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BUT! It's GOLD!!

Damn, never knew there was that much to the BCG, See those advertised all the time, Usually all they say is MPI inspected and properly staked!

Unless someone is building a gun, never saw the reason to replace one just cause it looked cool.
Has some space age finish or something.
 

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I guess the big question is if someone wants to buy a BCG how to tell which ones are good or not??

Lots of You Tubers out there but do they really know??
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I guess the big question is if someone wants to buy a BCG how to tell which ones are good or not??
For 99% off folks including myself the answer is they can't independently check. Best to buy a BCG from a company with a well established reputation for quality control.

The BCG is the heart of an AR. I keep a spare on hand. Yes it's a $180, and yes I could buy from Palmetto for $69 that would probably be in spec and probably work fine. No thanks.

Vehicle Automotive design Airplane Aviation Aerospace manufacturer




 

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Yep it was like years ago shopping got s AR, All the gun stores ninjas would say get a Colt, Then it was Daniel Defense

My first AR was a SW, We put it side by side with the colt. Every proof mark was the same, they were identical. All mass produced parts. Tinker Toys for Big Boys.

Now there are so many out there with "cool names" If I get another Ad for "Foxtrot Mike" I am gonna scream!:p
 

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Recommend not to assume. Get a Go/NoGo gauge set.
Here's a question I have never been able to get a definitive expert answer to:

If you are building an AR in which you will regularly use both .223 and 5.56 ammo... which set (or sets) of Go/No-Go gauges should you buy? .223 only? 5.56 only? Or do you need to buy both sets... .223 and 5.56? :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No difference for headspace.

This is a brief but good article for those curious about the subject.

 

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Well, I read the article twice and watched the video twice. Both were interesting and informative. But I am still confused in regard to my very specific question about which gauges to buy:

If you are building an AR in which you will regularly use both .223 and 5.56 ammo... which set (or sets) of Go/No-Go gauges should you buy? .223 only? 5.56 only? Or do you need to buy both sets... .223 and 5.56?
If anyone knows for absolute certain from personal AR building experience what is best to do, please let me know. :) Thanks!
 

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To make things simple... if you have a barrel marked 5.56 use 5.56 gages. You will be able to safely shoot both 5.56 and .223 ammo.
Thank you. (y) I'll check the markings. I can't imagine that I would have bought a .223-only upper or barrel, but who knows. :unsure: It was a while back that I bought them.

5.56 gauges it is! :)
 

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Informative video, and a good lesson why to avoid tatcticool crap.

Sharps Reliable Bolt but suggest a JP one piece gas ring
I have a M16 carrier Nickle Boron coated and a POA Roller Cam kit and have SSA-E trigger I use a Titanium Firing Pin. This Colt M4 is really smooth shooting along with the Super 42 Spring and H Buffer. I installed a Surefire Warcomp muzzle brake on it ………sweet carbine.
 

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Well, I read the article twice and watched the video twice. Both were interesting and informative. But I am still confused in regard to my very specific question about which gauges to buy:



If anyone knows for absolute certain from personal AR building experience what is best to do, please let me know. :) Thanks!
Is your barrel stamped 5.56 toward the muzzle ?
 
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