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Discussion Starter #1
Are 686 no dash 6" barrel have screw in barrels? Did S&W apply some sort of cement on threads prior to assembly? There is a reason I am asking
 

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The barrel on a 686 is screwed into the frame with what is/was called crush fit threads. I believe it is a one shot deal and if they miss, new barrel gim. Older barrel were screwed into the frame and locked in place with a pin. Easy to change.

Planning on changing a barrel?

Kevin
 

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I have never heard of them using any kind of thread locker. Like Kevin said, the 686 has a what they call a crush fit barrel
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It may be an optical illusion but it looks like the lug under the barrel is not in vertical alignment with the barrel when viewed from the front with revolver in an upright position. My 686 shoots consistent LEFT (like 4" @ 30') no matter ammo and my adjustable rear sight is adjusted as far as it can go to compensate for that. My bore sight confirms that. And I am adjusting my sight blade in the correct direction. Bore is perfect as is the entire gun. No bulges in barrel, nothing obvious! Locks up super tight, cylinder to barrel space is in spec.
 

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There really is no such thing as a "Crush fit". It's a simple description, to describe an even easier process.. It's a term that's used to describe properly torquing the barrel to the frame. When assembled the torque is what holds the barrel to the frame. No threads are "Crushed" in the process.

Regards,
Gearchecker
 
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It may be an optical illusion but it looks like the lug under the barrel is not in vertical alignment with the barrel when viewed from the front with revolver in an upright position. My 686 shoots consistent LEFT (like 4" @ 30') no matter ammo and my adjustable rear sight is adjusted as far as it can go to compensate for that. My cylinder to barrel space is in spec.


It's possible the barrel is slightly canted. Correcting it means the barrel must be removed, the shoulder turned down & reinstalled The barrel/cylinder gap & front lock would also have to be corrected. Another alternative is installing a shim between barrel & frame, the front lock & B/C gap would still need adjusting. I doubt a return to the factory would help, they'd just return it w/ a note it's in spec.... a custom gunsmith would be needed (not me, I'm retired).
 

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I bought a brand new 686 directly from S&W a few years ago (under their instructor's program) and it came with a slightly canted barrel. I expect it was over tightened and not corrected. The angle is very slight, but it is visible.
 

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I had a 8 3/8” barrel installed on a model 14 by a master gunsmith. He remachined the forcing cone etc. when he “torqued” the barrel on, it wound up just slightly canted. Not much but just enough to notice. Before he reworked it to be perfect, he told me to try it. Shoots HBWC to POA perfectly with sights centered and with the right shooter will produce 1” groups at 25 yards all day long. We left it alone!
 

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I dont understand how the barrel can be misaligned with the underlug, they are 1 piece. The whole barrel and underlug assembly could be canted
 

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I dont understand how the barrel can be misaligned with the underlug, they are 1 piece. The whole barrel and underlug assembly could be canted
What I gathered from that post was that with the frame vertically oriented, a vertical line from the center of the underlug would not pass through the center of the bore, because the underlug is shifted to one side
 
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