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Somewhere I read of a reamer used to clean the Residue out of 357 chambers when you shoot a lot of 38 special. I’ve checked Brownells and the interwebs searching on “357 chamber reamer” and “357 chamber cleaners” all with no luck. Can someone point me to a tool name or part number and vendor? In another life, when I was even more ignorant than now, when it got hard to chamber 357 round I put a 41 cal stainless brush on a drill and cleaned the chambers. Didn’t quite wreck the pistol but wasn’t far. Sold it as parts because of other problems a couple decades ago.
 

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Usually some solvent and then a few passes with a .38 or .40 caliber brush and then a few patches does the job. Anytime power tools get involved things go south. If the chambers are really bad you could take a .357 Magnum case and hit the mouth with a countersink to sharpen the edge and slide it into each chamber to remove the worst of the fouling.
 

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And if that doesn't, chuck that brush in a cordless drill and go to town. Otherwise, soaking the cylinder in a good solvent will work, as will flaring a 357 case to act as a scraper in the cylinder.
 
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Soak cleaning patch's w/ solvent & stuff one in each chamber then let it soak for a while. Then take a new .357 cleaning brush & scrub it out, repeat as needed. A chamber reamer or power tools are for completely other applications & a recipe for a boogered gun. In the 30+ years I owned a gunsmithing business I can't think of using power tools to clean anything.
 

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I took a .357 magnum cartridge, removed the primer and then used a Dremel shaft pushed through the primer hole and then use a nut to mount the cartridge onto the shaft. I use my Dremel at the lowest speed to ream and clean out the chamber. It do it from back to front, and then front to back. After that I use a patch of Birchwood Casey Lead removal cloth to clean up the rest of the remaining powder residue. When finished, a drop or two of Hoppe's, and then swab it out to finish. All in all it takes me about 3 minutes or so to get a spotless set of chambers.
 
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Even softer tools can gall something you're working on.

Has anyone ever soaked the cylinder in an appropriate solvent and then used an ultrasonic bath cleaner with solvent to finish it up?
 
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Soak cleaning patch's w/ solvent & stuff one in each chamber then let it soak for a while. Then take a new .357 cleaning brush & scrub it out, repeat as needed. A chamber reamer or power tools are for completely other applications & a recipe for a boogered gun. In the 30+ years I owned a gunsmithing business I can't think of using power tools to clean anything.
Cleaning a smoothbore, whether cylinder or shotgun barrel, is not going to be hurt by rotating a brush faster than you can do it by hand. I use that same method cleaning choke tubes and they are basically the same premise as a revolver cylinder
 
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Showin' my age here, likely! But I am AMAZED that no one on here suggested a Lewis Lead Remover...............Digger, go to Brownell's site and order yourself a set, that's one item you'll never regret buying..........not only can you remove all that old gunk in the cylinder, you can also leave the forcing cone in the bbl bright and shiny as new.....it'l leave the bore immaculate too. Had mine so long the box is falling apart, but as I recall it came with both .38/357 & .44 fittings.....suggest you order a couple extra packs of discs, but the basic is easily enough to solve your problem.

Incidentally, I saw where Brownells was offering a .30 cal adapter as well...........anyone on here used one?
 

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Cleaning a smoothbore, whether cylinder or shotgun barrel, is not going to be hurt by rotating a brush faster than you can do it by hand. I use that same method cleaning choke tubes and they are basically the same premise as a revolver cylinder


:rolleyes:I have 150 year-old guns that shot a lot of corrosive ammo, went through wars & are still in good shape... they were cleaned the old way, not the wizbang-hurry-it-up way. Ever wonder why your methods aren't mentioned in any manuals? Keep it up, there's gunsmiths out there that can use the work rebuilding goobered guns... or gun companies you can buy new ones from. One of the reasons I retired from gunsmithing is so I don't have to deal w/ ignorant people who wreck good guns anymore.
 

