
19,588 Posts
You're describing modifying a firearms critical components with tolerances well below what the eye can see and attempting these types of changes can be very dangerous and certainly deadly if done incorrectly. These changes should never be attempted at home without the proper training, skill set and tools.

What you are doing is so far above the skill set of so many here. When it comes to the level of machining needed to do the precision work your describing I personally recommend having a licensed gunsmith do this work. The CSX is so new on the market that I'm not sure if an improved replacement trigger is even available yet. A simple replacement trigger from S&W may be unavailable yet, as well. So doning this incorrectly may cause this firearm to be rendered useless.
Without the proper machining tools, and precision measuring gauges this should never be attempted at home. You're describing modifying a firearms critical components with tolerances well below what the eye can see and attempting these types of changes can be very dangerous and certainly deadly if done incorrectly.
There is so much information not included in this thread that really needs to be here. incomplete information is much more dangerous that all of information you've posted here so far.

Lastly, I'm moving this post to the gunsmithing section of the forum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Smithem, You’ve caused me to look at this even closer.

Note, Im not recommending any modifications in this reply, but merely trying to explain design, mfg process, and function. If any of my observations are incorrect, maybe Smith will speak up

I’ve provided two pics below with illustrations of what I’m referring to. Black lines on half cock, White lines on full cock, Green lines to show MIM PL, and Blue line shows seperate on area.

I’ve held the hammer all the way back, and the trigger pulled back as well so the sear and hammer are opened up for the Photo. The Gun is never in this state during opperation.

The raised portion in the middle is what I was referring to as being coined with a hook like face. The white lines, line up with the middle of the sear face, and the raised area.

The MIM Parting Line (se 2nd pic illustration) runs straight down from the half cock notch to the full cock notch making them immediately adjacent to each other. With the PL. The other step is molded in the cavity side. It’s possible to mold I this way but mine looked coined. Mine was not post mold machined so coining the middle and leaving it that way is cheap way to make it, prior to the sintering process. It also leaves the point pretty rough.

I believe they raise the middle to provide additional separation between the half cock and full cock contact area on the sear. Separation would prevent any hobbing of the sear caused by the half cock, from affecting the critical sear release area.

Hope this makes sense.

Azure Automotive tire Handwriting Font Gas

Gas Font Machine Electric blue Metal
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
I had visions of removing that protruding portion so the hammer would make full contact with the sear, but then thought otherwise when Marshal 3 posted that his was the same. I figured S&W did that for a reason be it design or revenue motivations by simplifying a step in the manufacturing process.

I had my gun down to parts and gave them all a good polishing. I didn't remove any metal or alter anything except for the plunger. It seems the newer models came out with that mod from the factory. I wonder if S&W is watching🤓 this forum and gave that mod a go.

It is too bad that the CSX took such a beating on the many reviews it had when it came to the false reset. Most reviewers have to find something and that was it I guess.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top