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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I',m a newbee.

A friend has a 38 special, problem is it has several different serial numbers, I would imagine it has been pieced together from other weapons but am not sure. I do know the barrel has been replaced due to ammo splitting the barrel and backing up. (How his son did not loose his hand I have no idea!) Anyway just checking to see if my therory is correct.

Also any idea of value he wants to sell it but has no idea, nor do I as to what to ask for it.

The serial number under the cylinder in the frame is 52912
The serial number under the barrel is 625783
The serial number on the cylinder is 421763
The serial number under the butt is 421763
 

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The correct serial number is 421763. Any other numbers are of no consequence as they are numbers used during the build process. Are there any letters with the serial number, preceding the numbers? An alpha character if it exists, will help furter identify the date of mfg.
The only numbers that matters is on the bottom of the butt.
So we know that the cylinder and frame match. It's good news for your friend after all. It's still matching. You might want to take off the stocks [grips] and see if the serial number is written on one of them as well. If it is they're the original grips too.
I can't look up the correct model number from here, but I'm sure somebody else will chime in shortly to let you know exactly what revolver model your friend has.
Any pictures you could post will help identify it better as well.

Regards,
Gearchecker
 

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The number under the cylinder you describe is a factory assembly number used to keep track of parts as they are made and assembled at the factory and is not a serial number.The serial number on the bottom of the butt you describe is the serial number.
It sounds like he got a squib load where the charge in the bullet case wasnt enough to push the bullet out the barrel. He then fired another bullet that had to push the prior stuck bullet on out causeing to much pressure and as commonly happens bulged the barrel or split it.
I would make sure the barrel change was done buy a good gun smith and have it checked out by a known gun smith to make sure it wasnt a Bubba job.
The other scenerio is maybe a split forcing cone which is the entrance to the barrel right in front of the cylinder.
Having a different barrel makes the collector value void. Posting a picture showing the condition of the guns finish and grips showing if they are original and or condition reflects what you can get out of it.
 

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In that era the barrel, cylinder, ejector and butt should match (the legal i.d.); the crane, the recess on the frame and inside the side plate likewise should match (soft part assembly numbers). The cylinder and frame are mid-1920's, the barrel latter 1930's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'll try to get some pictures taken and post them.

There are no letters involved with any of the numbers.
 

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Decent looking 1920's era M&P, a few licks on the left grip, six incher. The side plate fit looks good but that shine smells of a re-blue, maybe? Good looking piece.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Waidman,

Thanks for the input, I will pass it along.

I have told him several times about prices, but he can't grasp that a weapon is only worth what person wants to pay.pay.
 
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