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Hey so if you read my new member post you know I鈥檝e inherited my grandfathers 1957 pre model 10 .38 special. I took the gun to the range today and it shoots good, well as good as I can shoot it... it didn鈥檛 blow up in my hand so that鈥檚 a good thing馃槀 I know the basics of how to clean a gun after shooting it but I really want to get this thing polished up good without replacing any of the parts. As you can see in the pictures there鈥檚 a couple areas I want to focus on:
1) discoloration on the hammer/and trigger
2) the emblem on the grip.

My question is how should I go about cleaning these if they鈥檒l even come clean at all? After seeing some other pictures of similar guns I think mines in pretty good shape. I鈥檓 gonna try and workout the surface rust as good as I can. I鈥檒l take everything apart tomorrow and do a real good cleaning. Thanks for all the help!
 

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That "discoloration" on the hammer and trigger are color case hardening and is normal, don't do any cleaning, from what I can see from the pics there's nothing wrong, just apply a light coat of oil.

The monograms/medallions on the grips are nickel plated brass, the plating is not a very thick and it is not usual to find it worn through to the brass on the high spots of the medallions.

A Q-tip and a non abrasive mild cleaner will clean them up, but if there is worn areas with the brass showing through... go very easy on them or more of the remaining nickel could come off.
 

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The discoloration on the hammer and trigger is called Charcoal Case Hardening. You don't want to take it off All older Smith Revolvers have it. Second The grip panel logo. A light metal polish and a tooth brush and lightly rub the compound on the emblem and it will clean right up. Don't over do and hurt the wood on the grips. Take you time a little goes a long way. Last the backstrap. rust. This is from the acids in the human hand. Take some Ballistol . remove the drips and place Ballistol on that part of the grip . Leave sit overnight. Then a light steel wool and rub the rust away. . Then keep clean and wiped down after every shooting session or handeling session. ..
 

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Thanks for the replies. Im not going to be able to get to it today after all but when I do I'll post some pictures.
 

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Do not mess with it. You can only do damage to an otherwise fine revolver in great condition.

Per the above post, the areas on the backstrap and other areas where rust has started can be improved by removing the grips, and then using well oiled "0000" steel wool on a well oiled surface. Rub gently and it should remove any places where corrosion (red oxide rust) was starting. This is important to prevent pitting of the steel surface. You won't hurt the bluing (magnetite) which is harder than iron oxide unless you rub too hard in one place. The steel under the blued surface is harder than iron oxide rust, and softer than the bluing (magnetite).
 

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Took my dad's model 10 out today since it was my birthday and it hung right in there with my 66-2. I DO need to remember to hold a low 6 o'clock to hit the bullseye........
 
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