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:rolleyes:I have 150 year-old guns that shot a lot of corrosive ammo, went through wars & are still in good shape... they were cleaned the old way, not the wizbang-hurry-it-up way. Ever wonder why your methods aren't mentioned in any manuals? Keep it up, there's gunsmiths out there that can use the work rebuilding goobered guns... or gun companies you can buy new ones from. One of the reasons I retired from gunsmithing is so I don't have to deal w/ ignorant people who wreck good guns anymore.
Funny how NONE of my guns are "goobered up"; again, those methods are not for barrels with rifling, just smooth cylinder shapes. And yes it is a nice wizbang fast method. If we still did thin gs the way we did them 150 years ago, we'd be communicating by carrier pigeon, not the internet. It's OK to adopt new ways and technologies that accomplish the same result in less time......;)
 

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Hint: The solvent softens & loosens the buildup, not scraping it w/ tools.
 

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I disassembled my cylinder and used a tool called a Flex-Hone, placed in a drill press, well oiled and run at a low rpm. Do some looking into this method, it might be worth trying if the other methods are not successful.
 

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Do you? Listen and learn.
Really? what a peasant insult.......been using my method for over 35 years............works great.
Go ahead and crank your Model T and then try the party line phone..............because after all, those old methods are the only ones worth doing.......nvpAN
 
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Have had more than a few instances where I shot so many .38 Special loads in .357 chambered revolvers that a good bit of fouling was built up. Following advice from other fellows I bought and used phosphor bronze cleaning brushes ... w/ steel cleaning rod and brass cleaning jags using good cleaning patches and Hoppes No. 9 solvent. I later discovered the use of copper Chore Boy pads wrapping some of the copper strands around a worn bore brush. Used with solvent this works very well for removing heavy fouling, leading, etc. As noted in prior post, a Lewis Lead Remover is inexpensive and extremely effective in cleaning a heavily fouled revolver.

Oddly, I've been shooting cast lead bullets in various .30 caliber rifles for about 40 years. I've not ever had a case of leading, etc. Odd. Velocities are certainly not slow. My current loads use commercial hard cast bullets w/ plain bases w/ velocities at around 1200-1300 FPS. There is no leading regardless of which rifle I use. Accuracy is simply excellent. Only have to use a cotton patch to wipe the bore out after a range session or match. Got to wonder why such bullets give no problems in a relatively small rifle bore yet same type of bullet in a revolver can sometimes leave leading. Probably got something to do with the fit of the bullet to the throat/bore. Sincerely. bruce.
 

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The Lewis lead remover works great ..But instead of buying one ,,You can do just as good of a job with what you more than likely have in your house at the moment..Look under the kitchen sink for one of those brass scuub pads,,Looks like steel wool but instead of steel wool it is brass and is more like twisted ribbons wound up into a pad,,Pull some strands of those ribbons off and wrap around an old bore brush, Then you could run it through the cylinder by hand or use a drill and the job can be done in minuets.,,I learned about this many years ago after getting my first 357 revolver..I fired 50 rounds of factory swc,,,And looking down the barrel while cleaning it I was shocked to see that there was barely any rifling left in the bore!!,,The rifleing was still there but was so leaded that it looked almost like a smooth bore..I soked it with hoppes and used a brass brush on it for a couple hours!,,Finally got it cleaned ,,I thought,,Told my old man what a pain it was to clean ,,he took a look and said it wasn't clean..He wrapped some brass scrub pad around a brush and ran it through the barrel over a piece of note book paper ...It looked like someone threw a pinch of pepper on the paper after a couple passes ..Now after shooting any cast bullet loads,,The barrel always gets a few passes with the brass scub pad..If you have any doubts,, clean your barrel,,And when you think it is claen,, Try the brass scrub pad over a piece of paper and see how much lead was still in the barrel.
 

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Showin' my age here, likely! But I am AMAZED that no one on here suggested a Lewis Lead Remover...............Digger, go to Brownell's site and order yourself a set, that's one item you'll never regret buying..........not only can you remove all that old gunk in the cylinder, you can also leave the forcing cone in the bbl bright and shiny as new.....it'l leave the bore immaculate too. Had mine so long the box is falling apart, but as I recall it came with both .38/357 & .44 fittings.....suggest you order a couple extra packs of discs, but the basic is easily enough to solve your problem.

Incidentally, I saw where Brownells was offering a .30 cal adapter as well...........anyone on here used one?
had I been on earlier i would have suggested it. Lewis Lead Remover is the way to go !!
 
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