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.38 Spl M&P Hand Ejector - date of manufacture, approximate value, and some comments

566 Views 12 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  JoeTucker
6
I found this revolver at my local gunsmith's in a collection of guns he bought. He wanted $500 for it. I traded him a beat up Colt Woodsman Match Target pistol made in 1948-1949 for it. I never liked the Woodsman (which I acquired in 2007 for $250) but always wanted a .38 Spl S&W M&P. My wife said I had to get rid of a gun if I acquired a new one and the Woodsman was the easiest to get rid of. Most of my other handguns are K & N frame S&W revolvers.

The M&P revolver looked almost like new. It has a 5 in. barrel and appeared to have been well taken care of and shot very little. There was almost no ring around the cylinder. (Now a cylinder ring is beginning to develop as I shoot it.) Some photos are attached.

The Serial No. is 221566. A list of S&W M&P serial nos. on the Internet suggests it was made ca. 1914-1915. Does anyone have a better date of manufacture?

Also - does anyone have any idea what is is actually worth?

In several range trips, I have fired a total of 463 rounds in it. All were light .38 Spl reloads - 158 gr SWC lead bullets with 2.8 gr Bullseye, 3.4 gr HP-38, maximum 4.0 gr Unique. I don't plan to use any heavier reloads or any jacketed bullets in view of the revolver's age. It shoots very well - slightly stiff single action (probably because it hasn't been shot much) but very smooth double action. Accuracy is great as long as I hold well. I have come difficulty holding this small, light revolver consistently as it is much smaller and lighter than the M19, 6 in. barrel, which I've been shooting a lot for the past 38 years. I'm enjoying playing with the M&P!



Revolver Air gun Grey Wood Gun barrel
Car alarm Peripheral Input device Guitar accessory Automotive tire
Revolver Air gun Wood Gun barrel Trigger
Revolver Air gun Grey Wood Gun barrel
Car alarm Peripheral Input device Guitar accessory Automotive tire
Revolver Air gun Wood Gun barrel Trigger
9-5, 6 in. barrel, which I have been shooting for the past 38 years. I'm working at getting better with the M&P.

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Serial number is C221566. The letter is part of the serial number. I don't track C prefixes too closely but yours is probably from 1951. Looks to be in nice shape. Around 1958/59 it will become a Model 10.

The closest I have to yours is s/n C155209. It shipped in 5/1950.

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By the way yours looks to be a nice one.
JVH looks like your model 10 may have been re-finished. The hammer and trigger do not look original.
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JVH looks like your model 10 may have been re-finished. The hammer and trigger do not look original.
That is how it looks to me also. The S&W Trademark stamp on the side plate normally has slightly raised edges. Those get flattened down when the side plate is polished before refinishing. There are some signs of that in the 4-line address, one can see that if you click on and enlarge the pic to its original size. The edges of the side plate are slightly rounded and turn down, and so are the edges of the screw holes.

It is not a bad job though, the cylinder flutes look nice, so does the trigger guard. I would be happy to have it.

The grips look really nice, it would be interesting to find out if they are stamped with the serial number of the gun (inside the right grip panel). The grips may be later manufacture than the gun, but there is some overlap.
Thanks for all the info. I didn't realize that the C was part of the Serial No. You guys are really experts on the fine points of these revolvers. If it was refinished, they appear to have a good job of it. I tried to get the grip panels off but was unsuccessful. The brass(?) screw is extremely tight and I don't want to mess it up by forcing it. (I do have the correct gunsmith-type screwdrivers.)

I am not a collector. I acquired this revolver to shoot it, as with all the rest of my S&W revolvers. Refinishing is not an issue with me as long as the revolver shoots well and I enjoy shooting it. So far, this is indeed the case.
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I tried to get the grip panels off but was unsuccessful. The brass(?) screw is extremely tight and I don't want to mess it up by forcing it.
Put a drop of penetrating oil on the nut end and let it sit for a couple of days. Then try to unscrew it. You really need to get under the grips to make sure it is not rusting.
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Thanks. I'll try this.
When you get that grip screw to turn, back it off just a few turns. Then press on the screw head to get the opposite side to pop loose. Don’t force it. Hopefully, it will pop loose without too much effort. Finish removing the screw and press that side out from the inside once the opposite side is out of the way. If you try to pry them loose you’ll damage the wood for sure. If that isn’t working for you, get back to us.
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Nice find, glad you’re enjoying it. They were made to be shot, I try and rotate mine so they all get some range time.
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Wiregrassguy and 1av8r,

I followed your suggestions.

It took several applications of penetrating oil over the past few days, but the screw finally came loose today. There is no rust under the grips. The right grip has Serial No. 428935, much higher than the revolver Serial No. C 221566. This presumably means that the original grips were replaced. Some photos are attached.

Thanks for your help.

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The grips date from about 1959, so those were replaced, but they are period-correct.
They are very nice, and sell for anywhere from $75~$100+ on ebay.
It's common to find non matching grips on refinished guns. If the gun was worn enough to warrant refinishing, the grips were probably pretty worn as well.
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