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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Caution! These observations and changes should be done by a gunsmith. If you don’t have skills associated with the changes, please take it to a gunsmith. The intent is to provide information on how the CSX can be an outstanding gun.
As previously described by another post the shape of the firing pin block plunger has an impact on the false reset, but there are other details that contribute. Reducing the pin block plunger spring force by shortening it to 7.5 mm makes the feel sliding off of the safety bar reset tip from the plunger during release. It also reduces weigh required to depress it during trigger pull by nearly 1 lb.
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Both the safety bar spring and the sear spring contribute just shy of 1lb to the trigger weight. I’ve reduce the spring length of both shown here. At this point the Trigger weight was 4.5-5 lbs., but still had a slight double reset and a scratchy final wall.
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The timing of the safety bar disconnect ledge and the sear was a major contributor in my gun.

During reset the safety bar disconnect ledge was stopping short of the sear and the trigger bar was jumping twice. Once over the disconnect ledge and then over the bottom of the sear.

The safety bar was hitting the both the sear pivot pin and the magazine. I correct the clearance the the sear pin and it felt great, until I put a magazine in. Then I had to remove stock from the face that rests against the mag.

With the following pics I’ve tried to illustrate the adjustments.

Two surfaces adjusted .020”
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I laid a razor along the edge of the disconnect ledge and the sear to show they align but sear is slightly lower.

Caution, The same could be achieved by removing material from the sear, but it would affect the timing of the hammer release to the firing pin block clearing.
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The next two pics show the alignment with the safety on and trigger just before rest position, then the safety off after reset.
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Please do a safety check to eliminate risk of an accidental discharge!! Even though we didn’t touch the sear or hammer, please
Safety check that the sear is negative. When you pull ther trigger the hammer should rock backwards a few thousands of an inch before releasing.

If you don’t have dial indicator to check this you use this methods.

Remove the sear spring and reassemble fire control. Cock the hammer holding the sear against the hammer. Release pressure on the hammer. Release pressure holding the sear in place, with only the the seat and hammer catch holding it in place. It should still require a minimum of 2lbs on the sear to release the hammer.

Replace the sear spring before operating the gun and load only one round in the gun at ready position pointed down range. Adding additional rounds until you are comfortable the gun is operating as you intended
 

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You're describing modifying a firearms critical components with tolerances well below what the eye can see and attempting these types of changes can be very dangerous and certainly deadly if done incorrectly. These changes should never be attempted at home without the proper training, skill set and tools.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You're describing modifying a firearms critical components with tolerances well below what the eye can see and attempting these types of changes can be very dangerous and certainly deadly if done incorrectly. These changes should never be attempted at home without the proper training, skill set and tools.
Gearchecker, based on your other replies you should move this one to the gunsmith forum as well
 
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