[Charlie]

I really like 3" barrels and would love to have a .357 or even a .44 with a 3" (+ or - a little). But all I see for sale seem to be quite a bit more expensive. At this time I'm not interested in purchasing a newer version with the lock. I'm considering buying a 586 or something similar with a longer barrel and finding a 3" barrel to replace it. Is this strictly a gunsmith operation or could an individual with the proper tools and some bit of handyness do this swap? And where would one find the shorter barrel? I'm just toying with the ideal and trying to decide which would be the best direction to go. Any suggestions or recommendations would be appreciated.

 

[Hunter]

I am sure others will be able to give you more detailed info, but if you have the proper tools you should be able to do it. I would use a barrel wrench and don't try the old vise and dowel method. A twisted frame would not be good.

As far as a new barrel, put a WTB add here in the classifieds and see who might have one. You can also check the online auction sites like Gunbroker.

 

[Charlie]

Thanks for the reply. I always try to use the proper tools and jigs, etc. (currently doing a custom cabinet remodel job) as I know and respect the value of thoses tools and fixtures. I guess I'll first have to find well used (read: reasonably priced) revolver then look around for barrels. There are several 586s and 686s for sale on gunbroker and when I get into town I check the pawn shops. I guess one could cut down a longer barrel and get the muzzle trimmed, etc. Wonder how that would interfere with the re-installation of the front sight? Thanks again for the response.

 

[c pierce]

Charlie If your minds up, I would have the barrel cut to the length you want. A good gunsmith would be a good choice. The barrel would have to be crowned and the sight installed.

 

[Charlie]

I'm open for anything. I just want to end up with a shooter (most likely a .357 L frame if possible) that I wouldn't mind working on. Thanks for the ideas.

 

[ladder13]

Perhaps you can buy a brand new barrel from Brownells or the factory?

 

[Charlie]

Perhaps you can buy a brand new barrel from Brownells or the factory?

Sorry for the late reply. I forgot to click the reply notification thingy when I posted here.
I called S&W a few (3 to 5?) years ago to inquire about a short barrel for a 629 I had and was kinda' rudely told, "...........they don't cut barrels and they don't have any 3" in stock and don't expect any....!" That pretty much let the air outta' my bag about a short barrel for a while. But I'm back to looking again. Thanks for all the input.

 

[Keith44Spl]

Charlie,

Those 3" revolvers are handy.
I wanted a fix sighted N frame .44Spl., so...

Built from a 38-44 HD

Su Amigo,
Dave

 

[Sebago Son]

I would suggest you start with a 686, not a 586. Stainless can easily be polished after rework without reblueing....

Another thing. Removing / Reinstalling "Crush Fit" (non-pinned) barrels can be tricky.... I saw a re-barreled 586 ker-splode recently after touching off a moderately high-pressure round. The top half of the frame's barrel ring peeled off the barrel threads and then took the top strap with it.

In the autopsy carbon and bullet lube was found in the cracks on the barrel ring, and the conclusion was made that the frame ring was cracked prior to shooting, probably during the re-barreling process.

I would suggest that you send the gun to someone who knows just what they are doing.... I'd use your original barrel, cut it to the length you desire, replace the front sight with an SDM Ramp and Blade and then have it reinstalled properly. Before I shot the returned revolver, I'd have the frame Die Checked for cracks in the breech / frame ring area....

Holsters of the exact fit can be a challenge to find for odd barrel lengths.

Just my thoughts....

Drew

 

[Charlie]

I would suggest you start with a 686, not a 586. Stainless can easily be polished after rework without reblueing....

Another thing. Removing / Reinstalling "Crush Fit" (non-pinned) barrels can be tricky.... I saw a re-barreled 586 ker-splode recently after touching off a moderately high-pressure round. The top half of the frame's barrel ring peeled off the barrel threads and then took the top strap with it.

In the autopsy carbon and bullet lube was found in the cracks on the barrel ring, and the conclusion was made that the frame ring was cracked prior to shooting, probably during the re-barreling process.

I would suggest that you send the gun to someone who knows just what they are doing.... I'd use your original barrel, cut it to the length you desire, replace the front sight with an SDM Ramp and Blade and then have it reinstalled properly. Before I shot the returned revolver, I'd have the frame Die Checked for cracks in the breech / frame ring area....

Holsters of the exact fit can be a challenge to find for odd barrel lengths.

Just my thoughts....

Drew

Thanks for the input. I agree the 686 would be easier being stainless. I've got a deal working on a 4 inch as we speak (a friend who wants a semi-auto). I would absolutely take it to a "qualified" gunsmith for shortening as I very well know my limitations.