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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was shooting Remi Golden Bullets through my 617 today. In the past, sometimes when I pull the trigger almost to breaking, but hold it there for a few, sometimes the gun will lock up and I can't finish the trigger pull. And then it is really hard to release the cylinder. I have had this happen in the past. But today it happened a few times and I was wondering what was going on? Today I shot 50 rounds and it was starting to be very hard to push the extractor to get the bullets out. But it may have been attributed to the shells pictured below? What are your thoughts? Has anyone experienced this before? It was the locking up part that has me frazzled. The extractor part I think is due to dirty cheap ammo. But I am new to this and I'm not really sure. Any thought are appreciated. For note, the bottom picture are the left two shells in the first picture.

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You have something seriously wrong going on here. The only one that I have ever encounter is the brass where the rim is blown out. I have never seen folded over brass and I have shot 100's of thousands of rounds thru semi-autos in my life. (yea, i'm old) Golden bullet isn't the greatest ammo, but wow.

You need to have some one look at what's going on.
 

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Never see that happen before. Take the revolver to a good gunsmith to get checked out/repaired.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks gents. I appreciate the feedback. I will also be calling S&W Monday am. I bought the gun brand new in February. Someone on the rimfire forum mentioned oversized chambers. But I have never touched the gun that way. Totally stock. Will not fire this again until looked at by a pro.
 

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S&W should e-mail you with a pre-paid mailer that you can ship the gun with. With the shipping label you will need to take the package to the shippers main terminal (UPS and FedEx stores can not accept guns for shipping) and let them know there is a gun being shipped, and that it's pre-paid by the manufacturer. There are no extra requirements, and nothing should be required out of pocket from you to get it shipped out.
The gun is under a full warranty so getting it repaired should be on their dime. Oversized cylinder bore holes are a manufacturing defect, and there is nothing you could have done to cause that condition. When you send them the gun, send a couple of the damaged casings with it in an envelope, and note on the envelope that these were discovered when you noticed the malfunctions. Because S&W is the manufacturer, if you live in a free state, they will be allowed to send your gun back to you directly, with no additional need to go thru an FFL and background check to get it back in your hands.
S&W needs to be shown the problems sometimes, and giving them a couple of spent casing will be good for strengthening your claim for the needed repairs.

Regards,
Gregory
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
S&W should e-mail you with a pre-paid mailer that you can ship the gun with. With the shipping label you will need to take the package to the shippers main terminal (UPS and FedEx stores can not accept guns for shipping) and let them know there is a gun being shipped, and that it's pre-paid by the manufacturer. There are no extra requirements, and nothing should be required out of pocket from you to get it shipped out.
The gun is under a full warranty so getting it repaired should be on their dime. Oversized cylinder bore holes are a manufacturing defect, and there is nothing you could have done to cause that condition. When you send them the gun, send a couple of the damaged casings with it in an envelope, and note on the envelope that these were discovered when you noticed the malfunctions. Because S&W is the manufacturer, if you live in a free state, they will be allowed to send your gun back to you directly, with no additional need to go thru an FFL and background check to get it back in your hands.
S&W needs to be shown the problems sometimes, and giving them a couple of spent casing will be good for strengthening your claim for the needed repairs.

Regards,
Gregory
Gregory, thank you. I will follow your advice and do just that. I appreciate you reaching out.
 

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Wow that’s crazy. I can see the torn, rim blowout and top blowout being related to ammo. I can’t figure out how an explosive force outward can collapse a case that is in a revolver cyl? Could it be that the damage in some of the cases came only from extraction and other damage from weak cases?

I would try some other better ammo first.
 
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Either the timing is so off that the bullets can't make it out of the cylinder and the pressure goes back into the cases, the bore is blocked or something exceptional with the shape of the chambers is happening. The last seems least likely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK guys, I got my 617 back today. It was a 5 week turn around. The 'Performed Service' listed on the revolver repair order were 1. evaluate/repair 2. cut forcing cone 3. repair yoke 4. repair bolt. That's pretty much it. I have yet to shoot it again but fingers crossed no more issues. Do any of you have any comments as to why you think they performed items 2,3, and 4 with the particular problem I was having? I'd love to hear your thoughts. Thanks guys.
 

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I haven’t a clue. Hopefully one of our gunsmiths can explain it.
 

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I have had case separations with the Rem Golden Bullets.

I only shot one cylinder in my K 22. (did not want to blow up my K 22!)

Significantly more recoil than either the CCI Standard Velocity or the Federal 36gr "bulk pak" ammo...

 
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It sounds like the forcing cone was on the narrow side, the yoke was bent & locking bolt undersize. The last 2 means the timing was way off.
I was hoping you were around. 😊
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Here's an update Gents...Took the gun out and was on my 7th cylinder. So I put 60 rounds (Remi Golden Bullets) through it after the repair. After round #68 the gun jammed. I could not pull the trigger. I was unable to pull the hammer back any farther than about 1/2 centimeter. The cylinder was completely locked up and I could not open it. The cylinder release latch moved freely in both direction but did not allow the cylinder to open. After fiddling with it for about 2 minutes, unbeknowst to me, the cylinder released and opened. There were 2 unused rounds. Take a look at the picture below. This is what I found. Needless to say, the gun is going back to S&W. Still scratching my head on this one...

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I am trying to imagine what could cause a cartridge to collapse like that.

I remember once years ago seeing a cylinder that was cut for a different number of chambers than it was fluted for. I wonder if this one could be indexed for a different number of chambers than it was drilled for.

Does each chamber properly center and line up with the barrel when indexed by the hand in the action?

Are there the same number of flutes in the cylinder as chambers in the cylinder?

Did each cartridge discharge, sound and feel correct as you fired it, and hit the target?
 
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